Which one are you referring to?

 

That's what I am curious about... I have 10' Frued CD010 and CMT 299.112.00 sanding disks that take the stick-on sand paper disks. I originally bought them as an aid in setting tune... I use them as sanding disks. I think BJ has some also that he had talked about.

But a cheese grater style(?), I've not heard of. At the RPM, I do some strange things, but that almost sounds scary even to me.

 

Here a review from wood magazine in 2012

Reviewed by WOOD Magazine February 20, 2012
Last updated: February 20, 2012
Top 500 Reviewer - View all my reviews
STAINLESS-STEEL DISCS CUT FAST, NOT FINE

Staring into the teeth of these Stainless Steel Sanding Discs for 5" random-orbit sanders, they look mighty scary. And they are—if you’re a piece of wood. The idea behind them: Each razor-sharp hole acts like a tiny hand plane to shave the wood, rather than scratch it smooth, like the grit on sandpaper. But do these hook-and-loop discs leave a surface as smooth as sandpaper? To find out, I compared Microplane’s coarse, medium, and fine Stainless Steel Sanding Discs head-to-head with a fresh set of conventional 40-, 80-, and 120-grit sanding discs. Using the same sander, hand pressure, and an equal number of strokes with each abrasive, I worked my way up through the grits on pieces of red oak and hard maple. The coarse Stainless Steel Sanding Disc devoured the test boards, leaving tiny wood shavings in its wake. It removed material faster than any sandpaper I’ve ever used, but the fuzzy and frayed finish wasn’t as smooth as the swirly scratches left by 40-grit paper. As I proceeded up through the grits, the Stainless Steel Sanding Discs always left a surface that felt rougher than that made by sandpaper.

I figured that stain would reveal flaws left by either abrasive, so I brushed on a dark stain. Not surprisingly, the wood shaped with the Stainless Steel Sanding Discs took the stain darker and more unevenly than the sanded wood. However, I always sand a project to 180 grit before staining, so I sanded both the 120-grit sandpaper area and the “fine” Microplaned area with equal strokes and pressure, and again applied stain. This time I couldn’t tell one board from the other. Here’s the bottom line: Microplane’s Stainless Steel Sanding Discs won’t replace your sandpaper, but they will hog away a lot more material for the same effort. And, at about $5 a disc, they’ll last a lot longer before needing replacement.

Never try them myself

 

Finally found it....:dance3:

Here's the link to a review;

Microplane Steel "Sandpaper"

And John beat me to it.

 

Where you threw me Gary was using them to sand rust. They can't be used on metal and nothing else I know of is recommended for both although flap discs will do it, just not efficiently. I'm not familiar with these but I've been looking at the carbide ones for a while like the Dura Disc. Also Bill (TwoSkies57) has used something similar in his Maloof rocking chair build currently on the forum and he was impressed with them. (Excelsior?) With the carbide ones if they plug up you can burn them clean with a propane torch.

 

I tried them but haven't used them since. They definitely work, but too well. The surface left behind is rougher than the equivalent sandpaper finish. This might be partly because the 'teeth' are arranged in an orderly pattern, unlike sandpaper where the grits are (nearly) random. I also found that the shavings tend to clog up between the cutting disk and router pad. The dust suction of your router may not be up to the task.

 

I was thinking of getting a set to remove paint from furniture, sometimes I find a very interesting piece of furniture that IMHO has been ruined by painting it.
Figured I would pick up a few pieces to try my hand at refinishing.:happy:

 

Looking at the review - several 3's and the final, value a 4 star??

My thoughts are that they may work reasonably well for fast removal of material but would tend to leave a gouged surface. I'll stick to my conventional RA or DA sanders or if I really want to cut something to size, maybe the 4-1/2 or 7 inch disc sander.

For fast paint removal on furniture - I would think that you will lose any fine detail that the paint might cover. Then there is that lead based paint if it was done with paint manufactured prior to 1972 and putting it airborne ................

 

Sort of like using a surf-form plane(?) But it reminds me of Theo's award winning adage:
"Kept your fingers away from sharp whirling thingy's!"

As for furniture paint removal... I've always gone with the methodology that if you strip and flush first, then you don't have to go as deep. Some of the refinishing I've done is on veneers where you can only go so deep and many times you only have one go at that.

Even if not, the deeper you go, the more sanding you have to do to get it smooth again. And I've said time and time again about how I feel about time spent on sanding. If we just had a fast forward button to skip over that step... But on polishing, that doesn't bother me. LOL! Good thing Sharon loves to sand!