I wonder just how close a clone the Lee Valley and Grizzly ones are? That is a pretty old tool so the chances that the patents expired are pretty high so one or both of them may be exact copies (they could even be made in the same factory if LV's doesn't have the Veritas name on it).
Lion Trimmer
I hope this is the correct place to post my question.
Over the weekend, I helped a friend clean out his fathers workshop so he could get ready to have a sale on some used tools. He found an old Lion Trimmer that needs a lot of TLC so he was going to bring it to the scrap yard to sell. In another life, we owned a custom frame shops and I had a floor mounted chopper that was made in Norway and I explained to Paul that it was the best miter cutter out there, he asked me if I wanted it and when I said yes, he just gave it to me.
I know there are several people on the forum who own Lion Trimmers and I am wondering if there is somewhere that I can obtain a parts breakdown sheet. I don't know if there is an owners manual since this is a very easy tool to use, I am looking for a place that might have replacement parts such as the springs that hold the guides in place or a recommendation on where to get the blades sharpened. Yhank you for the help.
Over the weekend, I helped a friend clean out his fathers workshop so he could get ready to have a sale on some used tools. He found an old Lion Trimmer that needs a lot of TLC so he was going to bring it to the scrap yard to sell. In another life, we owned a custom frame shops and I had a floor mounted chopper that was made in Norway and I explained to Paul that it was the best miter cutter out there, he asked me if I wanted it and when I said yes, he just gave it to me.
I know there are several people on the forum who own Lion Trimmers and I am wondering if there is somewhere that I can obtain a parts breakdown sheet. I don't know if there is an owners manual since this is a very easy tool to use, I am looking for a place that might have replacement parts such as the springs that hold the guides in place or a recommendation on where to get the blades sharpened. Yhank you for the help.
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Here ya go...have fun with it...I know I do...it also tells you how to make certain cuts...you probably know already...
The knives can be had from Highland Woodworking...
The knives can be had from Highland Woodworking...
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I used one for several years to fit trim for cabinetry. If I was still making a lot of furniture I would make sure I had one in the shop. It is amazing how thin trimmings can be.
Just remember this is a trimmer and not a chopper.
Just remember this is a trimmer and not a chopper.
I have the Grizzly version. It is so similar to the original it's clearly a duplicate. There seem to be several brands of these and they're almost certainly made in the same factory. At least one older version has a solid knife, most have two knives. Sharpening is not that hard to do. Flat ground with a slight bevel on the back. I'd sharpen it with a flat diamond stone.
Lots of posts on here about removing rust. You may not really need to replace the springs. I use mine mainly for cutting picture frames and cannot conceive of making a proper frame without one. I also use it to cut an exact 90 on face frames. The more accurate the cut, the more square the faceframe will be.
Easy to use. Cut the workpiece about 1/8th too long and trim off about 1/16th from each end. Do not try to cut more than 1/8th off, it's a trimmer which perfects the cut, another saw makes the rough cut.
For frames, the key is to make certain that both oppossing sides are exactly the same length. Grizzly makes a couple of aluminum pieces, one with a movable stop, to help do that. However, they are relatively short and I seldom use it, and prefer to measure the two pieces side be side, vertically, on a table. I cut the first piece to length. Then cut one end of the second piece and use that as a starting point for measuring. Use a knife to mark the cut point on the short side of the miter cut (the outside is not visible in the cutter), then trim to that line.
When sharpened (you can send it to the address in the pdf Stick posted), it will do a very fine shave, up to about 1/8th. More than that and the blade will tug on the piece and possibly mess up the cut. You must hold the piece firmly against the small fences or you can wind up with a curved cut that won't close.
I mounted my trimmer on a chunk of ply with handles at the balance point. this keeps me from getting anywhere the blades. Sharp doesn't begin to state how viciously sharp those blades are. I keep a piece of cardboard in place over the blades so I won't ever reach in there again. NEVER get your fingers anywhere near those blades!!!!!
You are lucky to get your hands on one of these. I read that it was first produced in the 1880s, and no tool will stick around that long without being best for the job.
Again, Stick's pdf has all the information you need. Enjoy.
Lots of posts on here about removing rust. You may not really need to replace the springs. I use mine mainly for cutting picture frames and cannot conceive of making a proper frame without one. I also use it to cut an exact 90 on face frames. The more accurate the cut, the more square the faceframe will be.
Easy to use. Cut the workpiece about 1/8th too long and trim off about 1/16th from each end. Do not try to cut more than 1/8th off, it's a trimmer which perfects the cut, another saw makes the rough cut.
For frames, the key is to make certain that both oppossing sides are exactly the same length. Grizzly makes a couple of aluminum pieces, one with a movable stop, to help do that. However, they are relatively short and I seldom use it, and prefer to measure the two pieces side be side, vertically, on a table. I cut the first piece to length. Then cut one end of the second piece and use that as a starting point for measuring. Use a knife to mark the cut point on the short side of the miter cut (the outside is not visible in the cutter), then trim to that line.
When sharpened (you can send it to the address in the pdf Stick posted), it will do a very fine shave, up to about 1/8th. More than that and the blade will tug on the piece and possibly mess up the cut. You must hold the piece firmly against the small fences or you can wind up with a curved cut that won't close.
I mounted my trimmer on a chunk of ply with handles at the balance point. this keeps me from getting anywhere the blades. Sharp doesn't begin to state how viciously sharp those blades are. I keep a piece of cardboard in place over the blades so I won't ever reach in there again. NEVER get your fingers anywhere near those blades!!!!!
You are lucky to get your hands on one of these. I read that it was first produced in the 1880s, and no tool will stick around that long without being best for the job.
Again, Stick's pdf has all the information you need. Enjoy.
Thank you all for the quick responses.
Thank you Nick for the attached files, that looks like all the information that I need.
Thank you Nick for the attached files, that looks like all the information that I need.
Thank you all for the quick responses.
Thank you Nick for the attached files, that looks like all the information that I need.
You're welcome....
Correction, it was Nickp's pdf. Man, that pdf is a treasure. I saved it.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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