I have two Bosch 1617, one was a kit with fixed and plunge base. Both bases are very useful. The 1617 also has a very inexpensive base for mounting in a table. Table routing is the safest way to use this tool, but the plunge base is generally preferable for hand routung. Current price for the kit is about $220. Far more expensive to buy parts of the kit one at a time.
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Bosch also makes an accessory base just for mounting in a table. It has a key the protrudes above the mounting plate so you can fine adjust height from above the table, which is very convenient. The 1617 has 2.25hp, plenty of power for almost any project. Cost is about $60 for the base RA 1165, on Amazon. Here's a picture:
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Making a router table is not particularly difficult. I'd build it with some very flat ply, a half inch layer on top of a 3.4 inch layer. Glued and screwed together after you cut a hole in the thin layer just the size of the router plate. Cut a matching hole in the second layer that's half an inch smaller all round than the top. This will leave you with a lip on which you can rest the plate. The plate is usually aluminum, and many are available already drilled for the 1617. Here is a picture of a base plate by Kreg. Get one with a twist lock insert, not the old 3 screw type inserts.
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You must level the plate with the top of the table, to do this you can either use wood screws up from the corners of the thicker layer, or pop $20 or so for the Kreg height adjustment set. See picture:
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You can use a very straight, very flat piece of 2x6 for a fence. Cut an opening for the bit to fit in, in the middle. You can find an old table, remove its top and mount your new router table on it, or buy a stand (Harbor Freight has them fairly cheap and sometimes on sale.) Or, just sling it across a couple of saw horses. If your short on space, the top and fence can rest on its edge somewhere. Routers produce copious amounts of hard on the lungs sawdust. Wear a mask, but you can also pop for $8 or so for a dust collection port you screw onto the back of the fence. Most woodworking stores and sites have these.
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I buy bits as I need them, but a starter kit of roundover bits is something you'll use a lot. An edge trimming bit is useful, and you'll want to consider a bit to route grooves or dados. Grooves are generally stopped and do not go from edge to edge. Dados generally go all the away across the workpiece. I actually prefer to cut dados and grooves with what's called a Mortising bit. One 3/4 inch long, half inch wide mortising bit is my favorite for this because it leaves a very flat bottom. Here are a couple of pictures. 1 the roundover set, but get the half inch shaft (shank) size, they're more rugged.
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2 The Mortising bit I like to use:
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3 Flush trim bit with bottom mounted bearing that follows your straight edge guide.
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4 Illustration of the anatomy of a bit, just FYI because top and bottom are a bit confusing.
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Here is a chart of many of the different profiles you can make with different bits. And that doesn't include sets for making cabinet doors, or the special bits you use for making dovetail joints.
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I hope all this is useful for you.
