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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
At the monment I have a tiny shop (when I will get rich and famos things will shange) witch is about 18' long. One part of my bussines is to repair old windows. I use router to cut of the possible rot. I have a thougt what would be the best solution for a table type. The longest sections might be 5-7' long. I think that i don't have the space for an ordinary table mounted router.
Do you guys (and girls) have any thougts about the best solution. Skis are out because I need straight, repetedly, lines on the frame without any tiny marks on the surface. As you all know, the amounth of dust is hughe if you dont have a vac atachment on your router, so that is allso a thing to solve. if I go to elu/dewalt dealer to buy a vac at. to my elu they will sharge me more or less 80usd...
Did you got any ideas
 

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At the monment I have a tiny shop (when I will get rich and famos things will shange) witch is about 18' long. One part of my bussines is to repair old windows. I use router to cut of the possible rot. I have a thougt what would be the best solution for a table type. The longest sections might be 5-7' long. I think that i don't have the space for an ordinary table mounted router.
Do you guys (and girls) have any thougts about the best solution. Skis are out because I need straight, repetedly, lines on the frame without any tiny marks on the surface. As you all know, the amounth of dust is hughe if you dont have a vac atachment on your router, so that is allso a thing to solve. if I go to elu/dewalt dealer to buy a vac at. to my elu they will sharge me more or less 80usd...
Did you got any ideas
Yes. If you're still in that 4'x5' space you listed with a 7' ceiling and you being over 6', you are hard pressed to get you and your tools in there, let alone a 7' window.

Now if you finished the 8'x18' shed, then you have some possibilities. You're planning on how to set that up?

Sounds like a router table would help out with what you do. 5' to 7' pieces are not real long pieces for a standard size router table.

For what you're doing and in planning that out, first I would plan on shelves to get your tools and equipment on the walls so you have more room to work. I would plan on making "things" do multiple jobs. For instance, you probably need a workbench for teardown and assembly. It could also double as a cut table and a router table.

If a router table as a separate unit, you could make that and a workbench at the same height so you can support work using both. Using one of your routers in a table, doesn't mean you lose that router as a hand-held, if you plan for it to be removable.

If not a router table, you could make jigs. Then the jigs need to be stored somewhere.

You could go a lot of different ways. The way for me to decide on things like that is to list what I need to do. What is the best way to do it within my means. If I can do something fast, with quality results and I don't have to struggle to get there... Then it's time well spent to set up for that.
 

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It doesn't sound like what you are routing should take too long. If that is the case than I would build a portable table that you could set up outside on something like saw horses. You wouldn't have to worry about space or dust.
 

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I do exactly as Robert stated, in my little 10x16 shop. My table saw sits in front of a window, and the saws legs are spaced where as the table is flush with my window sill. If it's nothing critical, I saw and let if fall out the window onto the grass. Otherwise, I get my wife to grab it as it goes outside. She just loves doing that job... LOL
 

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The part about "Finland" may have slipped under the radar...
Seasons in Finland - Ilmatieteen laitos
Finland's climate approximates that of the Yukon; working outdoors for 1/2 the year is a non-starter.
Mike's thoughts on getting into the new, as yet unfinished, 8'x 18' shop makes absolute sense. Esko is beating his head against the wall(s), literally.
Drop what you're doing, Esko, and get that new shop done. You've still got two months.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks Dan for saveing me from this topic...
In the summer it's more than nice to work outdoors but 4 months of snow an ice and temperatures even as cold as
-27,4F. No way!
I don't know the climate in your hometown but I can tell you that working or walking for two hours outside in +35,6F, barehanded, it's hard or allmost impossible to open a zipper. Let allone doing some accurate work. Thank's for your thoughts, Robert, Art and Lee, but the climate is just too cold here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That seasons in Finland looked quite bad. It remained me of some facts : (
"Drop what you're doing, Esko, and get that new shop done. You've still got two months."
I think you have a point there, Dan
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You know Mike, the best thing with a forum like tis, in my opinnion, is a stimulative conversation. Ofcourse I have things in mind what a shop should be, but when an other pro gives hints and tips, I'm listening. Thank's for your words.
The thing with the router table (I have the topic of it somewhere) is that when I restore window frames, the measures of the replaced part is bigger than the original. I use the original part of the frame as a template to how to rout the new part... So in my thoughts the routerbit has to be abowe the frame, and ordinary routertable is out of question. Do you get the picture?
 

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You know Mike, the best thing with a forum like tis, in my opinnion, is a stimulative conversation. Ofcourse I have things in mind what a shop should be, but when an other pro gives hints and tips, I'm listening. Thank's for your words.
The thing with the router table (I have the topic of it somewhere) is that when I restore window frames, the measures of the replaced part is bigger than the original. I use the original part of the frame as a template to how to rout the new part... So in my thoughts the routerbit has to be abowe the frame, and ordinary routertable is out of question. Do you get the picture?
Hei Tiny

My shop is 16 x 20 and is not too difficult to heat in winter and not too small to work in. I would strongly suggest making your's wider or taller. You need the extra space for storage. My tools are all on casters and roll from the walls to the middle for use and then back to the wall for storage. You're going to have to build a central table and put and remove your tools from there. You will need space to store those tools. Even putting a loft above will help.

For your router, skis are the primary answer. However, modify your use by fixing the skis to a rail. Use one side of the rail as a fence and the other side to lock the skis. My ski table is setup for this and it should not be difficult for you to do the same. The alternative is a pivot frame but you would need a long table for that. The hole in the wall is very useful, even in winter. Not good in snow storms -- otherwise perfectly functional. Make the hole as small as you dare. The bigger the hole the more the heat loss.

My ski table is stuck in the shop at the moment. When I get it out I'll post a copy.

BTW, -40C is an annual thing for us. Walking in the forest is beautiful. 10' of snow average annual snowfall. Stepping off the trail is not an option.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks Ron. I have to analyze your information and wait for your pictures : )
Although I'v been reading american woodworking magazines and books from -80s, still some terms aren't too familiar.
My next shop is 50% ready it "just" needs the insulation&floor :cool: and the rest of it. But like one of you pointed me out, "Drop everything else and make the shop ready. You have two months (until the winter and the darkness comes!)"
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm planning to set the 8'x18' shed up so that in the other end 1/3 of the length I have two tables paralel against the wall and hanging wall mounted cabinets so that I have all the needed tools 360deg around me. One table is to repair the work on hand and the other one is to make the pieces for the. The tables wount have to be more than 6-7' long. The floor mounted tools will be in the other end of the shop. Timber will be somewere horisontaly. Vac connections will be in critical places and electric connections will be too. Best solution would be three rooms for stock, painting and carpentry... Let's see when that happens. Maby 2013
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'v done my first prototype of a routertable or how do you call it. Two iron beam 1' apart from each other, paralell. The router travels on top of the beams atached to waterplywood. I have two of those. They are about 25(10")x 60(2')cm. My Elu is atached straight on top of it and the other one (just bought a Biltema router 1200w for 40e. It has guaranty so I'm not woried) atached to the plywood in about 19 deg. angle.
 

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