[Sominus]

I’ve been working with Stick on making saddles for my shop. Here are some pics of the pieces to make an 8x6 saddle with some guiding tips written on the sheet metal.

I will be making templates and better instructions on these, but decided to get these rudimentary photos while I was in my shop. More refined photos, instructions and templates to follow.

 

[DesertRatTom]

Looks like the smaller tabs make it easier to fit to the curve. Is this something you could solder in place?

 

[Sominus]

Looks like the smaller tabs make it easier to fit to the curve. Is this something you could solder in place?

I was thinking about a spot weld or rivets.

 

[DaninVan]

Airtight

Looks like the smaller tabs make it easier to fit to the curve. Is this something you could solder in place?

Absolutely, if you have a tight fit. Gaps would be an issue.
Galv. sht. metal is usually a bit oily so a good wipe down, Acetone, as necessary.

 

[Sominus]

Absolutely, if you have a tight fit. Gaps would be an issue.
Galv. sht. metal is usually a bit oily so a good wipe down, Acetone, as necessary.

After assembly, you would seal this somehow.. Aluminum tape, the blood of politicians, etc...

 

[DaninVan]

Michael; the Pols blood will eventually corrode the metal.

 

[Stick486]

After assembly, you would seal this somehow.. Aluminum tape, the blood of politicians, etc...

butyl rubber caulk..

 

[Sominus]

butyl rubber caulk..

Not the blood of politicians? Darn...>

 

[Stick486]

Not the blood of politicians? Darn...>

decontamination would be real serious issue....

 

[DesertRatTom]

I was thinking that with solder you could seal the joint in one step. Clean it thoroughly, rivit to hold in place, then flux, then solder with a propane torch.

I'm not a fan of caulk in DC piping.

One other question, could you use a nibbling tool to cut that ovoid opening?

 

[Stick486]

I was thinking that with solder you could seal the joint in one step. Clean it thoroughly, rivet to hold in place, then flux, then solder with a propane torch.

I'm not a fan of caulk in DC piping.

solder...
the torch will be too much for the pipe and burn off the galvanizing which will promote corrosion....

caulk...
as long as it's butyl rubber, Vulkem or Hybrid Polyurethane...
works great...

 

[DaninVan]

Ahhh, brings back fond memories of the big soldering irons we heated up in the forges, back in HS.

 

[DaninVan]

Now this is a soldering iron!

 

[Stick486]

the bottom one is a tinners or hand irons...
mostly used on slate roof lead flashing and copper roofs...

 

[Scap]

Also, in case anyone is going the heat/weld route galvanized fumes will make you sick.

If you do this, make sure you have source capture or some way to keep from inhaling the smoke.

 

[Nickp]

I was thinking that with solder you could seal the joint in one step. Clean it thoroughly, rivit to hold in place, then flux, then solder with a propane torch.

I'm not a fan of caulk in DC piping.

One other question, could you use a nibbling tool to cut that ovoid opening?

Interesting point, Tom...what solder do you use on your DC ducting...? And do you solder the pieces together at the joint also or do you tape them...?

 

[Stick486]

Interesting point, Tom...what solder do you use on your DC ducting...? And do you solder the pieces together at the joint also or do you tape them...?

I'd like to know too..

 

[Stick486]

Also, in case anyone is going the heat/weld route galvanized fumes will make you sick.

If you do this, make sure you have source capture or some way to keep from inhaling the smoke.

completely forgot about the hazards of heating/soldering/welding galvanized steel...
BTDT, once, in a former life...
never again...
vaporized zinc coating, and if you breathe in the smoke/fumes, absolutely raises Hades w/ the kidneys and sinuses...
it's called ''Metal Fume Fever''... you will become one sick puppy...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever

 

[DaninVan]

Good to know! I don't think I've ever got it hot enough to do that, but thanks for the warning!

 

[Sominus]

I was thinking that with solder you could seal the joint in one step. Clean it thoroughly, rivit to hold in place, then flux, then solder with a propane torch.

I'm not a fan of caulk in DC piping.

One other question, could you use a nibbling tool to cut that ovoid opening?

Soldering any great length would become onerous and, as discussed above, toxic. I will likely have up to a dozen saddles — and with variable gaps plus the seam length in the conduit (am not using spiral or PVC) soldering would be one major problem. Caulk/aluminum tape seems efficient and cheap. I can put aluminum tape on 20’ of seam very quickly and be up and running. Caulk is similar, but with a drying time. I dare say that 20’ of soldering would take some time.