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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all!

I am looking to find router table/assembly that is similar to the one in the below photo. the key to the router is that there is a guide that floats above the router blade. The head that holds the guide pivots upward to allow you to plunge material over the blade. It needs to be available in the US that's the one issue I'm having.

Thank you for your help!

KCount

 

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Hello and welcome to the router forum.
What you are looking at is called pin routering
 

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This is from the pdf from Veritas on their pin router attachment. Starting on page 11, there is a detailed explanation of what it does. It allows you to follow a template placed on top of the table without doing any damage to the template. The router bit is mounted in a plunge base and that mounts under the table. You can plunge upward as needed. The pin coming down from the top tracks the template so you can cut gradually through the workpiece without risking damage to the template. It is a very safe approach since the bit is buried in the workpiece. I had heart the term, but didn't really understand it til reading this.

The following are illustrations from the pdf. I found this very interesting.
Photo one is an exploded drawing of the device. It fits any table.
Photo two is how to copy an object.
Photo three is how to use a template to cut a positive shape.
Photo four shows how to tape the template reversed to form a negative or recessed letter.
 

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Isnt that just a very expensive way of doing the same job a bearing guided flush trim bit?
I think there are a few tasks where this would be a good choice, for example, copying a solid object. The bearing is so narrow that you'd have trouble making it run on the edge of the object, particularly if the object had a narrow edge...it would require that you make the whole cut in one pass, and you would have to mount the object an exact height to have the bearing run on the edge. You'd need a pretty long flush trim bit .

This device also allows you to work the bit up through the workpiece in shallow, multiple steps, even poke it up through the workpiece. Because the bit never touches the template, you can do things such as routing the interior of a letter. I can see that you could even make signs using this with wooden letters you might find at a crafts store. Just make a shallow plunge with a small cove or V bit with the lettering backwards. In some ways the method and tool is very similar to a CNC, except the workpiece moves, not the motor.

Note the extra pins that come with this, that's so you can match the diameter of the pin to the diameter of the bit. Small bits (1/4 inch) are not as strong and should be used only for shallow plunges. If I had one, I'd likely build a separate table so I didn't have to align it every single time. I think you could facilitate alignment with a right angle piece of hardwood. Push it against the bit and the same-size top pin And I'd dedicate a router to it for the same reason.

I can see this would be a great choice for certain applications But I'm not going to buy one. Beside all that, Veritas tools are precise and beautiful. Cost is $175, however, the Veritas product is no longer available.

A search showed a less elegant version, the Daisy Pin Router Attachment, $50 for a kit at Best Sellers - Daisy Pin Router Attachment Packages They have a selection of sizes of spiral bits as well, which are NOT cheap.

This has run a little long, but it was very interesting tool and method.

I'd love to see what @OutoftheWoodwork would do with this thing.
 

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I had the MCLS one for several years and liked it, now have the Veritas one and it is very good too.
Veritas® Pin Router Arm - Lee Valley Tools

The advantage of these over the common bowl set-up is that they can be set up on a router table and the template attached to the bottom of the bowl and the bit raised in increments to deepen the cut.
Also the router doesn't require a oversized base plate, or bit extender for bowl cutting.
For edge cutting the bit doesn't have to have a guide bearing as the template is on the top and guided by the over arm pin.

Herb
 

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My set up is just the opposite. The router mounts in an arm and the pins are screwed into the table.
Either way, they are quite handy gadgets.
 
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@Gene Howe Look on the bottom of the linked page, it says the Veritas is no longer available. The more I think about it, the more interesting this gadget becomes. I think I would definitely dedicate a smallish table to the Daisy unit so I wouldn't have to set it up every time. The Veritas has an adjustable clamp, but the daisy can either be screwed down, or clamped down. Again, I would like to see what @OutoftheWoodwork (Barb) would do with this.
 

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Isnt that just a very expensive way of doing the same job a bearing guided flush trim bit?
That, and because I prefer to make tools if I can, is why if I wanted one I would make one.
 

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That, and because I prefer to make tools if I can, is why if I wanted one I would make one.
I think this would be fairly easy to make, and you could use drill bits as pins. But less than $50 is really cheap for the Daisy. And it has a variety of pins available.
 

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This one is very similar to my set up.
Machine Tool Table
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thank you for all your help!

Thank you all! Its great communities like this that make life all the better.

I have been hitting one dead end after another since I started looking for an answer to my problem. I have just gotten back from a training program where, as luck would have it, the tool we were all trained on is no longer made and was only available in in a small area of France.

While I'll be cutting acetate to make eye wear the number of cross over tools is staggering.

Again, thank you for your help.

Kevin
 

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Gene,
On the one pictured is the work piece stationary and the arm move around or the other way around?

Herb
Herb, the guide pin is in the table. So, the work is attached to a pattern and the pattern is moved around the pin. My pins are about 3/8 tall. The smallest one is is 1/4" diameter. They go up to 1/2". I use the same diameter router bit that matches the pin.
My patterns are all homemade. I've never done any stock thicker than 1 1/2".
 
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Welcome to the forum Kevin.
 

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What distinguishes either top or bottom mounted router, is that the router is stationary, and the operator moves the work.
 

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@Gene Howe Look on the bottom of the linked page, it says the Veritas is no longer available. The more I think about it, the more interesting this gadget becomes. I think I would definitely dedicate a smallish table to the Daisy unit so I wouldn't have to set it up every time. The Veritas has an adjustable clamp, but the daisy can either be screwed down, or clamped down. Again, I would like to see what @OutoftheWoodwork (Barb) would do with this.
No telling, Tom... So sorry, guys I'm terribly lacking on here in the past months... three weeks after Christmas, my motor went on my Ford, I'm trying to get a new job so I can keep the Ford and get it a motor, and keep the Silverado we got to replace said Ford.... been a mess.

I'll have to try and go to the top of this thread and see what all the hoopla is about. Bare with me, gang. My head is a spinning right now.

Love to all
 

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No telling, Tom... So sorry, guys I'm terribly lacking on here in the past months... three weeks after Christmas, my motor went on my Ford, I'm trying to get a new job so I can keep the Ford and get it a motor, and keep the Silverado we got to replace said Ford.... been a mess.

I'll have to try and go to the top of this thread and see what all the hoopla is about. Bare with me, gang. My head is a spinning right now.

Love to all
Good to hear from you Barb, I have been wondering about you, haven't seen any activity from your way. As long as it is the motor in the Ford and not the Motor In Barb, everything is fine. :grin::grin:
Herb
 
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