Hi everyone, I've never posted here but I've looked the site over before. I'm following a question that was asked on Lumberjocks.com. Has anyone used the router dovetail maker from Harbor Freight? Thanks in advance.
Hi Mike:Hi everyone, I've never posted here but I've looked the site over before. I'm following a question that was asked on Lumberjocks.com. Has anyone used the router dovetail maker from Harbor Freight? Thanks in advance.
I'm with you all the way, Ron. I like the looks of dovetails but that's all I like about them. I learned to do them by hand over 50 years ago and, have used numerous router jigs, too.Hi Mike:
the Harbor Freight is only one of a "class" of dovetail jigs. They're basically the same (except the price) and they all work the same.
My experience started with dreaming about doing fine dovetails for my cabinetry. The first experiment took four hair pulling days. Now I wear a full beard and I had a full head of hair. Now, I'm partially bald and my beard is patchy.
However, once past the first excruciating experiments, all becomes clear and understandable. The bit depth dictates all. However, I've opted for lap and box joints -- much faster; with glue -- equally as strong.
The trick I found was to get as many manuals together as I could, study them all and merge their contents. Not one is sufficient on it's own.
Hope this helps.
Given the same pin/finger sizes, I'd think the BJ would be far stronger due to the taper inherent in the through DT. But, I've been wrong before....a few times.Hi Guys
I need to disagree, the dovetail is much stronger than the box joint ,you don't need to put them on 3/4" center you can make them as big as you need,lets say 1 every 4" of stock,you don't need glue because the way the dovetail cut..it's almost self locking almost, unlike the box joint.. that will pull apart..
The through dovetail is the same as a box joint but much stronger
more mass the norm..
Now if we are talking about blind dovetails they are not as strong as the box joints, less mass the norm..
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