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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday forum member BrianS and I built a couple of replacement sub base plates for his Craftsman router so it could use PC style guide bushings. The material used was an old plastic sign. Here is the process we followed:
Remove the sub base plate from the router and apply double sided carpet tape. Press it firmly on the material and rough cut to shape with a band saw. Using a pattern bit we cut the final outside shape. The next step was to drill the mounting holes. We used the large diameter hole saw to drill the recess just deep enough for the guide bushing to sit flush with the surface, then the smaller hole saw for the through hole. There is a small amount of material left around the through hole and we used a Forstner bit to clean this up. While you can use Forstner bits instead of hole saws I feel it is easier to align the holes using the pilot bit of the hole saws and this is critical for a good fit. Separate the sub base from your original sub base and countersink the mounting screw holes using a Forstner bit. Since this countersunk area is non critical we used a 1/2" bit as opposed to the factory 7/16" size. (If your router uses flat head screws then use a countersinking bit.)
The sizes of the center holes vary between PC style and the Router Worksop style from Oak Park. The large hole saw will be the overall OD and the small hole saw will be the through hole size for your bushings.
 

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Awesome guys! I just may do this myself since I just can't decide which replacement base to buy for either of my two "stock" routers. And I love how you salvaged an old sign for the material. The possibilities are endless!

Josh
 

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Mike,

I like the idea of using the hole saw instead of the forstner bit, because of the advantage of the pilot hole bit. My problem is that the hole saws I have are for door locks and are way off size. Where did you obtain the 1-3/16" and 1-3/8" hole saws? I just wish some manufacturer (are you listning PC?) would make those size router bits and then cutting the holes would be a snap. My 2 bits worth (inflation you know).

Joe Z.
 

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Hi Joe

Here's a set for 8.oo dollars and it has the sizes you need, I use them all the time and they work great...
Just clamp the stock to the drill base table, drill a 1/8" hole then use the 1 3/8" bit then the 1 3/16" bit to drill the center hole out all the way..it's a very fast way and it works every time...and I'm sure once you do it a time or two it will be the last time you buy any base plates for the router or the router table..

Just a note,,, a square sub base plates are the best....then they can be used in many more ways, for a strait edge,to hold bearings on the corners for M & T sloting, etc.


http://cgi.ebay.com/5-pc-Set-of-For...50383QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262
 

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Bob,

Thanks for your help. I already have the proper size forstner bits. I felt it would be much simpler to do it with the right size hole saw. That's why I asked where Mike obtained those sizes.

Joe Z.
 

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Hi Joe

The Hole saws are the hard way to do it :). it can cut the 1 3/16" hole easy but when it comes to the 1 3/8 hole (recess hole it can't do it right,) it must be flat and true to hold the brass guide just right..

I also use a fly cutter that works well but a good set of forstner bits is the way to get the job done right plus you can make your own base plates to hold the big guides ( 1 1/2" x 1 3/4" ) Oak-Park/Lee Valley type and they do come in handy when you need to use a bigger bit ,like a 1" for just one of many... :)

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=41778&cat=1,43000,51208&ap=1
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=BG-BGST-&product=BG034
http://grizzly.com/products/Round-Fly-Cutter-Set-3-pc-/H7537

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Bob,

Thanks for your help. I already have the proper size forstner bits. I felt it would be much simpler to do it with the right size hole saw. That's why I asked where Mike obtained those sizes.

Joe Z.
 

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You'er Welcome Joe

I have made so many base plates I have lost track of how many...
I think it's one every week for the pass 2 years or so.. :) I now want to make one more now for the new router I just got, so I can drop it in one of the router tables>>>> ..

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
For some reason my tagging of new postings is not working right and I missed this. Joe, I have a Lenox set of hole saws and most sizes are available from HD or Lowes. The advantage of using the hole saw is you chuck the 1/4" bit and plunge for a perfect center. Following with the hole saws is easy with this pilot hole. The larger saw is used first for the part way through cut and the through cut with the smaller saw cleans out the hole.
 

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Thanks Mike,

You have saved me some dollars......

I will still go to Carba-Tec (Sydney) this weekend to get the bushing set.

(and I will have to check the sizes of my hole saws (probably metric :(


James
 

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I have been making some router bases.

One thing I noticed repeatedly was the error caused by slippage of the double sided tape. I got the tape from the hardware store. It appears to hold ok, but slid out of possition when actually doing the operation.

All bases have screw holes. So what I did was put some screws and bolts through the
pattern and the blank with some bits of folded sandpaper in the sandwich. Having the screws ride above the surface was not a problem. *But* I am using a sacrificial work surface of masonite with zero clearance for the bit plus a fence with little of the bit exposed.

This was only way I solved the problem after having more than one bad attempt with tape only.

Caution should always be used in these procedures.
 

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I have to add this note made several days later:


After a few attempts at base duplication which pulled the tape out of position I looked more closely at the image above. The tape in the image does not intersect with the bit path. My tape placement was not carefully done.

Still don't know if the tape placement will solve the problem of tape sliding. What I did to eliminate the problem without wasting more material was to screw and bolt through the holes of the template and blank and then do the shaping on a zero clearance sacrificial masonite work surface. Also had the fence up with a bit guard and waste extractor (homemade vacuum cleaner setup).

Wear eye protection and execute carefully as always.
 

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When using the factory base plate as a pattern to route the new base, can they be stuck together using hot glue? Would this damage either of the base materials or be hard to pry apart?
 

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Hi sofasurfer

Hot glue and tape suck :( they will both let it move just a little bit and that you do not want.

Almost all base plates come with mounting holes, use them to make a new plate, 3 or 4 screws the norm, set the old base plate on the stock/plastic and drill the holes out put in some flat head screws with washers and nuts..then you are set to make a new base plate true and dead on..to drill out the center hole chuck up a 1 3/16" in the drill press with the old plate and new plate as one, line up the bit with the center hole clamp it down to the top and drill out the hole, if you want a pocket for the brass guides remove the old plate and chuck up a 1 3/8" bit in the drill press and drill it down 1/8" deep.. don't forget you have a front side and a bottom side..to the plate..the key is to use the 1 3/16" bit to line it up in the drill press.. :)


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When using the factory base plate as a pattern to route the new base, can they be stuck together using hot glue? Would this damage either of the base materials or be hard to pry apart?
 

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That actually did occur to me but everybody says tape, so...
Ok, I'll do the bolt thing.
Right now I'm practicing drilling the center hole. I drilled one and it is nice but its the wrong size. I don't have forstners that big so I am using one of those monsters in the pic.
So far its is a pain getting it sized and getting the outer cutters evenly spaced. Don't know if I can manage it or not.
Will a spade bit work? I kinda think so. I'll go out and try it. I don't have one that size but at least I can afford one of those.
 

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hi sofasurfer,

i cant remember where youre from, but you can get the forstner bits from peachtree for 7 or 8 bucks each. there is not anything that will compare with them for drilling out baseplates.
 

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Hi

The forstner bits are the way to go, you can find them all over the place for about 20.oo bucks (ebay) 1/4" to 2 1/8"..
The cutter you posted is good for the ruff cut outs and big holes but that's about it..I must have 5 or 6 of that type..
You can also pickup a hole saw set at the right price to cut out holes.
Harbor Freight Tools
but they don't cut real clean the norm..

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/forset1.htm

http://cgi.ebay.com/DRILL-BIT-SET-1...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2c52ff9856
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-16-Pc-Forst...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4ced870f1e

http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p4634.m38.l1313&_nkw=forstner+bit&_sacat=See-All-Categories
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That actually did occur to me but everybody says tape, so...
Ok, I'll do the bolt thing.
Right now I'm practicing drilling the center hole. I drilled one and it is nice but its the wrong size. I don't have forstners that big so I am using one of those monsters in the pic.
So far its is a pain getting it sized and getting the outer cutters evenly spaced. Don't know if I can manage it or not.
Will a spade bit work? I kinda think so. I'll go out and try it. I don't have one that size but at least I can afford one of those.
 

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I know that Levon, about the good work they do. I have a set that goes up to 1 inch. They are awesome. Believe me, if I could I would go buy a set.
I just drilled through the acrylic with a paddle bit. Very easy.
I need to file a 1-1/4 inch bit down to 1-3/16 inch and the bigger 1-3/8 inch will need to be dremiled out a couple tousanths, from what I can tell. And the pilot blade in the centers need to be filed to the same size and the outside cutters need to be filed off on the largest bit.
I think I'm on to something. We shall see.
 

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you dont have to buy a set, just check them out

http://peachtreeusa.com/

1 3/8 forstner bit- 7 bucks

it sure makes it easy! :)
 

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I know that Levon, about the good work they do. ...We shall see.
Rather than try to drill through using the old baseplate as a guide (I think this is what I understood) I would suggest you get a set of transfer punches and transfer the centre point of each hole and drill without the baseplate in the way.

Did I guess right?
 
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