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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I finally found a source for Baltic Birch plywood in 1/2" and 3/4" but they're in 5'x5' sheets. So layout will take more thought as I'm used to 4'x8' sheets. But I digress, what I'm mostly interested in is how well the lock miter bit will work on 1/2 Baltic plywood. I tried it on the box store's plywood and it was disastrous. The tear out was horrible all along the cut but I'm wondering if it was because of the quality of the plywood. I also have both the 1/2" and 3/4" Infinity Tools Lapped Miter Joint Router Bit which I suspect may work well on plywood drawers? Any feedback on if Baltic plywood will yield better results and if the Lapped Miter Joint Router Bit might be a good choice as well?

If this works well I may try my hand at using some Baltic Birch on the PC dovetail jig.
 

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you should find it to work quite well...
 

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Baltic Birch IS ply wood, so is Apple Ply. The other stuff ranges from horrible to just barely passable. Worst of all is the Chinese stuff that is filled in with fine strips of splinter causing bamboo.

Your joint should look pretty nice. Use a backer board of some sort at the exit end of the cut to help avoid tear out. I generally use a chunk of MDF for a push block/backer board.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys. This will be my first try with Baltic, that's once I get there to pick some up, so now it's way up on my list. I'll get a few 1/2" sheets and one 3/4" to wet my feet and see how things go. I've got a built-in panty that needs to be built. Right now it's a walk-in closet with a upright freezer and a few cheap plastic self standing shelf units. I envision base cabinets with adjustable shelves above with yet again more cabinets above for the need to have but seldom used goods. It can be so much more than it is now and I promised her I would build it.....another month or two of physical therapy and then.
 

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a good portion of the work piece edge can be cut off at the table saw prior to using the bit on the router table. Extend the life of your cutting edge and save yourself some time. Create an edge on a scrap piece of work, from there you can get a good idea of how much you can remove at the tablesaw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Bill I don't follow what you're saying. Typically I mill my wood to the needed size and then cut the boards for the drawers to size before routing any edges. If I'm using the table saw for the bottom shelf slot I may cut that first which helps in remembering which is inside and bottom orientation.
 

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Bill I don't follow what you're saying. Typically I mill my wood to the needed size and then cut the boards for the drawers to size before routing any edges. If I'm using the table saw for the bottom shelf slot I may cut that first which helps in remembering which is inside and bottom orientation.
hog the router cut out on the TS 1st...
 
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a good portion of the work piece edge can be cut off at the table saw prior to using the bit on the router table. Extend the life of your cutting edge and save yourself some time. Create an edge on a scrap piece of work, from there you can get a good idea of how much you can remove at the tablesaw.
Steve what the guys are saying is that you can reduce the load on bit and router by first cutting a 45 degree bevel on your board on the saw, taking care not to cut the full thickness of the board, I.e. leaving a thin facet at the top, to ride against the router fence. Otherwise, you would be pulverizing more than the thickness of your board with the router bit (because of the hypotenuse), with all the dust that flesh is heir to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Steve what the guys are saying is that you can reduce the load on bit and router by first cutting a 45 degree bevel on your board on the saw, taking care not to cut the full thickness of the board, I.e. leaving a thin facet at the top, to ride against the router fence. Otherwise, you would be pulverizing more than the thickness of your board with the router bit (because of the hypotenuse), with all the dust that flesh is heir to.
OK now I get it. Sometimes I need a picture, more coffee, my meds, and then some more pictures and coffee. That makes perfect sense and I'll be sure to try that. I agree that make less aggressive cuts can only help. Thanks for spelling it out for me.
 

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What about accuracy Stick, a router bit is accurate and NON-ADJUSTABLE, a table saw is adjustable and therefor can be a whisker out.
 

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What about accuracy Stick, a router bit is accurate and NON-ADJUSTABLE, a table saw is adjustable and therefor can be a whisker out.

all you are doing is hogging away material giving the lock miter bit less to cut..
 

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Harry, I’m with Stick on this. Removing the excess stock does not require infinite accuracy - that will be supplied by the lock mitre bit itself. Using a 90 degree V bit will still mean pulverizing all the wood below the diagonal. Easier and quicker with a saw, especially if doing long boards.
 

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I tried the saw once and it didn't leave a perfect point which meant that the lock mitre wasn't perfect so I have never used the saw again for this purpose.
 

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perfect point... once...
do you mean toe???
if so, you took off too much...
try it again Harry..
 

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Why should I take a chance when I have a perfect method. In any case you prove my point that because the saw is adjustable, it's possible for the average amateur to be a touch out, but not with my method!
 
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