how do you make this sled you are talking about? i am an amature at this thank you for your patience . thank you ernie.Mike said:This is a simple process to learn. Mark the center of your wood and set your bit slightly below this mark. (If using a router table, if hand held slightly above the mark) Mark the area you want to remove and again stay slightly inside the line when cutting. Make both pieces you want to fit together and test fit them. There should be a slight edge or lip on each side. Raise your bit the amount of difference on one side and re-cut both pieces. You should have a perfectly flush fit. This method is called "sneaking up to the line" and if your wood is not exactly the same thickness you are safe since you can always remove more wood but you can not put it back. If you are cutting a large number of pieces this way you can make a simple sled for your table so you get identical results.
hello mike i am interested in the jig you mentioned .i would like to make one if you have time to send the pictures of it and how to make it thank you for your help ernie.Mike said:BJ is using a guide frame to help you get even cuts. This method is another good choice. A simple sled would be a piece of MDF or plywood that reaches the router bit and extends over the edge of the table far enough to attach a piece of 1 x 2 to act as a guide strip. You then attach a piece of 1 x 2 to act as a fence. This is easy to understand when you see one. BrianS is coming to make sawdust with me shortly and we will build a sled and post a video of how to use it.
Bob,bobj3 said:Hi Ernie
Here's a snapshot of the jig we talked about in the PM it's a easy jig to make and use
This one will fit just about all my router tables it's made with Maple.
I never would use this jig on the table...bobj3 said:Hi Joe
I may do that if Ernie comes back for more help
But this jig is so easy to make, it's the same type may use to put in dado slots in plywood for cabinets with the plunge router,etc.but it works so well on the router table and that's why I have it for blind dovetails,lap joints,blind dado,etc.
Joe Lyddon said:I never would use this jig on the table...
I dedicated a cheapie router to it using a 1/2" straight bit, set the height to the lowest point of board that the jig straddles, move back & forth a few hundred times (seems like), then move the jig over for another section... Works like a charm.