spline the joints for flush control...
ran the ROS tipped up didn't ya???BTW I forgot to mention I used a ROS.
Probably why it left a depression.
sandpaper that was held in place by the water, then pushed the piece across the sandpaper.
but I prefer my belt sander for large areas, and more even sanding. My ROS I save for the 120 and 220 grits.
The joint in question was only a sliver of material running the length of the joint. I massaged the joint with a chisel but wasn't really able to get into the body of the board.
Maybe time to buy a crank neck chisel?
I do have a belt sander although I've never mastered the knack of removing only a minute amount with it.
I figured that I would create more problems than solve one.
But --- maybe it's time to learn!?!?
True--but--Build a router sled or put a router on skis and flatten with one of those.
Nope! flat on the board but probably just over sanded the damn thing trying to get the cherry down.ran the ROS tipped up didn't ya???
Have all 3, belt sander, plane & electric hand planer.A plane or belt sander sounds like the best thing since you don't have a planer.
If you can get your hands on an electric hand planer that might speed things up depending on how deep the depression is. (not my first choice)
I've had the same thing happen trying to sand down Rock Hard wood filler on pine. The Rock Hard is harder than the pine is so it wants to leave a hump. You get a little better results by using a piece of wood with sandpaper wrapped around it. The pads on most sanders are soft enough to deform a bit over humps so they just keep sanding the softer wood lower.Nope! flat on the board but probably just over sanded the damn thing trying to get the cherry down.
FFR (for future reference), if someone stumbles onto this thread,
If you're doing heavy or a lot of sanding be cognizant of the density of the adjoining boards. In this case all the boards were hardwood but some were softer (less dense) than others resulting in excess removal of material.
Thanks,Dan, I have not used a belt sander for several years and not seen those belts. Since I got the drum sander I have not had occasion to use the portable.What Herb said. Try the bright red belts, Diablo, or 3M, I can't remember, but man what an improvement in sanding belts for wood!
You also need a neoprene sanding belt cleaner. They do an amazing job of restoring the cutting ability of the belt when it gets a bit clogged with dust and resins.