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magswitch resaw guide.

12K views 21 replies 13 participants last post by  rjtwin501  
#1 ·
Rating 3.5 out of 5

I've been doing a fair amount of resawing lately and built my own resaw fence that works fairly well but in my quest to get even better resawing, I decided to buy this attachment to the magswitch base plate. I really like their feather board and use it all the time on my table saw. Well thought out and super easy to use. Fast setup. I use it all time, more than any other safety device for my table saw. I give it a 5 out of 5 rating so I was pretty much sold on the resaw fence and was thinking that I could switch between the feather board and resaw attachment with ease. The way it's designed, you can adjust for blade drift on the fly. At $26, sounded like a good deal.

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The first disappointment was that there is so much assembly and adjustment that it's not practical to switch the fence with the feather board. I'll need to dedicate the base plate to the resaw fence and buy another for the feather board. Sigh. So much for a good deal. That $26 deal became a $46 cost. I guess I should have thought that one through. For what it's worth, they never SAID you could easily switch between the two. But, I hate being "incremented". I'll take a half point off for that.

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Ok, so onward to assembly. Relatively straightforward though their instructions are pretty poor. No exploded view and not really very clear wording. Parts pictures did not exactly match what was in the package, either. Another half point off.

Got it assembled and mounted it on my bandsaw only to discover that the magswitches that are supposed to hold the base to the steel/iron table are a little too long and the whole assembly moves around when "locked" down. Ugh. I never noticed this before with the feather board in place because it wasn't critical for that application. But in a resaw fence, it absolutely is. I used 6 layers of blue tape to shim it up enough so the magnets pull the base plate tight against the table. Pretty disappointing that it doesn't just work. A full point off.

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I will give them credit for having a halfway decent mechanism for adjusting the fence parallel to the blade. Especially since having to shim it, I made it a little off vertical. So, I got it ready to test out.

My first try didn't go so well but that's my fault for letting the bottom of the board drift a bit. So I clamped a piece of wood to the table to prevent that and resawed a 6" piece of alder. Nice clean job. Being able to change the angle of the board to account for blade drift allowed me to keep it within a 1/16" of my line. Not bad at all.

Then I resawed a piece of 7/8" bubinga. I have been dreading this as it's got some really nice grain and I didn't want to mess it up. I wanted to have 2 3/8" pieces for a box I'm making my wife for Valentines day so the stakes were kind of high. On one edge, I scribed two lines 13/32" from each side of the board. This gave me a 1/16" "channel" for the cut and 1/32" on each side to plane off. Not much margin for error here. With the new fence, I was able to stay between the lines and the cut was so clean, I am tempted to just scrape it down and call it good.

So, once it is set up, it is a really nice resaw fence. Since it works so well, I gave 1/2 point back. But, I really do hate it when a company has a great concept but misses out on some rather obvious issues. MagSwitch should look at Incra to see how it's done.

Even with all my complaints, I recommend this product for resawing. Once you get it working, it really does a good job.

MagSwitch Resaw Attachment 3.5/5.
 
#3 ·
well done write up Phil...
thanks...
 
#4 ·
Thanks Phil! My first attempt at re-sawing yesterday with the 555LX stock fence left a lot to be desired. It was nice and straight but with a two or three degree tilt. What a timely review since I'm on the fence (no pun intended) between MagSwitch, Carter, and just upgrading the Griz fence. You just added another plus to the MagSwitch column, good review!
 
#5 ·
Definitely ditch the griz stock fence for resaw.

One of the things I've learned about resawing is that blade drift is a real PITA. Not only do you need to account for it but it is dependent on the blade and changes as it wears. So you can't just set a fence to the blade drift and leave it. That's why the magswitch fence is so attractive to me. You don't need to determine the drift, just aim the board to cut straight.

Most resaw fences out there are straight (the carter one, for example). They require that you determine the blade drift and set the fence accordingly. I did that with my shopmade fence and it was a hassle. I have little patience for long drawn out set up processes. So I modded my shop made fence to allow me to angle the board - I screwed a 3/4 dowel vertically in the center. That gave me better results as I could aim the board in the direction the blade wanted to go (ie. it's drift). I bought the magswitch one because I thought the bearing wheels would help (they do). The pivoting cut fences really are a good solution.

I would first try to make one to get a better sense of it. Here's one that should work well and be easy to make. Similar to the fence I built.
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If you buy the magswitch one and you don't have the magnets/base plate, you will need to get the switches and base plate plus the fence itself - that's about a $100 total. Kreg has an attachment to their band saw fence that is similar - all in cost is about $120. The carter mag fence is about $100. Funny how they all cost around the same...
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#12 ·
I set up a light at a fairly low angle and can see both the cut and the lines. The big problem for me with long resaws is supporting it when you get close to the end. I use a roller stand but it's still clumsy.
 
#13 ·
set your roller stand or stands where you want it/them...
clamp one end a 2x or an angle iron solidly to the saw's base...
clamp the other end to the roller stand(s) upright(s...
so much for the clumsiness...
 
#15 ·
Nice writeup, Phil...love how you graded each of the aspects...good luck with it.
 
#16 ·
I chose a less expensive and simpler approach with a single piece of 3/4" MDF. But I have a more expensive approach with the saw and blade - Laguna 14 SUV with 1" Resaw King carbide tipped blade.

The resawing I need to do requires precision or I end up wasting some expensive exotic woods for guitar backs/tops/sides. Most of my cuts are in the 0.110" to 0.145" range so I can't afford much in the way of variance. So far I've not detected any blade drift and my cuts are consistent to a few thousandths corner to corner.

Here's a set of Bubinga back plates I just cut. The board was 1.75" x 8.25" x 22" and I cut each piece to 0.115".



Here's my setup -






I don't think I've posted this here (my apology if I have already posted this video), so this is a 2 minute video with some degree of levity where we (me and my favorite shop manager, Sandy) cut some Sinker Mahogany backs/sides off a board 14" x 2" x 29" -

 
#20 ·
I use the snodgrass setup approach regularly and still have drift. I have read many places that it happens as the blade wears and have actually seen that. My 1/2" blade started out with no drift at all.
 
#18 ·
+1 with Ralph...
 
#22 ·
I have had 4 Mag-Switches for a long time but make all my own jigs, feather boards etc.

It is a simple matter of getting the correct size bit and drilling the MagSwitch holes where they are needed. Lots of times I don't bother to screw the switch to the jig, as the jig thickness allows the MagSwitch to hold it down firmly.

A home made jig like Herb's I would make sure the base was the correct thickness and simply drill a hole in each side. If it tends to move around, glue some sand paper to the base.