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Paul
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Discussion Starter #1
I like the looks of the legs on this table. I was wondering about how they could be attached. I don't have a mortiser, something simple but sturdy would be nice. Any ideas?
 

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I like the looks of the legs on this table. I was wondering about how they could be attached. I don't have a mortiser, something simple but sturdy would be nice. Any ideas?
Paul, one way might be to build the rails in a square and notch the legs to fit the corners then screw and glue from the inside of the rails diagonally into the leg.
Closely fitting the notches would be critical.. Another thought would be a triangular block or metal corner brace bolted thru the leg on the diagonal and the head counter bored and plugged with a wooden plug to match. Just saying,
Herb
 

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One easy way out, is with hardware.
But the end of the rails have to match the section they're mating. A matching section (+ & -) will cope with the leg and provide some purchase.
Another option is to allow the legs another connection. They could be connected to the leg in the diagonal corner. And the conspicuous rails could be design/cosmetic/facade with essentially no structural influence. I've also seen the structural rails just being screwed to the top too.
In this case, they could be 1/2 length!
 

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Herb, I think my skills aren't good enough to do that cleanly and I'd rather not have anything showing.

Vince, I like your idea but I think those work by pulling the corner of a leg between the rails... this has no corner and the rail ends seem to be at 45 degrees.

Pat, the cosmetic rails might be the easiest solution for me. If I cut off the back-top of the leg behind the rail vertically, then add a board (stretcher?) that's going towards the opposite leg. Still sounds like more work than I wanted to get into.

I'd sure like to see a picture of that table upside down. ;)
 

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Paul
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A drawing that shows some ideas. The way Pat described is probably the 'real' way but with a mortise. Kinda tough for me to attempt but the joint would be hidden (bonus)!
 

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Those legs are maybe only 1" thick so not much room for a pair of mortises of any depth and they would have to angle into the leg which would be a little tricky even with a mortiser. Your drawings are workable, the only concern I would have is seasonal movement if the crosspiece which could open up your joints. The bracket Vince shows might compensate for that if there is some spring to it. One thing for sure is that the harder you pull against those rails the tighter the joint will get on the legs. If you can figure out a configuration that allows you to tighten up some later then that would be the way to go.
 

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A drawing that shows some ideas. The way Pat described is probably the 'real' way but with a mortise. Kinda tough for me to attempt but the joint would be hidden (bonus)!
Paul, I like the middle drawing the best. Also like the metal plates Vince showed. Pocket screws might work too.
I think once you settle on a method and start working on it, you might be surprised hat how it will not be that difficult.
I agree with Chuck that mortises not only being hard to do would not be strong enough.
Herb
 

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Paul, I like the middle drawing the best. Also like the metal plates Vince showed. Pocket screws might work too.
I think once you settle on a method and start working on it, you might be surprised hat how it will not be that difficult.
I agree with Chuck that mortises not only being hard to do would not be strong enough.
Herb
If I did put in the corner blocks like in the middle drawing, I could put in some pocket screws and I'd have some gluing surface. I don't think pocket screws would be good without the blocks because of the way the rails meet the legs at a 45.
 

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I would attach the corner blocks to the legs first and then the rails to the blocks and legs. If you try to do it the other way around the pocket screws might force the rail joints open as you tighten them down.
 
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