[sreilly]

So I finally found a source for Baltic Birch plywood in 1/2" and 3/4" but they're in 5'x5' sheets. So layout will take more thought as I'm used to 4'x8' sheets. But I digress, what I'm mostly interested in is how well the lock miter bit will work on 1/2 Baltic plywood. I tried it on the box store's plywood and it was disastrous. The tear out was horrible all along the cut but I'm wondering if it was because of the quality of the plywood. I also have both the 1/2" and 3/4" Infinity Tools Lapped Miter Joint Router Bit which I suspect may work well on plywood drawers? Any feedback on if Baltic plywood will yield better results and if the Lapped Miter Joint Router Bit might be a good choice as well?

If this works well I may try my hand at using some Baltic Birch on the PC dovetail jig.

 

[sreilly]

Thanks guys. This will be my first try with Baltic, that's once I get there to pick some up, so now it's way up on my list. I'll get a few 1/2" sheets and one 3/4" to wet my feet and see how things go. I've got a built-in panty that needs to be built. Right now it's a walk-in closet with a upright freezer and a few cheap plastic self standing shelf units. I envision base cabinets with adjustable shelves above with yet again more cabinets above for the need to have but seldom used goods. It can be so much more than it is now and I promised her I would build it.....another month or two of physical therapy and then.

 

[sreilly]

Bill I don't follow what you're saying. Typically I mill my wood to the needed size and then cut the boards for the drawers to size before routing any edges. If I'm using the table saw for the bottom shelf slot I may cut that first which helps in remembering which is inside and bottom orientation.

 

[sreilly]

Steve what the guys are saying is that you can reduce the load on bit and router by first cutting a 45 degree bevel on your board on the saw, taking care not to cut the full thickness of the board, I.e. leaving a thin facet at the top, to ride against the router fence. Otherwise, you would be pulverizing more than the thickness of your board with the router bit (because of the hypotenuse), with all the dust that flesh is heir to.

OK now I get it. Sometimes I need a picture, more coffee, my meds, and then some more pictures and coffee. That makes perfect sense and I'll be sure to try that. I agree that make less aggressive cuts can only help. Thanks for spelling it out for me.

 

[sreilly]

Wouldn't it be more accurate to do that on the router table?

I hadn't seen this when I replied to Biagio and now I have a picture to boot. Thanks Harry. Seriously, sometimes I really do need it spelled out and a picture never hurts......

 

[sreilly]

Now that's a fine looking box Harry. I'll certainly try several methods but my first box was done with only the bit and it was a box with trays to hold my table saw blades. I made it with 3/4" plywood and the joint indeed hid the bare plywood edges. Made a nice looking shop box. I did order the Infinity setup jigs mainly to save a ton of time and get either dead on or very close on initial setup. I'll report back after I get them and my PT releases me to get back in the shop. I still have very restrictive movements with that new shoulder although it's far better then day one was....seems the first range of motion to return was hand to mouth and then the ability to blow my nose, go figure......itching to do more than walk through the shop.