I just bought a Strong Joint-Matic with a Miter gauge, a Angle attatchment (tilts so you can route a piece on a angle such as a dove tailed miter joint) a set of 5 Freud 1/2" cutters and a 1/2" dove tail bit, for $312.00. Its in brand new condition with the original manual. I haven't even turned it on yet, trying to learn more about it. Oh, it also has a Bosch router mounted on it. I watched a MLS (or whatever the letters are) video which showed them making box joints. They used a box joint router bit and raise the bit to achieve the half joint
I just got one of these off Craigs List. Came with a nice factory stand with rollers.
No manual or attachments, though. Your pictures were helpful - I see what they were thinking about attaching the featherboards.
In principle, I like the horizontal idea. It seems like it makes the router much more accessible than a vertical under-table design.
Mine is broken at the "nut" that adjusts the gate height, but looks simple enough to fix. Does really cause binding when you run a board through with the feather attached...
Let me know if you are still thinking about this machine. I think they are pretty rare based on the lack of posts on the Net.
Chris: I never used my Strong until recently, I now use it for box joints and it works perfectly. I have tried two other methods, router table with a good copy of a German guy's adjustable jig, and another pretty sophisticated jig with a lead screw I built. The Strong gives me perfect joints 1/8" & 1/4" for small boxes I make.
Well, I spent a few days fixing and outfitting the unit. Mine came with no attachments, so I converted an old miter gauge to fit the T track. Also fitted it with quick change feather boards for the T track and made an upper crossbar for same. Also, mine had a "broken" platen at the elevator screw - the noted common defect with these. I have a great fix for this problem. One piece of angle iron and two 1/4" - 20 flathead screws and - viola! better than new again.
My biggest beef about it is that the ~1" depth "loss" due to the dust collection causes bits to be too "short". That is, you essentially need 1" longer bit to get it to go all the way through the back plate. (I have not used any router tables before.) I know there are "extentions' for router bits, but they seem prone to vibration. Guess I'll try that.
I just made a drawer with a 3/8" box joint using the Joint-Matic. Very easy, quick and precise. Once I got a plan together, the cutting went really fast.
Ed, those 1/8" boxes sound fun. What do you use 'em for?
The sides of this box are laminated using walnut & teak, box joints on it. I made four small boxes to fill the inside for more interest, they are about 3/16" thick with sliding tops. I don't seem to have the problem with the cutter not ectending far enough, perhaps because the boxes don't require the length. Although the big box starts out with 1 1/4" thick sides.
We heard about your interest in finding an original Strong Tool Design Joint-Matic owner's manual. We are a business that sells original "Joint-Matic" owner's manuals, brochures, & instructional videos, & Strong Tool Design "Miter-Matics." If you would like more information, you can contact us by email: "[email protected]," or visit our website: "http://blackwatertoolcompany.com."
Blackwater Tool Company
Ii have a joint matic and discovered the same problem with a black and decker router and my craftsman router. I took off the red adjusting ring from the craftsman router that allowed me to get the adjustment I needed to use the machine. How did you solve your problem? I also considered a router extension but was concerned about run out. I have only made box joints with the machine and it works well. Let me know if you found a better solution. Larry
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