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Avoid the benchtop units. You won't be happy for what you need them for. I would probably go with the Grizz. Get the longest bed you can.
Posts by Cherryville Chuck
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I have a well made Taiwanese model that is 8" x 72". I plane a lot of rough lumber and the wide and long bed jointer is a must for that. I would have had issues with a 6" width a few times but I can't remember the 8" width not being enough. Someone posted a formula for how much the length of the bed limits the length you can put over it but I can't remember what that was. I would say that it was 35- 50% longer than the bed length as an educated guess and based on experience.
If you are doing a lot of lumber and especially if it's rough lumber then you need a big floor model planer. Mine is a 2 hp King Canada which is also sold as Delta, Jet, and a few other brands. It's 16" wide and will take 1/8" bites all day long. Some planers have rollers on them to make it easier to pass a board back for a second pass. But you need a second person helping you to take advantage of those. I do mine in batches where I'll run a half dozen or more boards at a time so that I'm not constantly winding the planer up and down and so that my finished size is the same for each board. So for that I set up sawhorses on one side of the planer to stack the boards on. Needless to say you need a lot of room for that.
If you are doing a lot of lumber and especially if it's rough lumber then you need a big floor model planer. Mine is a 2 hp King Canada which is also sold as Delta, Jet, and a few other brands. It's 16" wide and will take 1/8" bites all day long. Some planers have rollers on them to make it easier to pass a board back for a second pass. But you need a second person helping you to take advantage of those. I do mine in batches where I'll run a half dozen or more boards at a time so that I'm not constantly winding the planer up and down and so that my finished size is the same for each board. So for that I set up sawhorses on one side of the planer to stack the boards on. Needless to say you need a lot of room for that.
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Unless there is something really seriously wrong with it I would snap that one up. Mine was $1200 about 20 years ago.
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16,386 Posts
Don't take the tables off. Put it on length ways and tie from down to all four corners of the trailer. Make sure it won't move. Next alternative I would say is to level the tables, take the fence off, and load it on upside down as long as the motor is well supported (or take the motor off too).
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That machine looks to be in great shape. Nice score. One thing I have to do with mine is run dust collection to it to keep it from plugging up the chute. It doesn't take long forme to plug mine without using the DC and it is a bit of a pain to unplug it when it happens. The chips pack in pretty tight so it takes a little effort to get them out. Never use a belt sander to get rust off. It's hand work only. A power tool will take too much off to fast and too unevenly. I don't know if you will ever get rid of that ring from the glass. I have one on my TS from a kid that was in my shop with my son and he sat a cold beer down on it. Although there is no loose scale, the ring is clearly visible since 15 years ago. As long as it isn't rough to the touch it shouldn't affect the operation of the jointer. Lee Valley used to sell a product called Waxilit for making the tables more slick. I think it's still available but maybe not from LV. Whatever you use has to be silicone free.
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