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Hi woodman

Many ways to do it with router , do you have a router table ?
Or do you have a plunge router or a fix base ?

Template Tom came up with jig for his router that will let you use your plunge router by making a holding jig/template and two sleds to hold the base true, this is just one of many ways to get the job done.

More info needed from you so the forum members can help you get the job done. :)

Bj :)
 

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This is a simple process to learn. Mark the center of your wood and set your bit slightly below this mark. (If using a router table, if hand held slightly above the mark) Mark the area you want to remove and again stay slightly inside the line when cutting. Make both pieces you want to fit together and test fit them. There should be a slight edge or lip on each side. Raise your bit the amount of difference on one side and re-cut both pieces. You should have a perfectly flush fit. This method is called "sneaking up to the line" and if your wood is not exactly the same thickness you are safe since you can always remove more wood but you can not put it back. If you are cutting a large number of pieces this way you can make a simple sled for your table so you get identical results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i am making a project that requires several half lap joints . i understand there is a jig for doing this. i have a plunge router i would like to make the jig if anyone has any knowledge on this subject i would like to hear from you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mike said:
This is a simple process to learn. Mark the center of your wood and set your bit slightly below this mark. (If using a router table, if hand held slightly above the mark) Mark the area you want to remove and again stay slightly inside the line when cutting. Make both pieces you want to fit together and test fit them. There should be a slight edge or lip on each side. Raise your bit the amount of difference on one side and re-cut both pieces. You should have a perfectly flush fit. This method is called "sneaking up to the line" and if your wood is not exactly the same thickness you are safe since you can always remove more wood but you can not put it back. If you are cutting a large number of pieces this way you can make a simple sled for your table so you get identical results.
how do you make this sled you are talking about? i am an amature at this thank you for your patience . thank you ernie.
 

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Hi Ernie

Not to step on Mikes toes but here's a quick and easy jig you can make in about 10mins.

This shows the dovetail bit in place but it also works great for making Lap Joints,just popin your bit and push the stock over the bit.

I should note****some lap-joints are in the center of the stock on a 45deg. cut ,that's when this jig comes in nice, you would just made a block to set in the slide jig and let the backer block do the work you.
Plywood works great for the job, then just flip it over and do the part to the frame.
To hold it in the jig just tack on some blocks on the back side of the jig and over lap them so it holds the plywood in place.

The bit I use is the one below but you can use just about anything you have that's flat on the top of the bit..

I have this jig hanging on the wall in the shop,so if you need a snapshot just let me know and I will post it . :)

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-2-SH-New...0029503QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem

Bj :)
 

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BJ is using a guide frame to help you get even cuts. This method is another good choice. A simple sled would be a piece of MDF or plywood that reaches the router bit and extends over the edge of the table far enough to attach a piece of 1 x 2 to act as a guide strip. You then attach a piece of 1 x 2 to act as a fence. This is easy to understand when you see one. BrianS is coming to make sawdust with me shortly and we will build a sled and post a video of how to use it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
lap joint jig

Mike said:
BJ is using a guide frame to help you get even cuts. This method is another good choice. A simple sled would be a piece of MDF or plywood that reaches the router bit and extends over the edge of the table far enough to attach a piece of 1 x 2 to act as a guide strip. You then attach a piece of 1 x 2 to act as a fence. This is easy to understand when you see one. BrianS is coming to make sawdust with me shortly and we will build a sled and post a video of how to use it.
hello mike i am interested in the jig you mentioned .i would like to make one if you have time to send the pictures of it and how to make it thank you for your help ernie.
 

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Hi Ernie

Here's a snapshot of the jig we talked about in the PM it's a easy jig to make and use
This one will fit just about all my router tables :) it's made with Maple.

Bj :)
 

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Bob, I find you're snapshot very confusing, is it hanging on a wall with other jigs? Methinks it's enough to frighten most novices!
 

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bobj3 said:
Hi Ernie

Here's a snapshot of the jig we talked about in the PM it's a easy jig to make and use
This one will fit just about all my router tables :) it's made with Maple.

Bj :)
Bob,

I use the same jig, but hard screwed... whipped it up in a hurry to plane a board flat...

There's another thread about planing jigs... this post would also help them.

... and I agree with Harry... Take it off the wall & take a getter pic. :) :D
 

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Hi Harry

The other items hanging on the wall with it are items I made up as a test for joints, etc. I could have taken it down but I was bit lazzy , and because the jig it so simple it should be easy for anyone to get it. :)

Bj :)
 

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Hi Joe

I may do that if Ernie comes back for more help :)

But this jig is so easy to make, it's the same type may use to put in dado slots in plywood for cabinets with the plunge router,etc.but it works so well on the router table and that's why I have it for blind dovetails,lap joints,blind dado,etc.

Bj :)
 

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bobj3 said:
Hi Joe

I may do that if Ernie comes back for more help :)

But this jig is so easy to make, it's the same type may use to put in dado slots in plywood for cabinets with the plunge router,etc.but it works so well on the router table and that's why I have it for blind dovetails,lap joints,blind dado,etc.

Bj :)
I never would use this jig on the table...

I dedicated a cheapie router to it using a 1/2" straight bit, set the height to the lowest point of board that the jig straddles, move back & forth a few hundred times (seems like), then move the jig over for another section... Works like a charm.
 

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I recently got the DVD, The Versatile Router by Pat Warner. He did'nt show how to make it but used a very simple jig for this. It was simply a rectangular piece of 3/4" MDF . With a rectangular hole cut thru it and a block attached to the underside of one end. After marking the cut line with a razor blade he clamped the workpiece to the bench under the jig. With the inside edge of the rectangular hole lined up with the scribed line. He routed out the waste using a pattern cutting bit. With the bearing riding against the jig. The block on the underside did not go against the work, but instead had a bolt/knob thru it to set against the work when you have multiple cuts.

Hope this helps and dos'nt sound to confusing.
 

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HI joe

I use the bit below ▼ to put in lap joints, a pass or two and they are done :)
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-2-SH-New...1362096QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem
All I do set the bit, lock the stock to the jig and just push it over the bit.

Most the time I don't need to lock the stock to the jig most of the time I just use stop block on the jig.

BUT I also use the jig below to make Lap Joints on the table saw quick and easy. :)
Delta 34-183 Tenoning Jig

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-34-183-...94-7750249?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1178830279&sr=1-2



Bj :)

Joe Lyddon said:
I never would use this jig on the table...

I dedicated a cheapie router to it using a 1/2" straight bit, set the height to the lowest point of board that the jig straddles, move back & forth a few hundred times (seems like), then move the jig over for another section... Works like a charm.
 
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