Just joined with help needed.

1990 Views 20 Replies 10 Participants Last post by 4DThinker, 7 mo ago

thtemplejr

Discussion Starter · Apr 17, 2022

Hello, I am a professional woodworker at Blowing Rock Woodworks in Deep Gap, NC. We build custom furniture, mostly slab tables. Been doing that about 7 years now. First career was in print publishing as a Designer/Art Director. Did that for 26 years. I have always been an artist, drawing, sculpting, etc. Did an occasional wood project over the years, but didn't really get into it until 2013. I have a gallery of personal projects here: Fractured Forest Woodworks

The router is the bane of my existence. LOL! It can do wonders as well as a ton of damage, ruining an entire project, in the blink of an eye. I am the only guy at the furniture shop who uses the thing. The other guys are too scared of it! So, while I am getting better with it, I have a ways to go.

That brings me to me the project question. I am trying to restore and old barometer. It's needs a top/cap like the one I have attached. I've been studying it for quite a while now, but just can't wrap my head around what profiles I need to reproduce one like the sample. I don't need it to be an exact match to the sample. Close is good enough in this case. I know it's multiple profiles, but how many and where do I start?

Guidance is appreciated. Thank you.

Font Liquid Office equipment Computer monitor accessory Drawing

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John Smith_

· #2 · Apr 17, 2022

welcome to the forum, T.H.
Fortunately, you have quite a bit of woodworking experience under your belt.
just try to imagine which bit profile can remove the wood that you don't want to keep.

Reactions: 3

Gaffboat

· #3 · Apr 17, 2022

Can you detect any more glue seams in the original? To my eye, the top section needs to be made in two pieces, and the bottom possibly three. The bottom and the top may both have been made with a shaper rather than a router. This is definitely router table work rather than hand-held.

Reactions: 3

biotec

· #4 · Apr 17, 2022 (Edited)

@thtemplejr

#56 Shaper Ogee & Bead Table Edge — Corob Cutters
Shaper Cutter Profiles — Corob Cutters

maybe using molding head cutter is a solution. see link

Corob & Craftsman Knife Profiles — Corob Cutters

there is a lot choices there before having a custom one made.

Reactions: 1

4DThinker

· #5 · Apr 17, 2022

Shame you don't have a CNC. Fairly easy to turn your image into vectors and create a moulding toolpath for. I'd do it
as a strip then miter the corners. Maybe do the cap as a separate piece.

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jw2170

· #6 · Apr 18, 2022

Welcome to the forum, @thtemplejr

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DesertRatTom

· #7 · Apr 18, 2022

Not sure I know how I'd do it, but it will certainly require several bits and multiple passes on each piece. So I'm posting this picture guide to routers and their profiles. You can see from the profiles that you should be able to cut something very close to the profile you're showing.

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Reactions: 1

old55

· #8 · Apr 18, 2022

Welcome to the forum @thtemplejr

Reactions: 1

thtemplejr

Discussion Starter · #9 · Apr 18, 2022

John Smith_ said:
welcome to the forum, T.H.
Fortunately, you have quite a bit of woodworking experience under your belt.
just try to imagine which bit profile can remove the wood that you don't want to keep.

Thank you, John. I understand the concept. I guess I'm looking for an order

Gaffboat said:
Can you detect any more glue seams in the original? To my eye, the top section needs to be made in two pieces, and the bottom possibly three. The bottom and the top may both have been made with a shaper rather than a router. This is definitely router table work rather than hand-held.

Yes, there is one seam as indicated on the drawing. I agree that a shaper was likely used. I do have a router table.

thtemplejr

Discussion Starter · #10 · Apr 18, 2022

biotec said:
@thtemplejr

#56 Shaper Ogee & Bead Table Edge — Corob Cutters
Shaper Cutter Profiles — Corob Cutters

maybe using molding head cutter is a solution. see link

Corob & Craftsman Knife Profiles — Corob Cutters

there is a lot choices there before having a custom one made.

Thank you for the profiles. I have been looking into router bits, but not really the ones you have supplied. I will take a look.

thtemplejr

Discussion Starter · #11 · Apr 18, 2022

4DThinker said:
Shame you don't have a CNC. Fairly easy to turn your image into vectors and create a moulding toolpath for. I'd do it
as a strip then miter the corners. Maybe do the cap as a separate piece. View attachment 401497

Well, 4DThinker, I do have a CNC. But, I have not done anything like this with it. It's a MillrightCNC M3 desktop model. If you think it will work and don't mind offering me some guidance, I would love to learn to use it for this type of thing.

Reactions: 1

thtemplejr

Discussion Starter · #12 · Apr 18, 2022

DesertRatTom said:
Not sure I know how I'd do it, but it will certainly require several bits and multiple passes on each piece. So I'm posting this picture guide to routers and their profiles. You can see from the profiles that you should be able to cut something very close to the profile you're showing. View attachment 401505

Thank you, sir. The more profiles I get, the better! And, the more migraines I get LOL!

DesertRatTom

· #13 · Apr 18, 2022

thtemplejr said:
Thank you, sir. The more profiles I get, the better! And, the more migraines I get LOL!

Here's another chart of some other basic bits. I think you will need something like a Cove cutter forsome of those inside curves. But I think you'd be wise to order or download a complete catalog of a couple of bit makers. There are so many different bits out there that it takes a catalog to figure out which is best for your purposes. I bought some bits from Sommerfeld and their catalog is huge. Might find a pdf catalog for

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Here's a link to the Freud product catalog: Freud General Products Catalog

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Daqve

· #14 · Apr 28, 2022

I'd first cut away chunks with blind cuts on a table saw to minimize the amount of stock the router has to remove. I to would find it much simpler to create the profile on a straight board then miter to make the shape.

Reactions: 2

jw2170

· #15 · Apr 29, 2022

Welcome to the forum @Daqve

thtemplejr

Discussion Starter · #16 · Apr 29, 2022

Daqve said:
I'd first cut away chunks with blind cuts on a table saw to minimize the amount of stock the router has to remove. I to would find it much simpler to create the profile on a straight board then miter to make the shape.

Right. I just need to find the right bit profiles.

biotec

· #17 · Apr 29, 2022

using a router Shaper Cutter Profiles — Corob Cutters

video it is an add but shows use.

pictures are from the Corob site

ADP10 Adapter
20.95

CRT-10 Router Table Starter Set: ADP10 Adapter with Shaper Cutters #3, 7, 26

CRT-10 Router Table Starter Set: ADP10 Adapter with Shaper Cutters #3, 7, 26
63.99

Shaper Cutter Pro Set

#3 - BEAD & QUARTER RD MOLDING SHAPER HORIZONTAL GRAIN.jpg

Shaper Cutter Pro Set
77.94

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thtemplejr

Discussion Starter · #18 · Apr 29, 2022

biotec said:
using a router Shaper Cutter Profiles — Corob Cutters

video it is an add but shows use.

pictures are from the Corob site

ADP10 Adapter
20.95

CRT-10 Router Table Starter Set: ADP10 Adapter with Shaper Cutters #3, 7, 26
63.99

Shaper Cutter Pro Set
77.94

Thanks for that. Currently, all the shaper pieces I would need are cost prohibited.

MEBCWD

· #19 · Apr 30, 2022

I agree with 4DThinker that since you have a CNC that would be a great way to do it. I reproduced some trim for a bathroom where the plumber messed up a couple of feet of trim tearing out a section of the wall to get to some pipes. We could not find any ready-made trim to replace the damaged sections needed.

What design software are you using for your projects?

thtemplejr

Discussion Starter · #20 · Apr 30, 2022

MEBCWD said:
I agree with 4DThinker that since you have a CNC that would be a great way to do it. I reproduced some trim for a bathroom where the plumber messed up a couple of feet of trim tearing out a section of the wall to get to some pipes. We could not find any ready-made trim to replace the damaged sections needed.

What design software are you using for your projects?

I create 2D svg files in Illustrator. That's the easy part. I've had some luck creating 3D extrusions in FreeCAD, but I have had no luck creating tool paths from the 3D model. I have an old Mac running 10.11.6 which is largely no longer supported by anyone. The Mac can't be upgraded. It's really frustrating. All I need is a way to create those dang tool paths and I think I'd be good.

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