Hello Nick! I see the area where You lost the aid of the pin, or the fence! The picture is looking good, unless You didn't want Us to see that! Not sure what You are doing, but if You set the fence up on the router table, so the bearing on the bit kisses the fence, and the work piece the problem should disapear

 

Thanks for the quick reply!

They way I'm using my profile bit to round off the outside edge of the picture frames makes it so the bearing isn't used. Can I just but the edge of the infeed side of the fence against the bit?

 

Double face tape a piece wood to the top your board to ride against the bearing

 

Nick, I ran into the same thing a couple of weeks ago and never did ask the question. One way around the problem is to put your profiles on before the final cuts and throw away the divot pieces.

My guess (not answer) to the problem is that the bit pulls the unsupported piece at the end in when it passes the in-feed side of the fence. For some reason I had taken my split fence off before I put on the profile and that left a small gap between the bit and the fence. I believe if I had the split fence on and I had closed the gap between the bit and the fence I would not have had the problem of a divot. I tried different ways of applying pressure to the piece against the fence plus downward pressure and occasionally would get a divot free cut.

 

3 ways...

1. Set the smallest diameter of the profile flush with fence. Maybe even a few thousandths behind the fence.

2. Use a thin shim board attached to the outfeed side of fence the same thickness as the minimum part removed from the workpiece. Keep workpiece tight against outfeed fence after the cut.

3. Attach a guide strip to the workpiece as mentioned above. It can ride against the fence or the bearing. Looks like the fence is the better option, as it looks to me the small part of the profile is smaller than the bearing?

 

Hi Nick. How about a zero clearance fence? Two side tape a piece of hardboard to the face of your fence after drilling a hole for the bearing to pass through. Move the fence forward into the bit until the bit cuts its profile through the hardboard. Should work!!

 

Duane nailed it. You had too much bit exposed in front of your fence. One of the easiest ways to set the fence on a bit like that is to line the cove section to the fence with a round dowel that is just small enough to rest in the bottom of the curve.

 

After much fretting about perfection and .0000001 corrections I finally learned to use the K.I.S.S principle with great results. Make the piece a bit longer and cut off the mistake. It's supposed to be fun, I think. Enjoy the project.

 

I think You have the best answer of all! Depending on the price of the wood

 

All of the above:

KISS- in all of the old Router Workshop videos, Bob would talk about isolating the bearing, simply using a straight edge and setting the bearing flush with the fence. This automatically sets the profile in perfect orientation with the fence.

Use a zero clearance fence- the window around your bit is a little too big. tighten it up just a little bit and you'll have better results.

Put more fence on the outfeed- you have a lot of infeed fence, but not a lot of outfeed. The outfeed side needs to be longer to give you a little better stability and protect the finished cut.

use a little more wood- if you add an extra inch or two to the length of your piece, that will save a lot more if you mess up an inch or two at the end. I mould a bunch of stock then cut it to length to make sure all the profiles are uniform.

HAVE FUN- thanks for the reminder, it's what is most often time forgotten in the shop.

 

Thank you everyone for the input! I ended up just making my frame slightly smaller than anticipated and will just make the correction when I cut my mat for my picture. I'm looking forward to the next one though so I can try out these suggestions.