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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The specific project in hand is an oak Plate Display Shelf a relative purchased at a craft booth in a Mall somewhere. Got it home and realized it only had picture hangers on the back... not very secure for displaying her plates. Asked me if I could put Key holes in it.. Since it's back edges are scrolled top and bottom, the only square I have to work with would be the shelf board mounted to the front, so likely would have to reference from there, with a spaced template to the back side for the Keyhole guide.

I'm thinking this problem will not be unique, because I've seen this before. If the next shelf is of different size/shape, an adjustable jig would be a better tool than a single set-up jig. My smallest router is a PC690. From that I go to a Bosch 1618 - 2 hp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Keyhole Jig

No problem hanging it, just wanting a relatively universal jig tool to set matched keyholes in the back of differing size/shape premade decor shelves.
Once key holes are cut, two hole center tranfers set in the keyholes will mark the wall with the aid of a level on the shelf and subsequent pressure to make the dimples in the wall. Sorry if I wasn't clear.

reible said:
Here are a couple of thoughts for you.
One: make sure the slot is deep enough in the wood to hold well and long enough so it cannot easily slip out.


Two: if the shelf is long enough try to have 16" centers or multiples of 16” so you can mount to wall studs.



Three: on smaller then 16 “ pieces I like to take a ¾” x ¾” piece of pine and tap a couple of nails thru it so the points just come out maybe a 1/16” at the spacing I want. Then I use the piece of pine to locate the holes on the work piece and on the wall so they all line up.



Four: on pieces that are going to get only one hole make sure you have the balance point or they will never hang straight.



I like to use my trim router because it light weight and handy for this sort of project. I made an L shaped plywood cutout that I clamp to the work piece. I use the one side of the L to run against and the other as a stop on the top-side (where the slot is not the hole on the work piece). Keep in mind the top of the slot is where the screw stops and the starting hole is not as critical.



If you need more information before Rick gets his tip out let me know I will make a drawing or take a picture of my set-up.



Ed
 
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