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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good Evening All,

I just bought a router for the first time and have a project for it, but now I just need to find the right bit.

I have 3/4in Bruce Hardwoods throughout my house, I need to install one last room to be finished with this project. However, I have hit a little snag. Why I did one of the bedrooms, I got very lucky and the grooved ends were all lined up and none were cut, so I was able to use a slip tongue instead of a transition slip from the hallway into the bedroom. On the other end of the hallway, where the current project bedroom is, the boards are all cut, so I need to route a groove to accept a slip tongue. The issue that I am finding is that all of the T&G bits are made for use on a table-mounted router and are not meant to be used handheld with the flooring already installed.

Does anyone have any experience with this or advice as to what bit to use?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
maybe a 1/4" slot cutter w/bearing? not sure what your slot size needs are, but you can make multiple passes or trim down your tongue...
that's a great idea. It needs to be a 1/4 tall x 1/4 deep so that may work. My only concern is the bearing, I would have to find one that rides on the top rather than sticking out from the bottom since the flooring is installed and I only have 1/4 from the bottom of the cut to the sub floor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Table is far and away the best choice for T&G. If you do it hand held, it's really easy to slightly tip the router which messes up the tongue and/or groove. You can alleviate that by laying a second piece of your material parallel to the one you're cutting to support the router base.

Another thing would be an edge guide that will hold your router stable. Here's a picture of the Bosch unit, another of the DeWalt guide.
View attachment 400591 View attachment 400592
I completely understand that table is better, but since the flooring is already installed, I'm hesitant to try to take up a whole section of the board in the hallway just to be able to take them to the bench. I was planning on using another piece of scrap flooring on the other side of the opening, parallel as a counter section to set the router on to hopefully alleviate the tipping issue.

Will the edge guides work if I am routing on the edge of the board?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Either you or I am missing the point. Is part of the floor already installed? When talking about reversing direction I am talking about one floor going horizontal and the other going vertical. Is Jamma007 trying to install additional flooring that has a tongue on it to flooring that does not have a groove? If so, then good luck (especially for a non professional) to cut a groove/ slot into the existing floor. I would really like to see that slot when it reaches the wall. Maybe it could be cut with a chisel and an oscillating tool or maybe it could be cut with a kick saw or maybe it could just be only cut where it's easy to cut and then simply butt up the rest. Maybe if it was really necessary to have a slot then the guys in the above video doing boarders should be told that they are doing it wrong. The end tongue and groove help keep things lined up. A surface nail and adhesive will do the same thing.

The flooring in the hallway is already installed and is existing. Its a combination of tongue and straight cuts that they made when they installed it. Im going to cut it back square just a bit to loose the tounges and I would like to put a slip tongue in to make sure that the boards stay flush over time. I have previously done a room where I just but joined them and the boards weren't perfectly flush. Since its already installed I can cut the slip tongue to length. The width is only as wide as a doorway, so I was only going to put the tongue in as far as I can route a groove and leave the rest to butt up since it will be along the door frame.

Heres a picture for reference. This is at the other end when I did the previous bedroom where I got lucky and the grooved edges all lined up. (this was a test fit of the cut before the underlayment was installed.

The issue with just a butt joint here is that there are many different boards that may move over time and start to come up. A slip tounge will help them all stay flush.

*I don't want to lace them into the hallway because the hallway is running along the floor joist instead of across them the way I have always been told it should be run in a room.

Brown Building Wood Fixture Flooring
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Thanks for all the recommendations. I got it all laid on Saturday and finished trimming it out yesterday. Now I need to find a new project for the router.

@TimPa. Thanks for posting that bit. Thats what I ended up using and it worked perfectly.
 

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