Hi Paul
1st the springs,,, If you are going to use the router in your table most of the time it's best to remove them ,but put them back in the box that the router came in for safe keeping,with the springs removed it will let you move the router up or down under the table top easy or on the table top if you use the RWS way.
Remove tabs from router base,,,,I would not as you know once you do that it's done and can't get them back.
You may want to use it for a hvy.duty plunge router with the brass guides and you can't if the tabs are gone.
Raised panels,,,,,,most of the time you will want to make Arched Raised Panels and you can't use the fence ,or to say you can only use the fence on 3 sides of the panel and the 4th one (Arched) must be freee hand with a safety pin.
Most of the time you will have the room to drop the bit down just a bit and make the 1st cut and then move it up for the last cut.
On some Raised Panel bits come with a under cut bit (so it will fit in the door slot) this type of bit can't be moved up or down.
Marc Sommerfeld (of sommerfeldtools) came up a neat way to get around this with one large bearing and small bearing that you can use for this type on bit.
Just NOTE***if you buy the T&G set from sommerfeldtools (cabinet T&G set) it will come with the HARD TO FIND LARGE Bearing that you can use on most panel bits with the under cut bit on them.
It comes with the T&G set and will let you cut a 1/4" deep slot or a standard 7/16" deep slot, it also comes with the 19mm bearing with shims.
When you use the large bearing on the panel bits it will take a about a 1/2" to 3/4" deep cut (1st pass) and then when you put the standard bearing back on you can make the last past .
The T & G set is about 100.oo bucks and worth every dime,just for that LARGE Bearing...
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?id=202
You make one pass with the large bearing and then put the small one on .
You can also make a sub base jig with a 4" hole in it and clamp or screw in to the router table top in this way you will have the room below the bit so it can spin free, this will let you keep the tabs in place.(3/4" MDF works great for this)
If you don't want to make Arched Raised Panels you can use Vertica bits and it's about 10 times faster than the standard raised panels. see link below.
http://www.routerforums.com/showthread.php?t=2725
Just one more tip about Raised Panels ,sand and stain them b/4 you install them in the door(s) frames ,this will let you glue up the frame and just in case you get some glue on the panel you can just wipe it off and it will give you a nice clean job,the cracks can be a real pain to sand once the door is glued up.
A wipe on stain and sealer works best for me and then a nice clear coat once the cabinet is done. (two coats or more) spay gun type,it will get all the cracks,don't put the back on until you do the last coat this will let the spay flow without runs in side the cabinet or spay it and then put in on the back.
Hope this helps
Bj
1st the springs,,, If you are going to use the router in your table most of the time it's best to remove them ,but put them back in the box that the router came in for safe keeping,with the springs removed it will let you move the router up or down under the table top easy or on the table top if you use the RWS way.
Remove tabs from router base,,,,I would not as you know once you do that it's done and can't get them back.
You may want to use it for a hvy.duty plunge router with the brass guides and you can't if the tabs are gone.
Raised panels,,,,,,most of the time you will want to make Arched Raised Panels and you can't use the fence ,or to say you can only use the fence on 3 sides of the panel and the 4th one (Arched) must be freee hand with a safety pin.
Most of the time you will have the room to drop the bit down just a bit and make the 1st cut and then move it up for the last cut.
On some Raised Panel bits come with a under cut bit (so it will fit in the door slot) this type of bit can't be moved up or down.
Marc Sommerfeld (of sommerfeldtools) came up a neat way to get around this with one large bearing and small bearing that you can use for this type on bit.
Just NOTE***if you buy the T&G set from sommerfeldtools (cabinet T&G set) it will come with the HARD TO FIND LARGE Bearing that you can use on most panel bits with the under cut bit on them.
It comes with the T&G set and will let you cut a 1/4" deep slot or a standard 7/16" deep slot, it also comes with the 19mm bearing with shims.
When you use the large bearing on the panel bits it will take a about a 1/2" to 3/4" deep cut (1st pass) and then when you put the standard bearing back on you can make the last past .
The T & G set is about 100.oo bucks and worth every dime,just for that LARGE Bearing...
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?id=202
You make one pass with the large bearing and then put the small one on .
You can also make a sub base jig with a 4" hole in it and clamp or screw in to the router table top in this way you will have the room below the bit so it can spin free, this will let you keep the tabs in place.(3/4" MDF works great for this)
If you don't want to make Arched Raised Panels you can use Vertica bits and it's about 10 times faster than the standard raised panels. see link below.
http://www.routerforums.com/showthread.php?t=2725
Just one more tip about Raised Panels ,sand and stain them b/4 you install them in the door(s) frames ,this will let you glue up the frame and just in case you get some glue on the panel you can just wipe it off and it will give you a nice clean job,the cracks can be a real pain to sand once the door is glued up.
A wipe on stain and sealer works best for me and then a nice clear coat once the cabinet is done. (two coats or more) spay gun type,it will get all the cracks,don't put the back on until you do the last coat this will let the spay flow without runs in side the cabinet or spay it and then put in on the back.
Hope this helps
Bj
