snipe it is. You need to raise the out-feed table the same height as the cutter head. check your user manual for directions, if you don't have one most manufactures have them available for download on their websites.
this might help some read this.
http://www.newwoodworker.com/jntrprobfxs.html

 

Yes Terry this is indeed snipe and is where the manual comes in. the feed rollers have to be accurately adjusted and the procedure is different for each brand. Additionally, when feeding in the board, slightly raise the far end, and do the same when it leaves the machine, slightly raise the end. Because of the above, I don't get snipe at all. This subject has, in the past been discussed at length, a forum search may prove helpful.

 

That's a good one Rick, the best one I have seen

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uote=drasbell;164389]snipe it is. You need to raise the out-feed table the same height as the cutter head. check your user manual for directions, if you don't have one most manufactures have them available for download on their websites.
this might help some read this.
Jointer Problems, Causes & Fixes - NewWoodworker.com LLC[/quote]

 

The snipe appears to be on the edge, so I assume you were jointing the stock, and not planing it. That makes a difference.
Is it the leading edge, or trailing?

 

Terry...

As you finish running your board across the jointer, try focusing the downward pressure from your trailing hand a little further forward on the board. I've had pretty good luck doing it this way both edge jointing and flattening out the board. I generally go 12 to 18 inches.

Need to make sure the jointers infeed and outfeed tables are perfectly parallel to one another...

Read the article Rick posted.... very good stuff...

 

Many thanks for the replies.
I rarely face plane anything but, when I do, I still get the snipe. It only occurs on the trailing end. It seems exactly to match the problem in the link Rick supplied.
I have already tried shifting pressure to the outfeed table well before the end reaches the cutters to no avail. Ditto for raising the end as it leaves the infeed table.

This has been happening for a long time . . . predates the replacement of the knives which I did last year. I had hoped to be able to avoid spending money on alignment aids such as pictured in the attached image. I recall spending some time aligning the knives with a rafter square. I thought I had done a good job but, quite apparently, I did not get it right. The manual is not a problem. I have it. Can't say as I much enjoy fooling about with the cutter head though . . . the wedges and lifter screws. Anyone had success in aligning knives using only a rafter square as a straight edge rather than a jig as pictured? Or are they essential to this task?

 

Well, in about one hour I eliminated snipe.
Now, of course, I have taper.:yes2:

I would like to try a magnetic device such as given in the Finewoodworking link: Jointer Knife-Setting Jig - Fine Woodworking Video

Now I see the beauty of an adjustable outfeed table. Sure wish I had one.

 

I most always get taper. Seems to be a part of jointing. I'll take that out with the planer. It can be reduced by jointing the ends (high points) before making a full length cut.
What jointer do you have? I don't recall any without an adjustable outfeed table.

 

What jointer do you have? I don't recall any without an adjustable outfeed table.

You don't spend enough time slumming.
It carries the Sears Craftman name but I understand it is a design marketed under many brands. Says "Made in the USA." Image of it is attached.

I thought it a wondrous machine when I bought it new back in 1976 and, in truth, it has served me rather well although I know now there are far better machines than this old, a little rusty, dingy gray beast. The better ones are bright, with slick, shiny beds and green bodies.

 

Considering the depth of the snipe, when your cutter is higher than the outfeed bed you may see a gap between the stock and out feed bed as the stock passes onto it.

Start a run and then stop about 5" into the cut, Keep the stock in position and shut the motor off. Even when it's slight enough not to see it you may be able to slip one or more sheets of paper between them.

Another problem could be that the infeed and out feed beds are mis-aligned, (concave/convex) not much you can do about that, I have a 6" Reliant jointer, (late 80s from Wood Workers Warehouse,) The outfeed bed drops from the cutter to the end nearly 4 sheets of writing paper. I was able to adjust some of it out by jamming step flashing between the outfeed ramp and outfeed bed.

It could be one or more knives set too high, (or maybe slipped).

 

Terry:
I had this problem myself and like you I tried many different things. I blamed my technique, I blamed the jointer maybe the bed was too short. It was very frustrating.
I read somewhere I don't recall where that wood compresses as it passes over the cutter and that you should set your cutters from 5 to 8 thou. above the table. This is not my theory. I tried this and have had no snipe since. I have a magnetic dial indicator I use for setting my cutters. It may be just dumb luck on my part but it worked.
Wayne

 

The snipe hunt...
I blamed it on the troll that lives in my shop.

 

Things are not going well. I did not appreciate that the taper I introduced when I eliminated the snipe is actually far worse than what I had initially. The jointer is next to useless as it is. I will have to play with it some more. It appears that the infeed table is NOT parallel to the outfeed table . . . it slopes down into the cutters. Not sure if this is adjustable or not.

Certainly the snipe I had is far preferable to the taper I have now.:cray:

 

Try setting your blades with a dial indicator and shoot for about .002 to .003" above the outfeed table. Or, since you're getting a taper now, you could "Joint" the blades. If you have never done it before, I tell you now there is a little pucker factor. For added safety I clamp a board on the infeed table about an inch in front of the table opening. Do it the first time with two wraps of typing paper around the stone and the second time with just one wrap. This should get you about .003 above the outfeed table. If it still has taper, make a pass without paper. After jointing you can stone a little relief on the trailing edge of the "shiney" line you have produced. A coat of Dykem layout dye or felt tip pen before jointing will help visability issues.

 

Hi Terry,

There is a very good article on this in Fine Woodworking Magazine by John White. I have used this technique and it works very well. Here is the link, but you probably have to be a member to read it. The article was in issue #142. I hope it helps.

Jointer Tune-up - Fine Woodworking PDF Cover Page