The bit will pull the wood away from the fence, I don't think you want to do that......
The featherboards will be the "fence" in your drawing and a springier fence is not going to give you a nice finish. Sorry........ To see what I'm talking about take a router bit in your hand, held below like it would be in the router then take a scrap of wood and put it against the edge of the bit, twist the bit..... Which direction did the wood move? It moved away from your pictured fence, towards the feather boards. You always want the bit to move the wood into the fence/bearing/???.ktritz said:Hmm, would the featherboards and taking small cuts prevent this?
Otherwise I suppose a piece clamped to a sled riding along a miter slot or the table edge would do the same thing.
Thanks for your reply.
Trapping the piece between the router bit and the fence is NOT a safe practice. In my opinion you size your material on the table saw not the router.ktritz said:I know it's fairly common practice to use a jointing fence on a router table with a slight offset on the outfeed side. However, this just guarantees as straight edge, not a parallel edge. Also, you are limited in thickness to the height of the cutting bit.
Is there a reason why you can't use a fence on the left side of the router?
This would let you get the sides parallel, allow stock up to twice the thickness of the cutter bit (by flipping the stock over), and let you control the final width of the stock.
I've attached an image showing what I mean. Is there a problem with kickback? Given the direction of rotation, I don't think you have to worry about it grabbing and throwing your piece.
I looked at the sled idea, you still have two problems, one the bit is still pulling the wood away from the pins and second the force in the other direction pushs in to the area with the clamps which might or might not be 90deg to the first cut........ktritz said:I don't have a table saw. I have a relatively small garage shop with a CSMS, a jigsaw, and a router. I'm in the process of building the table for the router.
Kevin,ktritz said:The pins are there just to index the width of the piece. The toggle hold-down clamps are designed to keep the piece from being pulled by the bit. If you think the clamps will not be able to do this, then I agree that this isn't a good solution either.
I have a pretty decent jigsaw, just picked up the new Bosch barrel-grip, and it did a very good job of squaring the MDF for my router table, so this may very well be the way to go. I wonder if it would be feasible to design a table-mount for the jigsaw and turn it in to a poor man's bandsaw.
Be all means, get in to the safety part. I would much rather learn from you guys here than by losing a body part or two.
Thanks for your advice.