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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I will be the first to admit that I am fortunate enough to have both the Incra and the Osborne Miter gauges, with this said, I am fairly sure that the members that have been cutting 45 degree cuts for picture frames among other things. When doing so sometimes it is necessary to cut from both sides of the blade, and when this is required, the change over takes time and is sort of a pain. Today I set up the Incra with the Incra Express Sled in the left miter slot and the Osborne miter gauge in the right slot. This arrangement of course sure makes making the cuts on both sides of the blade easy. See photos if you care to.

I have also added a photo of the modified cursor and magnifying glass that I have set up mostly due to my poor vision. The arrangement really works well for me. I recall watching Mark Mueller doing the demo for the LS fence positioning system, and in that video he sure has the ability to reset the fence with easy and speed, I just can't do the changes that easily due to my poor vision, but do wonder if members with normal vision can and do make changes as easily as Mark seems to make.

Jerry Bowen
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
...! You took the blade guard off for illustration purposes only, I hope?
No blade guard can be installed with the Incra LS system installed, the rails that are part of the system prevent the guard from being installed.

Mark Mueller, the Incra Tech, said that the rear rail can be split and after some other modification the guard and the splitter can be installed, however, such a modification then prevents the base of the system to be slid along the rails to the router that is installed between the rails to the far left end of the rails past the blade. I do have to wonder what other member of the forum that use the Incra System have done about this issue.

In regard to the modified cursor, there is a two inch hole cut in the center of the plastic window and fine thread is stretched across the bottom of the window which is much thinner than the original red cursor and for me anyway, much more accurate.r
 

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That's unfortunate; working without a blade guard and pawls scares the crap outa me! How about an overhead guard and dust collector?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That's unfortunate; working without a blade guard and pawls scares the crap outa me! How about an overhead guard and dust collector?
Dan,
I'm sure that you do wonder, but I'm not a bit afraid, it keeps me on my toes, but I know that I am risk. I don't go through life wearing belt and suspenders. I have written Mark Mueller with Incra and told him about your fears. I have asked him to comment and if he does, I will post his answer.

Jerry
 

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My guard is trunion mounted, so not a problem. Looking at your set-up Jerry, if you've got the 32" positioner it would appear that it would reach the router table and still be well left of the blade. You'd have to slide the fence back a bit or remove the guard mount every time you went to the router though.

Dan's idea of an overhead system would be much more convenient. Difference is the price. If i had that issue, overhead would be what i'd do--keeps the Brown Trucks coming down the driveway!!

earl
 

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The discussion about the guard is interesting. In over 50 years I have never used one and have never actually seen one being used. Not even Norm Abrams although he tells everyone to use all the safety features. The splitter feature is great for longer boards but on average I would say that my stuff is usually short.
 

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I've taken the tablesaw blade guard off too, I'll admit. I find that resawing hardwood loads up the motor on my bandsaw to an unacceptable degree and inevitably shortens bandsaw blade life as well, so I run two full-depth cuts with the tablesaw on any plank I'm resawing, getting to full blade height (75mm) in three stages usually.
Just a tip - I've drawn a permanent line on my tablesaw to show where to position the fence for ripping lumber to the absolute maximum of the bandsaw's resawing capability, it's a time-saver if you prepare a lot of your own timber, or salvage timber for small projects from off-cuts, or make veneers etc.
 

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You know folks I just turned 71 this month and am very safety conscious and have been woodworking for around 60 years. But I do not use a blade guard either. I actually find them to be a PITA, and an excuse to take chances you would not normally take, like reaching past the the blade with the blade turning, or cutting thin strips on the wrong side of the blade! We do use Board Buddies all the time (and love them) and have no problems with them, and a featherboard, when practical for ripping. Board Buddies limit you to using a scrap piece of stock flat on the table instead of a push stick, and I think it is a much safer practice. I am on the waiting list (12 week) for a Shark Guard from Leeway Workshop. The thing about this guard is the modular construction, dust collection and how quickly you can modify or remove each section individually. The video is an animation, but the link to his site shows the actual units. He must be a great individual because he also offers his detailed splitter drawings free. US made, and has guards for almost every saw.

A tip that can save you some risk and some money is to pick up some drywall sanding pads (Lowes $4.98) and a pack off drywall paper. You can use carpet tape to fasten the paper to the bottom of the pads, then trim off the edges. Actually the best push pads I have ever used. They are great for the router table and the table saw!

Man we old farts do ramble, but I like to feel we have something to pass on.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kK0fML7ERrI

Leeway Workshop, LLC

Shop Warner Tool Products 4-1/2-in x 9-in Hand Sander at Lowes.com
 

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Jerry, why is your sled so far away from the blade? Surely you want a zero clearance effect?

I recently installed my Incra TS-LS on a contractor saw and made some mods to allow the old type splitter/guard/anti-kick-back system. If you like I could email you the photies or just post them here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Jerry, why is your sled so far away from the blade? Surely you want a zero clearance effect?

I recently installed my Incra TS-LS on a contractor saw and made some mods to allow the old type splitter/guard/anti-kick-back system. If you like I could email you the photies or just post them here?
Hilton,
You are indeed observant, I had the filler part installed on the Express Sled that is used when cutting on the right hand side of the blade. I installed the one for the left side and re-shot the photo for you to see that I have it right now. also, I got a better photo of the modified cursor and window.

I have installed a Micro Splitter in the insert for the saw and that along with the magnetic feather board arrangement has pretty much minimized the chance of a kick back, notice that I did not say eliminated the chance, just minimized it. But thanks for the offer anyway.

Jerry
 

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The discussion about the guard is interesting. In over 50 years I have never used one and have never actually seen one being used. Not even Norm Abrams although he tells everyone to use all the safety features. The splitter feature is great for longer boards but on average I would say that my stuff is usually short.

Same Here .........
 
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