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BUT
I can just use a small cordless drill with magnetized driver-bit + some spare counter-sunk screws ready nearby.
If it is a screw down version, I could make Zero Clearance Insert out of wood/MDF anytime.
What is so hard screwing down 2 screws for an insert after you change router bits?

Do you EVEN have router bits that "twist lock" into the router.
I don't get it. You infer that people are lazy for not wanting to deal with the screws then suggest using a cordless drill??

I would be concerned about getting carried away with the cordless drill and stripping the threads on the plate itself. Granted we no longer use the outdated screw down plates.

Fairly clear that most folks consider the screws a bit of a hassle. I know I did. Twist lock is just an easier method and if you are changing bits a lot it does matter. Can't tell you the number of times that a little screw fell off into the hole and I had to go on a rescue mission. More than once I still had the DC on and the screw got sucked up too LOL. But I know some folks are perfect and never do that. And some of us are getting a bit older and working with tiny screws is more difficult. Your hands just don't cooperate like they did when younger.
 

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I would cut a disc without center hole out of MDF or HDPE (from kitchen chopping board) using a portable router + circle jig) mount it on the router table, set the router to 10,000 RPM and slowly raise the router fitted with the (small) straight bit slowly up to cut the center hole.
Then sand down the then "donut" ring to the correct thickness.
I know HOW you make the zero clearance ring. I want to know WHY you need it on a router?
 

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Perhaps ask @harrysin why he has zero clearance rings and zero clearance fence.
Well what do YOU use them for?

I'm not saying there isn't a need. I just don't know what it is.

I myself use zero-clearance plates on the table saw for Melamine to reduce chipping. Although I have found the right and sharp blade is more important.
 

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Well that was a much better explanation of why you want the zero clearance rings. I don't think the issues warrant all the extra trouble but each to his own.

My next question probably should go on a new thread: Is there any advantages to Horizontal routers that make them worthwhile? Particularly to working tall stock? We don't need one for mortise and tenon as we already have a mortiser and a couple different jigs.

I have considered a horizontal router as a cheap step between our current router tables and shapers.
 
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