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13 Posts
Does anyone have a tried and true way to set them. There are a multitude of ways suggested to set them. None seem simple.
Don H.
Don H.
Lock Miter Bits
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Hi Don
None are simple because this is one hard bit to setup and use, and you will make some fire wood just about every time you use it.
Not all stock is the same thickness and that's where the error comes into place you can make some setup blocks out of 3/4" MDF stock that will help with the setup next time you use the bit BUT most 3/4" stock is not true 3/4" thick, but the setup blocks will help.
NOTE**** Do the hard one 1st. (the vertically member ) once it's set right DON'T move the bit up or down or move the fence and the flat pass member should come out right on the button.
Note **** It needs to come to a SHARP point on both members of the joint, you can sand it just a bit after the joint is glued up or you can use a 1/8" round over bit to get a nice clean look to the joint, that's if it's not a plywood stock.
Here's some links to a Show-and-Tell how to set the bit up and how to use it.
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-lm1.htm
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-lm5.htm
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/clock-4.htm
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-lm7.htm
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/smfld-8.htm
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/golfrk1.htm
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the best one I have found on the NET ▼
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-sop-1.htm
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Hope this helps have fun,it's a great bit once you get the hang of it.
DON****
Sommerfeld tools makes a jig to setup the Lock Miter bit (called EZSet) quick and easy,it's about 30.oo bucks but it can also be used for other bits as well.
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/item.asp?n=EZSET&f=1
Bj
None are simple because this is one hard bit to setup and use, and you will make some fire wood just about every time you use it.
Not all stock is the same thickness and that's where the error comes into place you can make some setup blocks out of 3/4" MDF stock that will help with the setup next time you use the bit BUT most 3/4" stock is not true 3/4" thick, but the setup blocks will help.
NOTE**** Do the hard one 1st. (the vertically member ) once it's set right DON'T move the bit up or down or move the fence and the flat pass member should come out right on the button.
Note **** It needs to come to a SHARP point on both members of the joint, you can sand it just a bit after the joint is glued up or you can use a 1/8" round over bit to get a nice clean look to the joint, that's if it's not a plywood stock.
Here's some links to a Show-and-Tell how to set the bit up and how to use it.
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-lm1.htm
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-lm5.htm
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/clock-4.htm
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-lm7.htm
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/smfld-8.htm
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/golfrk1.htm
----------------
----------------
the best one I have found on the NET ▼
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-sop-1.htm
-----------------
----------------
Hope this helps have fun,it's a great bit once you get the hang of it.
DON****
Sommerfeld tools makes a jig to setup the Lock Miter bit (called EZSet) quick and easy,it's about 30.oo bucks but it can also be used for other bits as well.
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/item.asp?n=EZSET&f=1
Bj
Attachments
I have used this type of bit before and once setup correctly, loved it. As said previously, set up and stock thickness is the key to success. I think that I got instructions either off of the woodline or MLCS website. It was a copy of an article from a magazine.
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2,392 Posts
I think one of the Keys is:Don Hurley said:
Once you have fiddled, etc. to get the joint just PERFECT, take a small block of wood and make a cut in it along a side. Be sure to label it!
Then, when you want to do it again, adjust the bit to fit into the slot of your saved block... adjust the fence too... and you should be back, ready to do it again.
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
