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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The fence on my Craftsman (aluminum top) table is very difficult to adjust fore and aft. It moves connected to “slots” in the table, very imprecise. It is a good fence otherwise. I suppose the problem is not one that I alone have. I spent a lot of time looking over the internet for some add-on device to make the task of incrementally feeding the router bit on deep cuts. The commercial add-ons-- did not fit or were very expensive. One person had made an adjuster from a "turnbuckle". The idea looked like something I could modify and use..... I have attached a couple of photos of my "model 1", which works fine. I “lock” the left side of the fence at a pivot point. A lock washer gives the point ease of “rotation”. I used grommets at the turnbuckle ends, compressed, so fore and aft turning of the turnbuckle would have no "play". The turnbuckle has stainless steel threads and is good quality. It has 24TPI, but the action is doubled (two ends). The resulting “pitch” of movement is about .080 inch per turn. The total movement of the turnbuckle is 1.5 inches.

Ron C
 

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Theo
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Usually I cut as much excess off as reasonably possibly, leaving maybe 1/8" at the most, then rout. When I don't do that, and need to take off a fairly large amount of material, I take tiny cuts by just eyeballing it. I don't have any problems doing it that way. And the bits I use are 1/2" flush trim bits, and I don't have a fence.
 

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I buy and sell tools to help my income out a little. If you watch CL you might be surprised by the number of really affordable saws with great fence systems come up. Just like a Flea Market the price on CL is the beginning negotiation price.

If you are in the MO area PM me and I will be happy to help out if you are not CL savy.

There are lots of people out there that buy wonderful equipment then decide they don't really want to work wood and then that unisaw sits around taking up space. A Unisaw migbt be shooting high but you never know....

Fred
 

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Ron

perhaps I misunderstand your problem but it seems to me that you could simply insert a playing card between the clamp and the wood block to move your fence backward.

On a number of occasions using playing cards as shims has proved useful. For one example -- setting the clearance between band saw blade and blade guides
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for Reply

Ron

perhaps I misunderstand your problem but it seems to me that you could simply insert a playing card between the clamp and the wood block to move your fence backward.

On a number of occasions using playing cards as shims has proved useful. For one example -- setting the clearance between band saw blade and blade guides
The Turnbuckle performs the fore and aft motion of the router fence. The axis of rotation is "around" the fence lock (left facing fence). Left fence lock is lightly set, right fence lock is loose..... Purpose of turnbuckle is to incrementally move workpiece into the bit......

Onward.
 

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Oliver (Prof. Henry)
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The Turnbuckle performs the fore and aft motion of the router fence. The axis of rotation is "around" the fence lock (left facing fence). Left fence lock is lightly set, right fence lock is loose..... Purpose of turnbuckle is to incrementally move workpiece into the bit......

Onward.
I have two questions, Ron: (1) What is the max range of adjustment using the turnbuckle?, and (2) Have you calculated how much the fence moves with say a single turn on the turnbuckle? Your system looks like a simple, easy, and inexpensive way to make a finely tuned adjustment to the fence.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
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I have two questions, Ron: (1) What is the max range of adjustment using the turnbuckle?, and (2) Have you calculated how much the fence moves with say a single turn on the turnbuckle? Your system looks like a simple, easy, and inexpensive way to make a finely tuned adjustment to the fence.
The maximum range of adjustment on the turnbuckle I use is just about 1.50 (erred in first reply) inch. I have not done a "calibration" yet, but it can be done fairly easily. the movement toward the center of the router bit would depend upon the distance of the turnbuckle attachment to the center of the bit. I was going "buggy" with moving into a roman ogee bit, causing burn and "chipping". I was really happy the first time I used my adjustment jig, just tweaking a turn or two, between passes---- no burn, no chipping or uneven areas. I considered a larger turnbuckle for greater range, but this one seems to work with my present needs. I use it by opening it to the point the fence just touches the bit perimeter. I then tweak and run the cut. I repeat until desired cut is reached. Use a quality turnbuckle (stainless steel threads), and provide a method to eliminate "play" at the turnbuckle ends (to make turns more precise-rubber grommets in compression work great). I had considered some way to move the entire fence fore and aft, but the nice feature of a bit on an axis is it is only necessary to "pivot" the fence about an axis on one end of the fence. I may improve the setup by calibration and other items?

Additional item..... May drill a hole in the bracket supporting the fence into the table. Dropping a pin at that location will "fix" the pivot point, and make it easier to set (lock) the fence prior to a cut.
Onward.
Ron

Thanks for your interest...
 

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The Turnbuckle performs the fore and aft motion of the router fence. The axis of rotation is "around" the fence lock (left facing fence). Left fence lock is lightly set, right fence lock is loose..... Purpose of turnbuckle is to incrementally move workpiece into the bit......

Onward.
Ron - I have seen that thread where someone used turnbuckles and have considered it for my table. The reason being is that sometimes when I want to move the fence just a wee bit, it goes a lot more then that wee and my nice neat cut ---- looks not so nice!! As far as how much it moves per turn - well, you can use a dial indicator, but then can you actually repeat a 'turn' in several revolutions with a 2-3 dollar turnbuckle with sloppy and probably rolled and galvanized threads. It really is a 'feel' and eyeball thing - and for most work, all that's needed.

Good job:D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I erred in my first reply to you..... the travel is double the value of one end of the turnbuckle....... so I am getting about 1.5 inches of travel..... Also, I am considering drilling a hole behind the left fence (on the "L" bracket supporting the fence). If I place a "pin" at that location, it will prevent any movement of the pivot point, and make it easier to set up....
Thanks for interest..
Ron C.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you for the reply

Ron - I have seen that thread where someone used turnbuckles and have considered it for my table. The reason being is that sometimes when I want to move the fence just a wee bit, it goes a lot more then that wee and my nice neat cut ---- looks not so nice!! As far as how much it moves per turn - well, you can use a dial indicator, but then can you actually repeat a 'turn' in several revolutions with a 2-3 dollar turnbuckle with sloppy and probably rolled and galvanized threads. It really is a 'feel' and eyeball thing - and for most work, all that's needed.

Good job:D
Note that I use only one turnbuckle, fixing a pivot point on the end of the left side of the fence. I found that using a dial indicator is a bit slow. I also found that a 2 dollar turnbuckle is not so good, but one for $5. had stainless steel threads and worked smoothly and with little play. I admire your ability to feel and eyeball, but I am a bit weak in those areas. My fence does not have T track feed, but only "slots", which makes the left side difficult to locate in "parallel" with the right side slot.

I appreciate your comments. Thanks for interest.

Ron
 

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I just got the update on this thread and see that my reply was severely over the left field fence. Sorry about that. Perhaps I was trying to respond to a different post or I tried to use my tablet before my morning cup of coffee.
 
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