what clearance do you have between the bit and the inside of the guide bushing? If you are too close, the runout in the spindle could cause an issue.
Keep destroying bushings...
Hello and please forgive my apparent ignorance on what I am doing. First post here to try and resolve why I keep destroying guide bushings (2). First, I went with my Festool OF 1010 and chucked up a 1/4" CMT 191.008.11 Solid Carbide Upcut Spiral Bit and proceeded to test cut. I quickly ate the aluminum Porter Cable bushing. Whoa, that plate can't be centered so I moved to my Dewalt 618 with plunge base and chucked up a 1/2" Whiteside RU5200T Three Flute Up Cut Spiral Bit, AFTER purchasing a Universal Base Plate with centering mandrel. The problem is the centering mandrel is fairly narrow and will only work with a few of my bushings.
I put in a Powertec 1/2" OD guide bushing and used the mandrel to center the plate. I actually had to center it with the smaller bushing, remove that bushing, and then put in the 5/8" bushing and then chuck up my bit. Not exactly ideal... Manually turning the bit proved it did NOT touch the inside walls of the bushing. I attached power and proceeded to cut a test pattern but the same thing happened, I quickly ate up the bushing and stopped after about 1"-2", never even making it to the pattern itself. Another bushing destroyed.
Now, I do think my first plunge was too deep, I was a bit hasty. But what the heck? I have watched a ton of videos on pattern routing and you can't even find many people reminding you that the bushing needs to be centered, they simply chuck up and go. What the heck am I doing wrong? Is there really that much flex in these bits? I am feeling pretty worthless right now...
Thanks,
Mark
I put in a Powertec 1/2" OD guide bushing and used the mandrel to center the plate. I actually had to center it with the smaller bushing, remove that bushing, and then put in the 5/8" bushing and then chuck up my bit. Not exactly ideal... Manually turning the bit proved it did NOT touch the inside walls of the bushing. I attached power and proceeded to cut a test pattern but the same thing happened, I quickly ate up the bushing and stopped after about 1"-2", never even making it to the pattern itself. Another bushing destroyed.
Now, I do think my first plunge was too deep, I was a bit hasty. But what the heck? I have watched a ton of videos on pattern routing and you can't even find many people reminding you that the bushing needs to be centered, they simply chuck up and go. What the heck am I doing wrong? Is there really that much flex in these bits? I am feeling pretty worthless right now...
Thanks,
Mark
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I've only been routing 3 years, from the beginning I've used a Powertec bushing set often and haven't had your problem, even when the bit to bushing gap has been small, a 16th or so. Doesn't sound like a centering issue to me. If you have a small gap after you have everything together rotate the spindle with your fingers while watching the gap.
One thing you need to be careful about especially with a plunge base is that the collet doesn't touch the bushing. Also it can be tricky to get the lock ring of the bushing tight, I often use finger tips from both hands to grip the ring from both sides.
One thing you need to be careful about especially with a plunge base is that the collet doesn't touch the bushing. Also it can be tricky to get the lock ring of the bushing tight, I often use finger tips from both hands to grip the ring from both sides.
Thanks for the replies, guys.
Before I unchucked that 1/2" bit, I laid the router on its side and pressed sideways on the bit, it definitely flexes/moves. Not what I was expecting. It can't be the bit itself, so the router must be moving in the plunge base. My ring was loose, I had read somewhere that it should tighten itself up so I didn't bother trying to get it too tight. After reading several posts on this forum this morning, that apparently is very wrong so I need to tighten the ring more, much more. I also just ordered a Bushing Spring / Lock Washers Set from MLCS, that should keep the bushing tight.
What is the recommended max depth of cut? I was using a 1/2" template on 3/4" birch ply and made most of the 3/4" cut on the first pass, definitely too deep, but this certainly isn't hardwood. 1/4"? 1/2"? What depth should I expect on each pass or was it the bushing loosening up that is the issue?
And last but not least, what are people using on their OF 1010's? I've heard Leigh makes a plate for the OF 1010, but does anyone else? The stock plate is plastic with centered screw holes, no way to adjust.
Before I unchucked that 1/2" bit, I laid the router on its side and pressed sideways on the bit, it definitely flexes/moves. Not what I was expecting. It can't be the bit itself, so the router must be moving in the plunge base. My ring was loose, I had read somewhere that it should tighten itself up so I didn't bother trying to get it too tight. After reading several posts on this forum this morning, that apparently is very wrong so I need to tighten the ring more, much more. I also just ordered a Bushing Spring / Lock Washers Set from MLCS, that should keep the bushing tight.
What is the recommended max depth of cut? I was using a 1/2" template on 3/4" birch ply and made most of the 3/4" cut on the first pass, definitely too deep, but this certainly isn't hardwood. 1/4"? 1/2"? What depth should I expect on each pass or was it the bushing loosening up that is the issue?
And last but not least, what are people using on their OF 1010's? I've heard Leigh makes a plate for the OF 1010, but does anyone else? The stock plate is plastic with centered screw holes, no way to adjust.
Do you have pictures? I have had problems in the past making dovetails. Everytime i made them they start out fine but eventually they became loose or too tight. Figured out the Bosch base plate was off center. Ordered a new one from router man and problem solved.
Base plates are cut within manufactures specs.
I would like to see a picture of the guide and router bit. Together in the router guide if possible...
Base plates are cut within manufactures specs.
I would like to see a picture of the guide and router bit. Together in the router guide if possible...
Plus 1 on the spring washer. You won't have to worry about the nut coming loose.Thanks for the replies, guys.
Before I unchucked that 1/2" bit, I laid the router on its side and pressed sideways on the bit, it definitely flexes/moves. Not what I was expecting. It can't be the bit itself, so the router must be moving in the plunge base. My ring was loose, I had read somewhere that it should tighten itself up so I didn't bother trying to get it too tight. After reading several posts on this forum this morning, that apparently is very wrong so I need to tighten the ring more, much more. I also just ordered a Bushing Spring / Lock Washers Set from MLCS, that should keep the bushing tight.
What is the recommended max depth of cut? I was using a 1/2" template on 3/4" birch ply and made most of the 3/4" cut on the first pass, definitely too deep, but this certainly isn't hardwood. 1/4"? 1/2"? What depth should I expect on each pass or was it the bushing loosening up that is the issue?
And last but not least, what are people using on their OF 1010's? I've heard Leigh makes a plate for the OF 1010, but does anyone else? The stock plate is plastic with centered screw holes, no way to adjust.
In regards to the centering, watch this video Sounds like the Incra guy....Bosch also has a centering cone for this purpose but the base must be able to make the minor adjsutments or get an aftermarket base that does.
You can't center a fixed base...
I have never seen a router base that did not have some built-in play for centering the base to the center of the shaft especially if they are made to accept router bushings.You can't center a fixed base...
You may not have seen, but your hearing about it...
The Bosch plate is not centered. It's off by 1/32 on a Bosch 1604. This was brought up on Woodnet back in 2005.
There are no adjustments.
I bought a new plate he manufactured to get a perfectly centered hole for dovetails...I use the router setup exclusively for the Omnijig....
The Bosch plate is not centered. It's off by 1/32 on a Bosch 1604. This was brought up on Woodnet back in 2005.
There are no adjustments.
I bought a new plate he manufactured to get a perfectly centered hole for dovetails...I use the router setup exclusively for the Omnijig....
Mine have the wiggle room to center the baseI have never seen a router base that did not have some built-in play for centering the base to the center of the shaft especially if they are made to accept router bushings.
You can't wiggle the Bosch.
I would assume/hope the newer models do.You can't wiggle the Bosch.
Here is a perfect example of play in a router template guide. By that "play" mentioned, it can deform or destroy template guides. This guide was maxed out with a plunge bit. After many uses and the guide loosening up in operation it thinned so much, it is unusable at this point. It has been deformed from hand tightening...
![Metal Aluminium Circle Steel Silver]()
My plate was made by the deceased Router Man. I'm not sure who is makimg these perfectly machine plates now.....
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