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I absolutely refuse to deal with the screw down versions.

BUT
I can just use a small cordless drill with magnetized driver-bit + some spare counter-sunk screws ready nearby.
If it is a screw down version, I could make Zero Clearance Insert out of wood/MDF anytime.
What is so hard screwing down 2 screws for an insert after you change router bits?

Do you EVEN have router bits that "twist lock" into the router.

 

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I don't mind "twist lock" rings as long as I can get them with smaller inner apertures too.
I would prefer "zero clearance" rings even with screws than using "twist lock" rings" that have ONLY 25mm, 30mm and 67mm inner aperture only.

 

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What do you pass by the bit that would not bridge the smallest gap?

I would cut a disc without center hole out of MDF or HDPE (from kitchen chopping board) using a portable router + circle jig) mount it on the router table, set the router to 10,000 RPM and slowly raise the router fitted with the (small) straight bit slowly up to cut the center hole.
Then sand down the then "donut" ring to the correct thickness.

 

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Perhaps ask @harrysin why he has zero clearance rings and zero clearance fence.

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Well what do YOU use them for?

I'm not saying there isn't a need. I just don't know what it is.

I myself use zero-clearance plates on the table saw for Melamine to reduce chipping. Although I have found the right and sharp blade is more important.

I made my router table fence 8 1/4" tall because I do route things vertically. To help balance the tall and narrow wood, precision zero insert rings are also essential. The zero insert rings also help minimize dust and chips getting into the motor of the router though the router fan cavities. Remember, routers were/are never designed to be used upside down.

For usual edging or dado work when the work pieces lie flat, zero-clearance fence is more important than zero-clearance insert rings for reducing chipping. So the zero insert rings only help minimize dust and chips getting into the motor of the router though the router fan cavities in those scenarios

The zero-clearing plate on the table saw is for work quality (reduce chipping) and also for safety when ripping thin strips (BUT wide side should always at the fence though). Thin strips can fall in the gaps and get thrown out by the blade or gets jammed and cause kick-backs or accidents.