[Cherryville Chuck]

That machine looks to be in great shape. Nice score. One thing I have to do with mine is run dust collection to it to keep it from plugging up the chute. It doesn't take long forme to plug mine without using the DC and it is a bit of a pain to unplug it when it happens. The chips pack in pretty tight so it takes a little effort to get them out. Never use a belt sander to get rust off. It's hand work only. A power tool will take too much off to fast and too unevenly. I don't know if you will ever get rid of that ring from the glass. I have one on my TS from a kid that was in my shop with my son and he sat a cold beer down on it. Although there is no loose scale, the ring is clearly visible since 15 years ago. As long as it isn't rough to the touch it shouldn't affect the operation of the jointer. Lee Valley used to sell a product called Waxilit for making the tables more slick. I think it's still available but maybe not from LV. Whatever you use has to be silicone free.

 

[DesertRatTom]

1/8th is too large a cut. 1/16th is more manageable. It's not about taking off a lot of wood, its about taking off as little as necessary. You are the one paying for that sawdust. Looks like a nice machine.

 

[DaninVan]

Quenten; let us know how you like the Autosol...before/after picture maybe? These annoying oxidation blemishes on cast iron are a constant p.i.t.a. for pretty much all of us.
My own experience with the Autosol is that I get a long period of protection after I do the whole surface with it. The application and polishing rags usually come up black after a polishing session...this would suggest that the oxide build up is there even it's not visible yet.

 

[Tonto1]

Do you just order in online from the link you posted, or is there a better source?

And yes, I think this was a great score!

And yes, 1/8th is a lot, I only did it to see how it loaded the motor. It acted like it was no big deal. The board was a Cedar 1' X 8" that I had cut about 4 months ago. Been drying in my carport.

 

[197761]

After learning about jointers and planers, I think they should be considered the first tools to have in your shop, rather than a band saw. This way you can use all kinds of wood that needs some TLC.

 

[Tonto1]

I can see that. I'll post a pic of the Cedar I plain'd yesterday. It is absolutely gorgeous.

I think I'll try some Navel Jelly on the rust. That should get it all. That is what I've always used on rust in the past & it works great. I'll have to try in on a small spot to make sure it doesn't discolor the steel.

I will start a build thread on the Cedar Chests when I get started. Now that I can get a straight edge, I will be able to start the glue-ups.
You guys will have to help me out. My thoughts are to cut the boards to just a bit over length, glue and clamp them (laid on parchment/wax paper so they don't stick to my table. Then run them through the jointer again to cut them down to size and create a flat end. I'm just guessing...anybody have a link to proper gluing? Do I glue the panels (sides/back/front/bottom) to each other just like the individual boards (to create the box). Remember I am planning to face frame the front for drawers. All advice is welcome.

 

[DaninVan]

Quenten; it's available almost everywhere. Try the auto parts guys, or a big hardware chain, or maybe Amazon?
Up here in Canada...Amazon.ca has it but I don't like the price!
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/offer-list...e&ie=UTF8&qid=1499715041&sr=1-1&condition=new
30% price difference between two suppliers?! Ouch.

Make sure you get the correct one; they make a number of different formulations. Keep in mind that it doesn't just remove the oxidation (rust) but it also polishes and leaves a very effective protective barrier.

 

[DaninVan]

You know what also works? That cleaner/polish that you use on ceramic cook-tops, applied with the little scrubby pads you use to apply the ceramic cleaner.

 

[TwoSkies57]

The harder the wood, the shallower the cuts! The deeper you go, the more you tend to exaggerate the potential for tearout. Very shallow passes on figured woods in particular. Pay attention to grain direction especially on boards with switchback (grain that runs in both directions on the same board)

wood whisperer isn't everyone's cup of tea, but this is a good video on using a joiner

 

[DaninVan]

"...wood whisperer isn't everyone's cup of tea,..."
-Bill

Given a choice of him or George Clooney................................

 

[TwoSkies57]

"...wood whisperer isn't everyone's cup of tea,..."
-Bill

Given a choice of him or George Clooney................................

I'll take Spaggy any ole day...I'd like to see him and David Marks collaborate on something.

 

[Mike]

My HF jointer seems to attract rain from a clear blue sky. Here are the before and after photos from a treatment with Trend Tool and Bit cleaner. I sprayed it on, let it sit a couple minutes and then scoured it with ScotchBrite pads. Works for me; a bottle runs about $12 and is available from multiple sources online and in Woodcraft stores.

 

[old coasty]

Great to see you back Mike. Missed your evaluations and information.

 

[DaninVan]

What Bob said, Mike!

 

[Tonto1]

Thanks Mike, that looks great!

 

[RainMan 2.0]

Great to see you back Mike. Missed your evaluations and information.

Same here , as I was getting a little worried after not seeing Mike posting for a while ,
and assumed the worst, that I scared him away

 

[DaninVan]

That's still on the table, Rick...