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Discussion Starter #1
Curious to the length of the rods on your router Skis. I did put a search in and there are plenty of pics of finished skis. The only length mentioned (that I read before my eyes started closing) was one of Bobs at 28". Mosts pics I saw of Skis appeared to be less than 28"..... closer to 18".

I had bought a while back 2, 36" rods. 36" rods seemed to me to be way too long for most applications so I cut them (one) down to two 18" rods. I have one rod threaded and attached to the feet and it looks like it will handle some or most "Ski Jobs"?

BTW the next time I buy rods for skis they will be threaded.:cray:
 

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Hi

You can always make them shorter but it's hard to make them longer.. :)

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Curious to the length of the rods on your router Skis. I did put a search in and there are plenty of pics of finished skis. The only length mentioned (that I read before my eyes started closing) was one of Bobs at 28". Mosts pics I saw of Skis appeared to be less than 28"..... closer to 18".

I had bought a while back 2, 36" rods. 36" rods seemed to me to be way too long for most applications so I cut them (one) down to two 18" rods. I have one rod threaded and attached to the feet and it looks like it will handle some or most "Ski Jobs"?

BTW the next time I buy rods for skis they will be threaded.:cray:
Here are details of mine, the maximum length is determined by the diameter of the rods, 12mm/1/2'" could go to about 30" without sag being a problem but the second criteria is the size of your bench top. Before starting any project do a dummy run to ensure that the skis aren't going to drop off the top of the bench. Happy skiing!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I appreciate the response(s) as I wanted to know before I hand threaded the 2nd rod an 1 3/8" on both ends (ouch) that I wasn't wasting my time. I went with 3/8" rod as that was the sames size as the rods on the edge guide.

I was concerned about sag and that was part of the reason for reducing the length. Length and also hands being roughly 3 feet apart when using the skis.

Harry I believe I see a simple flat washer on each side of the feet? If so, just checking that when hand tightening the wing nut that the rods don't slip.
 

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HI

The 3/8" and 5/16" don't concern me because I know the router is right on top of the stock but if you are using the skis for planner you can make them short..to keep the sag down to a min.

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I appreciate the response(s) as I wanted to know before I hand threaded the 2nd rod an 1 3/8" on both ends (ouch) that I wasn't wasting my time. I went with 3/8" rod as that was the sames size as the rods on the edge guide.

I was concerned about sag and that was part of the reason for reducing the length. Length and also hands being roughly 3 feet apart when using the skis.

Harry I believe I see a simple flat washer on each side of the feet? If so, just checking that when hand tightening the wing nut that the rods don't slip.
Yes Jim, I use a fender (or as WE say, mudguard) washer on each side of the end cheeks and in the ten years that I've been using them extensively, the wing nuts have never allowed slippage yet are a fast method of adjustment.

Here is a zip file showing the making of full size skis also a link to skis that I made for a trim router, also a shot of a small ski set-up that I did a photo-shoot on but can't find the link.

http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/15212-my-trim-router-goes-skiing.html
 

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Curious to the length of the rods on your router Skis. I did put a search in and there are plenty of pics of finished skis. The only length mentioned (that I read before my eyes started closing) was one of Bobs at 28". Mosts pics I saw of Skis appeared to be less than 28"..... closer to 18".

I had bought a while back 2, 36" rods. 36" rods seemed to me to be way too long for most applications so I cut them (one) down to two 18" rods. I have one rod threaded and attached to the feet and it looks like it will handle some or most "Ski Jobs"?

BTW the next time I buy rods for skis they will be threaded.:cray:
Hi Jim:

I've started to inventory rods of different lengths. I have 24" threaded that I'll not use again, 18" drill rod and 32" drill rod. Whatever you start with will continue to be useful no mater how large your inventory of sizes.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I take it that your ran into some problems with threaded rod? Rough movement/snags?
 

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I take it that your ran into some problems with threaded rod? Rough movement/snags?
Hi Jim:

Ok, a bunch of stuff here. Firstly, I have an Hitachi M12V and the base is a magnesium alloy so it is strong and durable but doesn't like abrasion. Just mounting the router in the middle of threaded rods abraded the magnesium to the extent that I had filings on my table.

Next, when I studied pivot frames I found that the rods were as much a guide as rails were for skis. The result is that I can slide the router across the rods to make a cut just as easily as I could using rails with skis. For that I needed smooth rods.

I use drill rod. It is harder and stronger than mild steel and threaded rod. However, there is still deflection. To counteract that I use a 3-2-1 block to set rod height and I use supporting blocks and wedges to counteract deflection.

I'm using a router in support of my renovation needs and I use it for beams, posts and a variety of other construction-type jobs. Ski usage for other aspects of the router discipline may be different.
 
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