this bit (Freud 50-501) may be just barely long enough, I would need to get an initial pass using the pattern for the cutout, and then remove and continue the cutout using the first pass as the pattern for the bottom half of the wood...

Edit: This is not going to work as I need a dedicated top bearing bit with cutter extending to bottom of bit. The more I research the more I'm starting to realize that I need to step up to a router with 1/2 collet.

 

Any experience with the SCT888 bits? They make a 4 piece set that includes a (1/4" Shank 1-1/2" Blade 3/4" Cutting Diameter Top Bearing Bit)....That is about the best I can find...3/4" diameter blade on 1/4" shaft seems a bit iffy.

 

Why risk bustin' a cutter? Get a bigger router.

 

Hear, here, that's the way to go.

 

Final thoughts, I could get a universal baseplate along with guide bushings and a 2 inch straight cut bit on 1/4 shank. This in theory should work. Would run me about $55 for all the parts. The offset shouldn't affect me much.

 

$55...until you bend or break the cutter. !/4" shank is too fragile for what you want to do.
Listen to 'Quillman' (Pat Warner); he's very experienced.
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Well I appreciate the advice. I was hoping I could make something work with what I have. I'm just getting my feet wet in the routing world, and I am sure I would have one day purchased a better router. I'll go ahead and bite the bullet now. Think I'll go with the Bosch 1617 with the CMT 2" long flush trim bit. That should get me going and be something I can play with a lot more in the future. Guess I'll just have the Ryobi for backup.

 

Welcome Snorton. If you can flip the counter top over then you could use a 1 to 1 1/4" long pattern bit for the top side and then use a bottom bearing flush trim bit from the other side. I don't like routing 2" thick material with a 1/2 shank bit, never mind a 1/4" one. Many people who buy their first router for some reason think it's best to start small but wind up with the type problem you are having. Your first router should be a minimum 2 1/2 hp plunge then you can add a small router later for jobs that don't require one that big.

Have you done any research on using an undermount sink with a wooden counter top? Generally undermounts go under something that is impervious to water such as resin or granite. Putting one under a wooden top doesn't sound like a good idea to me but I'm not familiar with rubber wood's properties.

 

I guess we all assume you are doing this on the work bench and not in place on the cabinet, huh?

 

Oh nice, I hadn't even thought about doing it that way. I have lots of scrap 2" inch board to practice on before taking on the real cut. I may try that method and see how it performs. If it fails I'll go with the Bosch. There are quite a bit of undermount wooden countertops out there that seem to be holding up. I'm going to be putting quite a bit of waterlox sealer on the wood. It should stop any water from getting in the grain. My initial purchase of the ryobi router was for putting an edge on the wood. Once I started researching how to cut out the sink it opened up this can of worms. I like your idea though. Rubber wood is a hardwood but its only a little harder than Cedar from my understanding so it isn't too bad to cut.

 

This is a brand new install. All cutting and routing is done in my garage.

 

Great choice with the Bosch 1617EVSPK
The PK part means it comes complete with both a fixed base and a plunge base...you will eventually (more like right away) want the plunge base so might as well jump in the deep end, eh?

 

+1 What Dan said.

EVSPK = Electronic variable Speed Package

The fixed base works great mounted under a router table. The plunge base is great for hand held operations.

 

Hi snorton. Welcome to our little corner of the 'net.

Please listen to the warnings about the 1/4" shank bits... they are fine for a lot of uses, but not this one.

 

Hi snorton, why don't you use a Jigsaw for the cutting & tidy the outcome with your router.Whatever you do--GO SLOW.

 

I appreciate all of the tips guys. What Cherryville Chuck said really makes sense to me. I purchased both a top bearing flush trim bit and also a bottom bearing flush trim bit. This will all me to reach my required 2" cut while at the same time only knocking out about 1" per cut as to not over stress the router. I did a practice cut and it worked pretty good. Although this is not ideal it will allow me to get the job completed without throwing more money at it. I'm hoping. I made a template out of some scrap 1/4" plywood. It is flush to the sink. I will do an initial rough cut with a jigsaw and follow up the edge with the router along the template. Flip the board and use the previous router cut with the bottom bearing bit to finish the other half. I'll live with the results regardless, but i'm hoping for the best.

 

Just wanted to thank everyone for posting and helping me out. I got the cut done. I'll be installing over the weekend. Hopefully it all fits nicely.