Avoid the benchtop units. You won't be happy for what you need them for. I would probably go with the Grizz. Get the longest bed you can.
Jointer advice
I'm close to needing a planer and a jointer. These are some models I am looking at:
https://www.amazon.com/Steelex-ST1010-Jointer-Mobile-Base/dp/B01HF1ETM6?SubscriptionId=AKIAIKBZ7IH7LXTW3ARA&&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B01HF1ETM6&tag=wwwbookcompar-20&ascsubtag=595ad63deba0c901a0aa6837
https://www.amazon.com/Steelex-ST10...d=1499123712&sr=8-14&keywords=steelex+jointer
http://www.cpooutlets.com/jet-70740...aner-jointer-combo/jetn707400,default,pd.html
https://www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-12-Amp-Bench-Jointer/50159089
http://www.ebay.com/itm/G0813-Grizzly-6-Jointer-with-Knock-Down-Stand-/292129688540?epid=1081717225&hash=item4404494bdc:g:AZUAAOSwIQdZJy4p
Any thoughts on these?
https://www.amazon.com/Steelex-ST1010-Jointer-Mobile-Base/dp/B01HF1ETM6?SubscriptionId=AKIAIKBZ7IH7LXTW3ARA&&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B01HF1ETM6&tag=wwwbookcompar-20&ascsubtag=595ad63deba0c901a0aa6837
https://www.amazon.com/Steelex-ST10...d=1499123712&sr=8-14&keywords=steelex+jointer
http://www.cpooutlets.com/jet-70740...aner-jointer-combo/jetn707400,default,pd.html
https://www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-12-Amp-Bench-Jointer/50159089
http://www.ebay.com/itm/G0813-Grizzly-6-Jointer-with-Knock-Down-Stand-/292129688540?epid=1081717225&hash=item4404494bdc:g:AZUAAOSwIQdZJy4p
Any thoughts on these?
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I'm interested in seeing the recommendations. I wish I knew more about them , but I'm liking the Grizzly the best.
I'd like to keep my stuff General , but am not sure what to do when the time comes .
I'd like to keep my stuff General , but am not sure what to do when the time comes .
I have the PC Benchtop and it does what I want, I used to have a floor mount,and it was good too. Have to watch moving them around they are top heavy. It all depends on what you are going to use them for. I don't have room for a floor mount anymore and they do take up substantial room.
Herb
Herb
Thanks guys, I really do like that Grizzley. I also like the 8" width of the Jet! Decisions, decisions, decisions.
Of the ones shown, the Grizz. I bought a Powermatic, another $400 I think. Long table, which is a most important feature. Total on the Griz is just shy of 4 ft, or 2 ft per side.
Quenten,
First off, what size work do you normally do? That could narrow down the size. My first jointer I got used on Craigslist, a 4 inch King Seely. I got rid of it on Craigslist after I was positive I needed something bigger. My current 6 inch jointer came from Craigslist, as the owner was moving up to something bigger..
I don't know about your neck of the woods, but jointers show up frequently on the classifieds. You might find a gem.
First off, what size work do you normally do? That could narrow down the size. My first jointer I got used on Craigslist, a 4 inch King Seely. I got rid of it on Craigslist after I was positive I needed something bigger. My current 6 inch jointer came from Craigslist, as the owner was moving up to something bigger..
I don't know about your neck of the woods, but jointers show up frequently on the classifieds. You might find a gem.
I don't do a lot of jointing as I'm just getting into this hobby. My next project is going to be building 3 cedar chests out of lumber I have sawn myself (one for the wife & each daughter). The boards range I have on hand range from 2 inches wide to 10 inches wide. They also range in thickness from 1/4 inch to 1 inch. I plan on making the sides out of 3/4 inch material and the drawers out of 1/4 inch (or what ever is best). I will be gluing them together. I want to make the lid hinged on the back & front. I will have a handle on the front such that when you lift it and fold it back, the 2 sides will come together and lean against what is behind it. It will have a top lift out tray. Below that I will have a face fram with 2 or 3 drawers that slide out. This design will eliminate having to dig through the chest to find something. Just lift the lid to have access to everything. It will look like a simple box when it is closed.
My next build will be a chest of drawers. Maybe 5 ft tall & 2 ft wide and haven't decided on the debth. I just dabble with this stuff but I'm such a meticulous guy I want to have tools that work well. Hope this helps. And thanks to all you guys for advice.
My next build will be a chest of drawers. Maybe 5 ft tall & 2 ft wide and haven't decided on the debth. I just dabble with this stuff but I'm such a meticulous guy I want to have tools that work well. Hope this helps. And thanks to all you guys for advice.
I bought the 10" version of the Jet and was extremely disappointed with it, cheaply made, and a very weak motor. I bought it used and only used it once before it went to the dump. If I were to buy a jointer today, I would find one with a spiral head. I hate dealing with the knives, it has always been an issue with me. Grizzly makes a nice jointer for its price point, and I have looked at a number of them. (I live 21 miles away from the Bellingham WA showroom), I don't think you would be disappointed.Thanks guys, I really do like that Grizzley. I also like the 8" width of the Jet! Decisions, decisions, decisions.
This is my issue Bob, as I want the helical heads . Those heads are more than most jointersI bought the 10" version of the Jet and was extremely disappointed with it, cheaply made, and a very weak motor. I bought it used and only used it once before it went to the dump. If I were to buy a jointer today, I would find one with a spiral head. I hate dealing with the knives, it has always been an issue with me. Grizzly makes a nice jointer for its price point, and I have looked at a number of them. (I live 21 miles away from the Bellingham WA showroom), I don't think you would be disappointed.
I have the JET 12" benchtop. It works well for me as I have limited space. I bolted it onto the top of my tool chest base unit so its on wheels and I can move it to one side. All the heavy tools stop it from being top heavy.
I can plane 8 ft boards all by myself. longer boards would need a helper (or table supports).
i dont have any problems with the knives. They are easy to remove and replace and I have found a shop that sharpens them and I dont even have to to go there, they travel by courier.
The really BIG issue with these is the NOISE!!! If you live close to other people you will need to time your usage when they are not in.
I can plane 8 ft boards all by myself. longer boards would need a helper (or table supports).
i dont have any problems with the knives. They are easy to remove and replace and I have found a shop that sharpens them and I dont even have to to go there, they travel by courier.
The really BIG issue with these is the NOISE!!! If you live close to other people you will need to time your usage when they are not in.
It is a tough decision. I bought my Dewalt planer in 2010, and I have no idea how much money I spent on knives but I am guessing it is well over twice what my Shelix head cost last December. After using the planer I am a convert. With my Rikon jointer I will spend hours, if not days, setting the knives. My only problem now, is how I can sneak a new jointer into the shop. Saying "Oh no honey I have always had that" will be a tough sell!>This is my issue Bob, as I want the helical heads . Those heads are more than most jointers
I have been looking at a few benchtop jointers and planers so I can use scrap wood. If I could, I would definitely go with 12" but no way to do that in my flat. LOL
I read that the Dewalts really go through the blades fast, as you were saying, Bob.
I read that the Dewalts really go through the blades fast, as you were saying, Bob.
Blade wear depends entirely on how much you put through the machine, and of course how hard the wood is.
You could plane softwoods all day, but try a few board feet of bubinga and those blades will start to dull quickly.
And if youre using scrap wood, just one staple or nail will destroy them.
I only use mine for hobby usage, I dont make any furniture or large runs of planking. For me, this machine works very well.
You could plane softwoods all day, but try a few board feet of bubinga and those blades will start to dull quickly.
And if youre using scrap wood, just one staple or nail will destroy them.
I only use mine for hobby usage, I dont make any furniture or large runs of planking. For me, this machine works very well.
If you are willing and proficient at glue-ups, a 6" will do you just fine for the occasional panel work...
purchase your wood accordingly when possible.
the longer the beds, the better off you'll be
be leary of spiral head cutters, they are NOT all created equal..some are just flat out bogus
I've ran 1,000's of feet of primarily sugar maple, walnut and cherry thru a Dewalt 735 and havn't changed cutters yet
wear and tear depends on several factors, type of wood, feed rate, depth of cut, amount of use, quality of equipment to start with..
ya get what you pay for isn't always true, but in my experience, its certainly a major consideration!!!!!!
routinely give your equipment a good going over!!
when using rough cut lumber, wire brush off as much of the dirt as possible (not always necessary, but when it is, its well worth the time it takes)
avoid twisted and cupped stock until you become very familiar with your equipment's limitations
there is no avoiding the NOISE...and there is no getting around it to my knowledge...so be forewarned and take the neighbors into account if need be.
LISTEN to your equipment,,,it'll tell ya everything you need to know about whats going on
most of the rough cut I work with is at least 8' long, so I need at a minimum 17' worth of work area
take into account the amount of floor space the equipment is going to take up and will require to be used safely and properly
Dust collection isn't an issue, chunk collection is! I've found that at a minimum, 4" dust collection lines are best.
For the money, Dewalts 735 is generally thought to be the best value out there is a bench top planer...I'd buy another in a heart beat..(except maybe, for a 15" floor model"
AS for a joiner..I have a Craftsman Professional 6". Not a bad joiner, not a great one either...it gets the job done. For me a quality 8" would be ideal...but sometimes ya just gotta work with whatcha got!!
purchase your wood accordingly when possible.
the longer the beds, the better off you'll be
be leary of spiral head cutters, they are NOT all created equal..some are just flat out bogus
I've ran 1,000's of feet of primarily sugar maple, walnut and cherry thru a Dewalt 735 and havn't changed cutters yet
wear and tear depends on several factors, type of wood, feed rate, depth of cut, amount of use, quality of equipment to start with..
ya get what you pay for isn't always true, but in my experience, its certainly a major consideration!!!!!!
routinely give your equipment a good going over!!
when using rough cut lumber, wire brush off as much of the dirt as possible (not always necessary, but when it is, its well worth the time it takes)
avoid twisted and cupped stock until you become very familiar with your equipment's limitations
there is no avoiding the NOISE...and there is no getting around it to my knowledge...so be forewarned and take the neighbors into account if need be.
LISTEN to your equipment,,,it'll tell ya everything you need to know about whats going on
most of the rough cut I work with is at least 8' long, so I need at a minimum 17' worth of work area
take into account the amount of floor space the equipment is going to take up and will require to be used safely and properly
Dust collection isn't an issue, chunk collection is! I've found that at a minimum, 4" dust collection lines are best.
For the money, Dewalts 735 is generally thought to be the best value out there is a bench top planer...I'd buy another in a heart beat..(except maybe, for a 15" floor model"
AS for a joiner..I have a Craftsman Professional 6". Not a bad joiner, not a great one either...it gets the job done. For me a quality 8" would be ideal...but sometimes ya just gotta work with whatcha got!!
I have a well made Taiwanese model that is 8" x 72". I plane a lot of rough lumber and the wide and long bed jointer is a must for that. I would have had issues with a 6" width a few times but I can't remember the 8" width not being enough. Someone posted a formula for how much the length of the bed limits the length you can put over it but I can't remember what that was. I would say that it was 35- 50% longer than the bed length as an educated guess and based on experience.
If you are doing a lot of lumber and especially if it's rough lumber then you need a big floor model planer. Mine is a 2 hp King Canada which is also sold as Delta, Jet, and a few other brands. It's 16" wide and will take 1/8" bites all day long. Some planers have rollers on them to make it easier to pass a board back for a second pass. But you need a second person helping you to take advantage of those. I do mine in batches where I'll run a half dozen or more boards at a time so that I'm not constantly winding the planer up and down and so that my finished size is the same for each board. So for that I set up sawhorses on one side of the planer to stack the boards on. Needless to say you need a lot of room for that.
If you are doing a lot of lumber and especially if it's rough lumber then you need a big floor model planer. Mine is a 2 hp King Canada which is also sold as Delta, Jet, and a few other brands. It's 16" wide and will take 1/8" bites all day long. Some planers have rollers on them to make it easier to pass a board back for a second pass. But you need a second person helping you to take advantage of those. I do mine in batches where I'll run a half dozen or more boards at a time so that I'm not constantly winding the planer up and down and so that my finished size is the same for each board. So for that I set up sawhorses on one side of the planer to stack the boards on. Needless to say you need a lot of room for that.
Be safe.
See my jointer inspired signature.
See my jointer inspired signature.
@DerSchuhmacher When using found wood, you have to have a good metal detector to check out every piece before you work it. You also have to use a wire brush to find and remove small stones that often get ground into the wood, particularly with pallets. Those little bits will wreck the blade of both jointer and planer, leaving a small ridge on the workpiece.
One of the important uses of a jointer is flattening pieces to glue up for a larger panel. I know bigger might be better, in my opinion, glueups of narrower pieces are less likely to warp, so I haven't needed more than a 6 inch jointer.
I can see needing something wider if you're working with rough lumber. Lots of good input here.
One of the important uses of a jointer is flattening pieces to glue up for a larger panel. I know bigger might be better, in my opinion, glueups of narrower pieces are less likely to warp, so I haven't needed more than a 6 inch jointer.
I can see needing something wider if you're working with rough lumber. Lots of good input here.
A guy near me has a used Grizzly G0656W - 8" x 72" Jointer with Mobile Base. Looks new, asking $765.00
8" x 72" Jointer with Mobile Base | Grizzly Industrial
That looks like a good machine. I have always heard used tools go for about 50%. What would you guys think would be a good offer?
8" x 72" Jointer with Mobile Base | Grizzly Industrial
That looks like a good machine. I have always heard used tools go for about 50%. What would you guys think would be a good offer?
Grizzly fan here
I have had the Grizzly G0452Z ... 6" with spiral cutterhead, for about 3 yrs. now and am very happy with it. There have been many times that I wish that it was 8" and a little longer bed, but haven't won the lottery yet!
I have had the Grizzly G0452Z ... 6" with spiral cutterhead, for about 3 yrs. now and am very happy with it. There have been many times that I wish that it was 8" and a little longer bed, but haven't won the lottery yet!
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