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Discussion Starter #1
I couldn't resist and ordered one of the Hitachi routers you guys seemed to use often in the episodes I've been seeing on woodworkingchannel.com I've since learned that there are some tabs in the throat of the router that are going to get in the way when raising panels with 3 1/4" bits. I've heard about people grinding those tabs off or leaving the bit at normal height and just easing into the cut adjusting the fence rather than raising the bit height gradually. I know you also yanked the springs out of yours from other discussions. Any comments about the router and suggestions on how to get the most out of it? I plan to run it in my router table.
 

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Hi Paul

1st the springs,,, If you are going to use the router in your table most of the time it's best to remove them ,but put them back in the box that the router came in for safe keeping,with the springs removed it will let you move the router up or down under the table top easy or on the table top if you use the RWS way.

Remove tabs from router base,,,,I would not as you know once you do that it's done and can't get them back.
You may want to use it for a hvy.duty plunge router with the brass guides and you can't if the tabs are gone.

Raised panels,,,,,,most of the time you will want to make Arched Raised Panels and you can't use the fence ,or to say you can only use the fence on 3 sides of the panel and the 4th one (Arched) must be freee hand with a safety pin.
Most of the time you will have the room to drop the bit down just a bit and make the 1st cut and then move it up for the last cut.
On some Raised Panel bits come with a under cut bit (so it will fit in the door slot) this type of bit can't be moved up or down.
Marc Sommerfeld (of sommerfeldtools) came up a neat way to get around this with one large bearing and small bearing that you can use for this type on bit.

Just NOTE***if you buy the T&G set from sommerfeldtools (cabinet T&G set) it will come with the HARD TO FIND LARGE Bearing that you can use on most panel bits with the under cut bit on them.
It comes with the T&G set and will let you cut a 1/4" deep slot or a standard 7/16" deep slot, it also comes with the 19mm bearing with shims.
When you use the large bearing on the panel bits it will take a about a 1/2" to 3/4" deep cut (1st pass) and then when you put the standard bearing back on you can make the last past .
The T & G set is about 100.oo bucks and worth every dime,just for that LARGE Bearing...
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?id=202

You make one pass with the large bearing and then put the small one on .
You can also make a sub base jig with a 4" hole in it and clamp or screw in to the router table top in this way you will have the room below the bit so it can spin free, this will let you keep the tabs in place.(3/4" MDF works great for this)

If you don't want to make Arched Raised Panels you can use Vertica bits and it's about 10 times faster than the standard raised panels. see link below.
http://www.routerforums.com/showthread.php?t=2725

Just one more tip about Raised Panels ,sand and stain them b/4 you install them in the door(s) frames ,this will let you glue up the frame and just in case you get some glue on the panel you can just wipe it off and it will give you a nice clean job,the cracks can be a real pain to sand once the door is glued up.
A wipe on stain and sealer works best for me and then a nice clear coat once the cabinet is done. (two coats or more) spay gun type,it will get all the cracks,don't put the back on until you do the last coat this will let the spay flow without runs in side the cabinet or spay it and then put in on the back.

Hope this helps
Bj :)
 

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Here's tought a why not leave them in then you don't need to make one.

Most bits will work just fine the only one that you will have an issue will be the big
3 1/2" panel bits and because you are using it in the router table you may not run into this error at all.
Most of the panel bits are used right at the table top not below it.

Just a tought :)

Bj :)
 

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Hey Paul,

I don't own this style router but I was thinking about getting one and have read the posts about removing the webs and they make sence. You can always get a different sub-base if you want to use guide bushings, in fact that might even work better then the method that is oem on router. My vote is go for it.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also, I suspect I'm going to need to rout a new plate for my router table as this router looks like it will need a larger plate than my standard Rockler one. Is there a reason I wouldn't go with the 11" square one used by Bob and Rick? Is it thick enough to be flat over time? The inserts look like they lock into the plate as opposed to the router itself. Is that correct? Lastly, the main reason I am getting this router for my table is the additional power as compared to my 890 PC which is a bear to use to do raised panels in solid oak. Any feedback?
 

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Paul,

I just ordered and have received the complete Oak-Park system. Very nice indeed and I think I am going to like it over my current Norm style table with the Rockler top. Yes, the inserts do fit in the plate as you stated. I love the simplicity of the way Bob and Rick work in their shows. Having just recieved the M12V as well, I went ahead and ordered a 2nd 11" plate that was available with the larger hole for the big bits. If you are going to go with the 11" Oak-Park plate, you may need to consider this plate for the larger raised panel bits you most likely use for your type of router work.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I see a list of 11" square plates. Which two did you get? Also, are the bushings locking into the plate or the router itself when you use the smaller base plate?
 

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Paul,

You will need the type "B" base plate in both instances. Be sure to specify the M12V when you place your order so they can pre drill it properly for you.

Your guide bushings attach to the small plate itself and not the router.
 

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"Here's thought a why not leave them in then you don't need to make one."


Hmmm someone here doesn't like to much of a challenge.

Really what is to much if it makes your tool easier & more versatile to use?
 

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Hi Originabart

I like a challenge, I just don't like to Take OFF Parts (cut) that can't be put back on.. :)
It tells me I have selected the wrong router for the job if I need to cut parts away to get it to work in a router table,many routers on the market that don't need it.
P.C. for one of them.

I may want to resell it some day..:) and I just cut away 50.oo dollars..and put ears (tabs) in the trash can.


Bj :)
 

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bobj3 said:
Hi Originabart

I like a challenge, I just don't like to Take OFF Parts (cut) that can't be put back on.. :)
It tells me I have selected the wrong router for the job if I need to cut parts away to get it to work in a router table,many routers on the market that don't need it.
P.C. for one of them.

I may want to resell it some day..:) and I just cut away 50.oo dollars..and put ears in the trash can.


Bj :)
But Bob..... that is why routers are like clamps..... you can never have too many :D :D
 

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Hi Bob


hahahahahahaha yep, but I don't cut my clamps off if they are to LONG hahahaha. :) I just get the right one from the get go....
Or I should say I don't buy 6ft. clamps and cut off 12" because that's all I need at the time...and the time will come when I want/need that 12" .


Bj :)
 

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My M12V was free & used & the speed control didn't work I did purchase a few parts for less the 1/2 the cost of the router new. I use a remote speed control that I had in the shop. Yes I did cut the insert ears off of my router when I received this router it didn't have any handles & still doesn't. I don't ever intend to use this beast for hand held use. I have both a fixed speed & adjustable speed Porter Cable 690 routers with all 3 bases & guide fence.

My router table is in the left wing of my Unisaw.

The combined pic shows the saw as I received it & how it looks today. The rest show the saw as it is today as well as showing the router table & fence & the cabinet that goes under the right extension for router accessories & table-saw accessories. The fence plan came from 11/05 Wood magazine. I had to convert from a 3 phase motor to a 1 phase motor. I have about $900 total including the router table, fence & router & insert. I also have the metal to make a mobile base for it.
 

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A very nice set up Bart. I like the job you did grain matching the drawer fronts, a pleasure to view.
 
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