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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I am a professional woodworker at Blowing Rock Woodworks in Deep Gap, NC. We build custom furniture, mostly slab tables. Been doing that about 7 years now. First career was in print publishing as a Designer/Art Director. Did that for 26 years. I have always been an artist, drawing, sculpting, etc. Did an occasional wood project over the years, but didn't really get into it until 2013. I have a gallery of personal projects here: Fractured Forest Woodworks

The router is the bane of my existence. LOL! It can do wonders as well as a ton of damage, ruining an entire project, in the blink of an eye. I am the only guy at the furniture shop who uses the thing. The other guys are too scared of it! So, while I am getting better with it, I have a ways to go.

That brings me to me the project question. I am trying to restore and old barometer. It's needs a top/cap like the one I have attached. I've been studying it for quite a while now, but just can't wrap my head around what profiles I need to reproduce one like the sample. I don't need it to be an exact match to the sample. Close is good enough in this case. I know it's multiple profiles, but how many and where do I start?

Guidance is appreciated. Thank you.
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Oliver (Prof. Henry)
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Can you detect any more glue seams in the original? To my eye, the top section needs to be made in two pieces, and the bottom possibly three. The bottom and the top may both have been made with a shaper rather than a router. This is definitely router table work rather than hand-held.
 

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Not sure I know how I'd do it, but it will certainly require several bits and multiple passes on each piece. So I'm posting this picture guide to routers and their profiles. You can see from the profiles that you should be able to cut something very close to the profile you're showing.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
welcome to the forum, T.H.
Fortunately, you have quite a bit of woodworking experience under your belt.
just try to imagine which bit profile can remove the wood that you don't want to keep.
Thank you, John. I understand the concept. I guess I'm looking for an order
Can you detect any more glue seams in the original? To my eye, the top section needs to be made in two pieces, and the bottom possibly three. The bottom and the top may both have been made with a shaper rather than a router. This is definitely router table work rather than hand-held.
Yes, there is one seam as indicated on the drawing. I agree that a shaper was likely used. I do have a router table.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Shame you don't have a CNC. Fairly easy to turn your image into vectors and create a moulding toolpath for. I'd do it
as a strip then miter the corners. Maybe do the cap as a separate piece. View attachment 401497
Well, 4DThinker, I do have a CNC. But, I have not done anything like this with it. It's a MillrightCNC M3 desktop model. If you think it will work and don't mind offering me some guidance, I would love to learn to use it for this type of thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Not sure I know how I'd do it, but it will certainly require several bits and multiple passes on each piece. So I'm posting this picture guide to routers and their profiles. You can see from the profiles that you should be able to cut something very close to the profile you're showing. View attachment 401505
Thank you, sir. The more profiles I get, the better! And, the more migraines I get LOL!
 

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Thank you, sir. The more profiles I get, the better! And, the more migraines I get LOL!
Here's another chart of some other basic bits. I think you will need something like a Cove cutter forsome of those inside curves. But I think you'd be wise to order or download a complete catalog of a couple of bit makers. There are so many different bits out there that it takes a catalog to figure out which is best for your purposes. I bought some bits from Sommerfeld and their catalog is huge. Might find a pdf catalog for
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Here's a link to the Freud product catalog: Freud General Products Catalog
 

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Welcome to the forum @Daqve
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
using a router Shaper Cutter Profiles — Corob Cutters

video it is an add but shows use.
pictures are from the Corob site



  • ADP10 Adapter
    ADP10 with shaper cutter.jpg


    ADP10 Adapter
    20.95
CRT-10 Router Table Starter Set: ADP10 Adapter with Shaper Cutters #3, 7, 26
ADP10-transparent.jpg


CRT-10 Router Table Starter Set: ADP10 Adapter with Shaper Cutters #3, 7, 26
63.99
Shaper Cutter Pro Set
#3 - BEAD & QUARTER RD MOLDING SHAPER HORIZONTAL GRAIN.jpg


Shaper Cutter Pro Set
77.94
Thanks for that. Currently, all the shaper pieces I would need are cost prohibited. :cautious:
 

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Mike
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I agree with 4DThinker that since you have a CNC that would be a great way to do it. I reproduced some trim for a bathroom where the plumber messed up a couple of feet of trim tearing out a section of the wall to get to some pipes. We could not find any ready-made trim to replace the damaged sections needed.

What design software are you using for your projects?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I agree with 4DThinker that since you have a CNC that would be a great way to do it. I reproduced some trim for a bathroom where the plumber messed up a couple of feet of trim tearing out a section of the wall to get to some pipes. We could not find any ready-made trim to replace the damaged sections needed.

What design software are you using for your projects?
I create 2D svg files in Illustrator. That's the easy part. I've had some luck creating 3D extrusions in FreeCAD, but I have had no luck creating tool paths from the 3D model. I have an old Mac running 10.11.6 which is largely no longer supported by anyone. The Mac can't be upgraded. It's really frustrating. All I need is a way to create those dang tool paths and I think I'd be good.
 
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