[Stick486]

John, I'm not sure what you're referring to. Do you have any specifics about the framing gizmo?

look for the lion miter trimmer/knife threads...
http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/90322-lion-mitre-knife-goes-under-knife.html
http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/85705-miter-trimmer.html
http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/89185-finished-my-lazy-susan.html
http://www.routerforums.com/starting-off/39662-accuracy-general-hints-tips.html

if I was a betting man man ...
your blade has wobble - needs stiffeners or the arbor is sloppy..
and it isn't absolute 90° to the table..

 

[Stick486]

Thanks everyone for your thoughts.

1.... The Lion Miter Trimmer looks like a fine tool but I can't justify the price for as seldom as I would use it.
2.... I like the idea of the 22.5 deg chamfer bit but I'm not sure how to safely use the router with the small pieces.

Stick, you've always got a myriad of good ideas and I appreciate that.

3... I checked the blade angle with my Wixey and it shows to be right on 90 degrees.
4... There doesn't seem to be any play between the blade and arbor. Is there a way I can check for wobble?
5... I'm using a Freud Industrial Glue-line blade, 1/8" kerf.

1... once you get your hands on one.. there's no going back... LeeValley has one that is almost as good as the Lion and better than the Grizz.. you'll find you'll you'll use it for much more than..
2... small parts holders and/or a sled..
3... zero the wixey on the table and not the plate away from the blade in several locations then check your blade w/o changing any settings....
same for the throat plate..
also check the face of the miter gauge for 90° to the table...
you're looking for table and throat plate flatness...
4... Table Saw Test 2: Checking Arbor Flange and Saw Blade Run-Out | In-Line Industries
and of course there is YouTube...
make sure your arbor washers are clean and flat...
5... good blade.. add stiffeners just the same..
swap for a full kerf blade and test on some scrap...

 

[Stick486]

a better way to go and it's invaluable...

Veritas® Poly-Gauge - Lee Valley Tools


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[Stick486]

your miter gauge is sloppy in the the miter slot...
if you are using the take up washers it is sloppy... remove them...
layer the side of the bar w/ UHMW tape till you get a snug fit.. problem fixed forever...

Self Adhesive Tape UHMW 3/4"X6' | Klingspor's Woodworking Shop

adding a layer of 3'' wide to your fence is a giant step forward..
adding a layer of 100 grit PSA sandpaper to the face of your miter is a plus too..
no PSA paper...
use contact cement ot a dry rub on glue stick...

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[Stick486]

Maybe it is just the picture, but it looks like the small pieces on the left hand side are longer than the right hand ones.

Herb

pay heed here...
off by a 32nd adds up big time... even a 64th will do it...

 

[Stick486]

more points...
always work w/ the same side up and same edge to the miter gauge.. avoid flipping the piece over...
a shooting board may be your answer over a miter trimmer...

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[Stick486]

ding...
I can see this now...
you cut the leg of the frame at 22.5...
roll the piece over and cut again.......................................
so..........
any amount you are off in any plane or direction on the st cut is doubled on the 2nd cut...
it all adds up very quickly...
keep doing your cuts this way and you are just compounding problems...

 

[Stick486]

if the two edges are not parallel or the piece isn't perfectly straight getting where you want to be is very difficult...
consider a second miter gauge... one for each side of the blade and you won't be rolling/flipping the piece over but the two edges in parallel and straight is an absolute must...

 

[Stick486]

yur shooting board...
do not use MDF... over time thinks and hardware holding power will fail...
use a LA plane w/ it because of the end grain...
make sure there is no sawdust build up against the fence...
trim one end of every piece...
set a stop block to control length to maintain lengths...
use your clamp to hold the piece... more fool proof..
I like this style...

 

[Stick486]

Thanks again Stick. I didn't know what an LA plane was and my first google attempt tried put me on a plane to Los Angeles. Then I tried LA Wood Plane and found out it stands for low angle. I'm almost afraid to ask you for a reasonably priced recommendation because you seem to deal in only the highest quality stuff. But I'll give it a try. Can you recommend a reasonably priced LA plane such as the least expensive one that you would still recommend?

not so.. best value and what will be in service decades from now 8is what I prefer......
I never think w/ my wallet but I don't loose sight of it either....
but I do like my Veritas...
there's lots of choices... nothing wrong w/ a Stanley, Record or a Woodriver V3 (version #3)... V1 and 2 leave a lot to be desired...
stay away from Asian and Mexican manufacture.. Leave the sweethearts by Stanley alone too...
up grade the iron...
Blades - Lee Valley Tools
a jack or smoother will work nicely for a shooting board.. I think a block plane is a tad short in the nose for this job...

make sure the sole is flat...
make sure the sole is square to the sides..
make sure the adjustment work solidly w/o slop..
put the plane up against something solid and push hard... if the plane has points that dig into yur hand.. pass on it...

and before I forget...
get yourself a set of 30/60/45 drafting squares... small and large...


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