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Magnetic feather board recommendations

3K views 14 replies 10 participants last post by  bfblack 
#1 ·
If there’s one thing I don’t have and could use on occasion, it’s a feather board that can attach to my tablesaw and push horizontally.
I did make a sacrificial fence that has a T track to hold feather boards that push down,but have nothing for sideways .

A quick google search took me here . I like that you can also attach an upper one if you want .
Anyone familiar with this one or have a preference for another brand ?

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...rboards/55999-magswitch-magnetic-featherboard
 

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#2 ·
The only problem I see is how are you going to push the work through the blade. With a wider board you could still push the work through but for narrow boards the upper feather board would be in the way. I have a mag that I use on the end of my long bandsaw fence. I put it on the back side to keep the fence from deflecting during resawing.

Maybe you should try the Gripper system. I use mine all the time on the tablesaw. For narrow cuts you can adjust the center foot to clear the blade. It keeps both sides of the board under control, keeps downward pressure on the board for things like dado cuts. The have alot of accessories and really like mine. Plus it keeps your hands/fingers well above the blade.
 

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#3 ·
I’m going to be pushing 5’ x 5” pieces of lexan length wise over a dado blade ,and I really do not want the material to deviate.
I’m thinking a side feather board would be a good investment.

Btw I bought the gripper a few years back . Strangely I have never removed it from its box
 
#5 ·
I have and use several of these.
I've found that the universal ones a better choice (the ones that have the feathers going both ways). You can easily use them on either side of the blade & easily switch between bandsaw, planer & table saw.
Although I have the pieces to make the setup to hold it down to the table & sidewards to the fence I haven't used it that way b/c I haven't figured out how to get by the vertical hold down safely.

IIRC you can get stronger magnets (sold separately) to increase the holding strength.

recently there was a thread on using a magnetic tool base with a feather board.

https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-wit...rds=magnetic+tool+base&qid=1582548023&sr=8-35
 
#6 ·
most better featherboards can be flipped over to be made to work on the other side of the blade or in the opposite direction...
 
#12 ·

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#13 ·
Those are very useful and the price isn't too bad. I have two that came with the older version of the magnalock feather board. Very easy to make a template to cut out holes for them. I have a couple shop made tools that use them. No pixs though and I'm too lazy to go rummage in the shop right now. You do need to get the height correct (bottom of the lock needs to touch the steel/iron base) so there might need to be an extra template for that. For CNCers, easy enough to make the cutouts. I have that on my list to draw up sometime.
 
#14 ·
I bought the mag switch that works in both directions several years ago and although it was expensive at the time it has been one of the best things I have bought. Use it all the time whereas the ones I have that fit in the mitre slot were not as convenient so didn't use them when I probably should have.
 
#15 ·
I own the following work piece hold down aids:

1. Gripper: I don't use it a lot because it never is setup to do the specific task I want to do NOW. It is a good tool but stopping my work flow to figure out how to setup the Gripper is not my style.

2. Magnetic Feather Board: When I need primarily side pressure to keep stock against the rip fence, this is my go to tool. I use it a lot.

3. Jessum Clear Cut Stock Guide (https://jessem.com/products/clear-cut-ts-stock-guides, not cheap): When you need both a side force and downward force, this is a nice tool. For your job of cutting a dado, this tool will handle your job nicely. The only issue I ever have with this tool is that when you get to the end of the rip, it can be a little awkward getting your push stick in position to complete the rip.
 
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