I like my tall skinny cabinets for flat pans, cookie sheets, etc.

 

Thanks for photoshopping it John. Looking at it, I’m not so sure I like my idea now lol . May just build a 4.5” spacer filler etc to move over the 30” cabinet and kibosh the drop .
How I wish I had another 8” of room , as it’s always so darn close all the time . These really old houses certainly have limitations though.

Unfortunately I have to remove the cabinet on the far left and cut it apart , as it’s only 16” from the bottom to the top of the stove,and you need 18” minimum.
Wish I did it before I assembled and glued it. May have to order another 38 tall one and cut it while it’s in pieces

 

Check to see if you can order a 36 inch version so you don't have to cut it. I agree the spacer is your best solution. I wouldn't even bother trying to put a usable shelf in it. It's too high reach conveniently, like for a slide out spice rack.

 

Unfortunately they don’t make them in 36” at HD . I was hoping you could special order them ,but no . They come in 30” and 38”. I swore I seen a 32 also,but remember.
I wish I knew how to recut the holes for the hinge on the door in order to lower it ,but it looks kind of difficult if you’ve seen one

 

I take it that you are not married. If you were "Her" solution would be "We need to buy a new house"

 

lol , you called it . Honestly that is the right answer , and if I was working and young I’d opt for something newer .
860 sq ft is awful imo , but I didn’t invest when I was young , so here I am

 

Well I relented and decided to move my fridge over . It’s going to be 15” away, so I have a new cabinet coming as HD doesn’t stock it . I also have the lower cabinet that goes between the fridge and the stove and have to build it yet .
Next I have to relocate the alarm panel to a different wall,as the fridge is blocking it

 

G'day Rick.

I am still waiting for the posts on the shed insulation.... LOL.

Hope you are still keeping well....

I doubt I could survive one of your winters, even with insulation.

Once it gets below 10° C, I have to put a blanket on....

 

Hi Rick, if your cabinets have Euro - style hinges and you have to move one, no big deal. I did a lot of them with a shop-made Perspex jig, but had some problems with the depth - overdoing it by a smidgen led to a dimple on the outside (using melamine-covered mdf) because of the centre point of the Forstner bit. If your doors are 3/4, will not be a problem, here the standard size is 16mm.
Anyway, I upgraded to a Kreg jig, which solved another problem: the spacing g of the 35mm hole from the edge of the door can vary, depending on hinge manufacturer, and the purpose of the hinge (eg 105degree opening vs 180degree opening). The jig can be set accordingly, and if you have an existing hole, just place the jig over it, and then set the stops. The depth of cut can also be set, but to make sure, I flattened the point of the Forstner bit- the jig does not allow the bit to wander (at least in mdf or particle board - might be different in grainy hardwoods). The jig also has two holes to position pilot holes for the two screws that hold the hinge in place in the door. It is then relatively straightforward to locate and drill holes for the mounting plate screws.

After I bought the Greg jig, a Milescraft knockoff appeared on the market - much cheaper, but also better in some ways. Some local guy even got in on the act with a locally produced jig, with less adjustability but very solid. For limited use, a nitride-coated 35mm bit will do, but if you get the urge to do cupboards in your gym, get a carbide-tipped Forstner.

Once you get into it, using those hinges is kind of addictive - no mortising of butt hinges, and there is some adjustability in 3 dimensions. The hinges are available for full overlay, half overlay or fully inset doors., faceless or face-frame cabinet construction.

 

Maybe add a single door cabinet to the right? Even a narrower one?