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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have make some simple shelves and want to use a key hole router bit to cut some hanging slots to hang them
I would like to put them vertical on the back ...taller part. I'm not sure what the best way to do this would be.
Or should I put them horizontal on each end ?
Any suggestions for using the key hole router bit to cut hanger on the back of my shelves ?



Thanks
 

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how wide of a piece do have to cut the keyhole slot in???...
what is the weight of your shelf???... size???...
a single horizontal cut is most forgiving for centering/balancing.leveling...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Two shelves are 14" wide/long
One is 30" long
All three are 6" deep.
They don't weight much...popular and maple
Going to set picture and small stuff on them
I would like to put a hanger slot on each end.
 

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Remember that the slots have to be in the same orientation to work. You can’t go inward from each end. They’ll need to be deep enough to leave enough shoulder to support the load.
 
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Theo
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If it was me I would go with a French cleat.
 

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Two shelves are 14" wide/long
One is 30" long
All three are 6" deep.
They don't weight much...popular and maple
Going to set picture and small stuff on them
I would like to put a hanger slot on each end.
how thick??? what material are the shelves???
you trying to hang these shelves straight (blind/floating) to the wall like so...



if you are, a keyhole slot won't work for very long...
there is hardware just for the task at hand...

 
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that's a better move...
 

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those brackets go on shelf...
screw goes in the wall..
 

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Paul
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I assume you're placing the supports into or over studs. I think a keyhole hanger over a stud is adequate, but if you're just placing it on drywall, it won't take much to pull the drywall anchors out of the wall. It's pretty easy to fix the wall, hope you kept a paint sample to patch if you move. I like the anchors that are threaded, they seem to hold better than the tap-in type. It will probably take a couple of tries to get the shelf mounted flush to the wall. Measure carefully, an error will be annoying to fix.

If you use the hardware version, you should cut a small mortise to mount the hanger so that the back piece fits flush against the wall, otherwise it's going to tilt forward a bit. Not good for fragile chachkas.
 

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I assume you're placing the supports into or over studs. I think a keyhole hanger over a stud is adequate, but if you're just placing it on drywall, it won't take much to pull the drywall anchors out of the wall.
3 or more togglers per shelf are the fix for that...

 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
those brackets go on shelf...
screw goes in the wall..

Yes I understand that...

I ment that I could just screw the shelves to the wall. Small head finish screw. That would be a lot easier to mount than the key hole metal mounts....

I am mounting them on a plaster/lath wall. I have had pretty good luck drilling a pilot hole in the plaster and using a screw...or finding the studs.
 

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Drill your holes in the shelf first, then mark the wall through the holes. That should make lining up the wall holes foolproof. BTW, if you are going to paint or finish the shelves, you can fill the holes with Timber Mate filler, available on Amazon in colors to match your stock. It can be finished and becomes more or less invisible. It's an Aussie product and doesn't shrink. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=timber+mate
 

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drill the holes in either the wall or the shelf 1st...
transfer the location to the other surface w/ dowel points...
 
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I'm with Theo. A French cleat. It could easily be cut from the existing back piece. Easier than trying to get a keyhole right and will allow the back to be flush to the wall.
 

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How would I cut a french cleat from my existing back piece not that its together ?

Thanks
¼'' Baltic birch plywood added to the back of the shelf
 
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