In this case, I would make a set up block using your measuring guide, and keep handy for the next set up?
Matched Tongue and Groove Issue
I’m not sure I’m posting this in the correct place and I’ll be happy to re-post to a different category if someone thinks I’m playing in the wrong park. All the operations I reference are with a table mounted router. And I’m afraid I’ll have to provide some idea of what I’m doing and why - so that my question makes more sense.
I’m building a kitchen cabinet. I’ve done a couple of complete kitchens but I’m no pro. When I did my first kitchen, I got excited about Marc Sommerfeld’s methods/tools and I purchased his matched tongue and groove bits. And I followed his suggestions using a rubber grommet/washer in the bottom of the collet. Each time a bit is placed in the collet it bottoms out on the washer. (This allows the user to cut a groove and then switch to a tongue cutter without changing bit heights and cut a matching tongue.)
This worked fine until my Craftsman 315.275062 started having switch problems. I might be able to sort them out??? But it just seems simpler to start using my Bosch 1617 EVS. EXCEPT that the collet shaft is about ½” too long. Thus the bits don’t bottom out like they did with the Craftsman. They slide down until the cutter head touches the collet nut.
So…. Can I safely add a short length of dowel to the bottom of the collet (along with the washer) so the set bottoms?
Thanks for reading all this and your input.
I’m building a kitchen cabinet. I’ve done a couple of complete kitchens but I’m no pro. When I did my first kitchen, I got excited about Marc Sommerfeld’s methods/tools and I purchased his matched tongue and groove bits. And I followed his suggestions using a rubber grommet/washer in the bottom of the collet. Each time a bit is placed in the collet it bottoms out on the washer. (This allows the user to cut a groove and then switch to a tongue cutter without changing bit heights and cut a matching tongue.)
This worked fine until my Craftsman 315.275062 started having switch problems. I might be able to sort them out??? But it just seems simpler to start using my Bosch 1617 EVS. EXCEPT that the collet shaft is about ½” too long. Thus the bits don’t bottom out like they did with the Craftsman. They slide down until the cutter head touches the collet nut.
So…. Can I safely add a short length of dowel to the bottom of the collet (along with the washer) so the set bottoms?
Thanks for reading all this and your input.
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Hello woodworkers and I address this to
Hello, I am Jay Boutwell and I own a business known as "Cabinet Technology" where I do custom high-end woodwork. I am currently assisting Sommerfeld tools by taking care of the Customer and Tools Support for Sommerfeld Tools. I have about 50 years woodworking experience and most of these years include using tools from Sommerfeld Tools. I will answer the above question from your member "oldhudson49' who is having some problems with the tongue and groove bit set from Sommerfeld tools that is made for the purpose of building cabinets boxes and attaching a face frame to the cabinet box. This set is identified as Item# 03004 which is the three-piece set shown on catalogue #25 page 10 and or also the Pro set Item # 04001 also shown on catalogue #25 page 10. (This also applies to the Sommerfeld on-line catalogue found at www.sommerfeldtools.com as the pages in the online catalogue are the same as the hard print catalogue #25)
When the Router bits are shipped from the company warehouse, they include a written article on a small tab of paper that gives you instruction on dealing with the Sommerfeld router bits and some router models that have a deeper than normal collet depth. The solution is to use a short length of 1/2 inch dia wooden dowel in the bottom of the collet and then the rubber grommet or bushing on top and in a regular depth router collet. The process is simple as you begin with a 7/8" long 1/2-inch dia dowel and begin a few of scrap wood tests. I will include a copy of the article that is included with the majority of the Sommerfeld router bit sets. Directions For Deep Collets On Routers 001 (2).jpg
If you are using the Sommerfeld Easy Set tool the process is to set the groove cutter first and then with the above router collet modification, they you simply set the groove cutter using the tongue and groove finger tab on the Easy Set tool and cut your grooves. Once ready to cut the tongues all you have to do is loosen the router collet and remove and insert the tongue cutter bit tighten and begin routing the tongues. the setting should be correct as that is the unique feature of the "Same Length" bits. The same goes for all the other bit sets known as "Same Length matched bits" such as the door making bits. It works on the principle of a collet tightening on the bit shank will pull down on the bit the same amount from a given point each time and will crush the rubber grommet the same amount each time. It should be noted that a person should replace the grommet after a few months of use as the rubber grommet will harden from age and use. They are available by order and are in-expensive. One should be included with each bit set that is ordered. I hope this will clear up all the questions about routers of which have deeper collets and allow the bit to bottom out without the shank sitting on the bottom of the collet. Most of the time it will be some models of the Bosch, Porter Cable, and other brands of routers. If the router bit bottoms out, then they will not work with matched bit length shanks without the modification. Yes, you can leave the dowel in the router as it will still operate properly with all the router bits and work safely as it places the shank well into the collet. Thank you for the opportunity to answer this question about the Sommerfeld router bits. Work safely and please stay well. Regards, Jay Boutwell Sommerfeld Tools.
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