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Makita 3 1/4 Model 3612BR

32434 Views 28 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Cherryville Chuck
Hello
Does any one know of any after market Base replacment for the Older Makita 3 1/4 Hp router Model 3612BR that would allow me to use larger 3.5" raised panel bits?

Thanks
Dan
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Dan, I think you will need to build your own for this.
Hi sawshop/Dan

If you can't use the 3 1/2" bits now, you may want to think about Vertical bits.
Or you can use a Fly Cutter to open it up to 3 5/8" .

http://www.grizzly.com/products/h7537
http://www.grizzly.com/products/h5935
-----------------

Vertical, below
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/2725-raised-panels-quick-easy.html
http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/3111-horz-router.html
http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/3014-new-toy.html

Just a side note**** the panel bits don't need to go into the base of the router and because the panel bits always need to be used on a router table you can make spacer to drop the router down just a bit so the bits can spin free just below the top on the router table. :)
1/2" thick should work fine for a spacer but the mounting plate for the router must be made bigger so the bit can spin also.

Bj :)
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bobj3 said:
Hi sawshop/Dan

If you can't use the 3 1/2" bits now, you may want to think about Vertical bits.
Or you can use a Fly Cutter to open it up to 3 5/8" .

http://www.grizzly.com/products/h7537
http://www.grizzly.com/products/h5935
-----------------

Vertical, below
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/2725-raised-panels-quick-easy.html

Just a side note**** the panel bits don't need to go into the base of the router and because the panel bits always need to be used on a router table you can make spacer to drop the router down just a bit so the bits can spin free just below the top on the router table. :)
1/2" thick should work fine for a spacer but the mounting plate for the router must be made bigger so the bit can spin also.

Bj :)
Thanks Guys
I had thought of a simple base that had 2 holes to except the plunge post but would like the bases to be interchangeable but may require too much to do so but have not ruled it out yet.

I was originally going to use a Vertical bit but was able to get the Freud raised panel with back cutter for very good price but the Vertical bit s are not so expensive & it would get me going until I buy a new router.

I plan on setting up the 3.5" panel cutter in the table & setting the stop on the router to restrict the cutter from coming in contact with the base & will look at your Idea of using a spacer at that time.

Thanks again Guys

Dan
Dan, can you provide a photo of your base with the sub base plate removed? A bottom view?
Thanks BJ. Dan, while it might be possible to use a collet extender and a thick spacer to allow you to use horizontal panel raising bits with your router I would recommend against it. You are far better off using a vertical panel raising bit for safety's sake. These bits cost less, require less power, and are safer to use. Build an extended vertical fence or consider building a horizontal table like this: http://www.routerforums.com/30706-post1.html
OK I will get a picture tonight.

Dan
5
aniceone2hold said:
Dan, can you provide a photo of your base with the sub base plate removed? A bottom view?

Here are some photo's of the Makita 3 1/4 HP Model 3612BR Base.
Dan

Attachments

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Hi Dan

Just my 2 cents, I don't see why not just make a new base, it will take some work but why not.

Get some 1/2" plastic and glue on some rings to hold the the rods and some Allen bolts and lock nuts, not the roll pins they will crack the plastic rings when you try and drive them in..
The glue that works best for plastic is called Weld-On.
You can drill and tap the mounting holes that's no big deal.

http://www.rplastics.com/plac.html?gclid=CNj2muDw7IgCFSRjWAoduwcJpQ

Bj :)
Another excellent idea BJ. What do you think Dan?
Yes I think I should look into doing something like that maybe with UHMW.

I saw the same router all beat up at a local second hand shop in the summer that had a broken base but was still functional wish I bought it now I would have cut the opening to accommodate the 3.5" raised panel bit. : (
Hi Dan

You may want to read the link b/4 you use the UHMW almost nothing will stick to it.

Gluing UHMW
http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=jigs&file=articles_586.shtml

Bj :)
Thanks for the heads up.
It only makes sense that glue might not stick well on UHMW
I will go by the plastic shop in town & look around.

One other thought I just came up with last night trying to get to sleep is ordering a new base if it is not outrageously priced because I do have a stripped mounting hole for the base plate.
Then I could modify the base I have now & have a virgin base for when I need to use the OEM Makita guide bushings.

Dan
Hi Dan

I think I would stick with the plastic :) BUT hears one more ideal pickup some 1" thick plastic drill out the center hole and the mouting holes then drill out the holes for the plunge rods then just drill the holes for the roll pins drive them into place and your done without using any glue :) 1" x 9" x 9" acrylic plastic should work just fine for this one.
Also, I think I would pickup the item(s) below just in case you need to get the bit higher in the router table.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/router_collet.html

Bj :)
I kinda hate to say this guys but wouldn't it be quicker & easier to simply build a horizontal router table ? I built mine over a weekend & there are many useful machining functions in addition to using vertical panel raising bits. ie: as a jointer, sliding dovetails, morticing, to name a few.

Lee
Hi Lee

Please take a snapshot of your new Horz. router table and I will show you mine :) LOL

Bj :)
Dan, now you know why so few members have only one router. I love flea markets and used tool stores.
:p
bobj3 said:
Hi Dan

I think I would stick with the plastic :) BUT hears one more ideal pickup some 1" thick plastic drill out the center hole and the mouting holes then drill out the holes for the plunge rods then just drill the holes for the roll pins drive them into place and your done without using any glue :) 1" x 9" x 9" acrylic plastic should work just fine for this one.
Also, I think I would pickup the item(s) below just in case you need to get the bit higher in the router table.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/router_collet.html

Bj :)
This is how I will probably do it if I make one.
Another thing I thought of is ordering a new replacement base then I could modify the base I have now.
But there is still the Horizontal panel bit that will do fine until I buy a new router.\
I am thinking of the Bosch 3.25 HP Electronic Plunge Router model 1619EVS

Dan :p
bobj3 said:
Hi Lee

Please take a snapshot of your new Horz. router table and I will show you mine :) LOL

Bj :)
Yup I know.
I am just getting back into woodworking after being away from it for along time.
Still trying to get my shop built.
So far still waiting for Geo-study that the city makes us do now after a house caved into an old mine shaft.
All I have so far is the plans have been drawn up for a 20'x36' 10' tall inside walls.
At this point I have to set things outside to do anything as I speak I have a Drill press standing behind me in my computer room among many other tools.
Our west coast weather does not give us many dry days during the winter.
Soon I keep telling myself. :( :mad: :eek: :confused: :'( :p
Dan
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