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I started out a few years ago on a wall hung tool cabinet cutting some of the pieces out of 3/4" plywood. The joinery was to be box joints according to plans and I had second thoughts of using the plywood. Well most parts already cut I decided to continue on with it after those parts sat for a long time in the corner. Fast forward to last month and I started to build the unit using the LS Positioner and Super Fence from Incra.
I had enough pieces of scrap to test fit the box joints and dial in the length of cut but was still off in length a bit. I assembled the caucus making sure it was square and cutting the 1/4" slot for the back to fit in the sides and top/bottom. The back is 3/4" ply as well and fits with the 1/4" slot so that the 3/4" cleat is flush with the frame. This ensures the cabinet hangs flat on the wall.
There is a separator in the center that divides the cabinet in two parts that is also dadoed into the top/bottom but only partially. The dado does not exit the front of the base/top. Overall I'm somewhat pleased with the end result and I certainly learned some things from this build. My initial feeling after having cut those plywood parts several years ago was to go with hardwood like maple for the caucus and door frames. That I wish I had done and will do on the second build. Plywood is great for the door panels, back, and shelves if used but I found it not so easy to work with as far as box joints. Not saying it can't be done but the nature of plywood makes it a bit harder and more prone to issues.
I would also have made it deeper. I think the doors should have been a bit deeper so that there would be no chance of chisel handles hitting shelves if used and to offer a few more hanging choices. The depth of the cabinet itself could have been deeper to reduce the angle of hand planes if you make a till for those. I did have some scrap soft maple that I made two chisels holders from. One set of bench chisels and the other mortise chisels. I marked the back of the maple for the width of chisel and spaced so the handles had room between. The used the dado blade set using just the two main blades for 1/4" clean cuts. Using the backside reference lines and a scrap piece of 1/4" MDF screwed to my miter gauge I cut the 1/4" grove and used a square to mark the line taller so I could use them as reference points when cutting the maple. Just lined up the marks and cut to width.
I used the router table to cut a minimal round over on all edges of the holders, sanded and finished. The mounting holes to the doors are drilled and countersunk. The narrower piece attaches across the top front covering the mounting holes and securing the chisels. I used rare earth magnets to hold the cabinet doors closed with opposing washer and screws.
Very important lesson learned......when dry fitting cleats, always, and I mean always, make sure the cleat on the cabinet is screwed into the cabinet before attempting to hang on the cleat that you just securely screwed onto the wall. Forgetting that fact can and will likely cause you some discomfort when trying to make any adjustments. Just saying.
As for the planes I think they will hang separately until I build the maple, deeper unit. I also need to make some secure covers that hold the plane in place. Likely something that holds the handles in place from slipping down and a small board over the ends of teh plane. This would be to trap the planes so that a forward motion and lift of the end would allow removal of the plane as needed. Hope that makes some sense. The dividers are 1/2" tall and I wish I had made them say an inch. Another lesson.
I had enough pieces of scrap to test fit the box joints and dial in the length of cut but was still off in length a bit. I assembled the caucus making sure it was square and cutting the 1/4" slot for the back to fit in the sides and top/bottom. The back is 3/4" ply as well and fits with the 1/4" slot so that the 3/4" cleat is flush with the frame. This ensures the cabinet hangs flat on the wall.
There is a separator in the center that divides the cabinet in two parts that is also dadoed into the top/bottom but only partially. The dado does not exit the front of the base/top. Overall I'm somewhat pleased with the end result and I certainly learned some things from this build. My initial feeling after having cut those plywood parts several years ago was to go with hardwood like maple for the caucus and door frames. That I wish I had done and will do on the second build. Plywood is great for the door panels, back, and shelves if used but I found it not so easy to work with as far as box joints. Not saying it can't be done but the nature of plywood makes it a bit harder and more prone to issues.
I would also have made it deeper. I think the doors should have been a bit deeper so that there would be no chance of chisel handles hitting shelves if used and to offer a few more hanging choices. The depth of the cabinet itself could have been deeper to reduce the angle of hand planes if you make a till for those. I did have some scrap soft maple that I made two chisels holders from. One set of bench chisels and the other mortise chisels. I marked the back of the maple for the width of chisel and spaced so the handles had room between. The used the dado blade set using just the two main blades for 1/4" clean cuts. Using the backside reference lines and a scrap piece of 1/4" MDF screwed to my miter gauge I cut the 1/4" grove and used a square to mark the line taller so I could use them as reference points when cutting the maple. Just lined up the marks and cut to width.
I used the router table to cut a minimal round over on all edges of the holders, sanded and finished. The mounting holes to the doors are drilled and countersunk. The narrower piece attaches across the top front covering the mounting holes and securing the chisels. I used rare earth magnets to hold the cabinet doors closed with opposing washer and screws.
Very important lesson learned......when dry fitting cleats, always, and I mean always, make sure the cleat on the cabinet is screwed into the cabinet before attempting to hang on the cleat that you just securely screwed onto the wall. Forgetting that fact can and will likely cause you some discomfort when trying to make any adjustments. Just saying.
As for the planes I think they will hang separately until I build the maple, deeper unit. I also need to make some secure covers that hold the plane in place. Likely something that holds the handles in place from slipping down and a small board over the ends of teh plane. This would be to trap the planes so that a forward motion and lift of the end would allow removal of the plane as needed. Hope that makes some sense. The dividers are 1/2" tall and I wish I had made them say an inch. Another lesson.
