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Hi everyone, I've never posted here but I've looked the site over before. I'm following a question that was asked on Lumberjocks.com. Has anyone used the router dovetail maker from Harbor Freight? Thanks in advance.
 

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Hello Michael! I know that there are some who have them. I have never had one. I can welcome you here, and enjoy all the information here. After 10 post, you can post projects, and pictures. Enjoy.
 

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HI Mike

They work just fine :)

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Hi everyone, I've never posted here but I've looked the site over before. I'm following a question that was asked on Lumberjocks.com. Has anyone used the router dovetail maker from Harbor Freight? Thanks in advance.
 

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Welcome aboard no I have not used that jeg yet.
 

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Welcome,
Lots of knowledge here to draw from. I purchased one on sale a few weeks ago. Haven't had time to play with it yet. I hope it is better than their instructions.
Harry, TX
 

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Greetings Mike and welcome to the router forum. I have not used one, but may be looking into it as a future purchase.
 

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Hi everyone, I've never posted here but I've looked the site over before. I'm following a question that was asked on Lumberjocks.com. Has anyone used the router dovetail maker from Harbor Freight? Thanks in advance.
Hi Mike:

the Harbor Freight is only one of a "class" of dovetail jigs. They're basically the same (except the price) and they all work the same.

My experience started with dreaming about doing fine dovetails for my cabinetry. The first experiment took four hair pulling days. Now I wear a full beard and I had a full head of hair. Now, I'm partially bald and my beard is patchy.

However, once past the first excruciating experiments, all becomes clear and understandable. The bit depth dictates all. However, I've not opted for lap and box joints -- much faster; with glue -- equally as strong.

The trick I found was to get as many manuals together as I could, study them all and merge their contents. Not one is sufficient on it's own.

Hope this helps.
 

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Hi Mike:

the Harbor Freight is only one of a "class" of dovetail jigs. They're basically the same (except the price) and they all work the same.

My experience started with dreaming about doing fine dovetails for my cabinetry. The first experiment took four hair pulling days. Now I wear a full beard and I had a full head of hair. Now, I'm partially bald and my beard is patchy.

However, once past the first excruciating experiments, all becomes clear and understandable. The bit depth dictates all. However, I've opted for lap and box joints -- much faster; with glue -- equally as strong.

The trick I found was to get as many manuals together as I could, study them all and merge their contents. Not one is sufficient on it's own.

Hope this helps.
I'm with you all the way, Ron. I like the looks of dovetails but that's all I like about them. I learned to do them by hand over 50 years ago and, have used numerous router jigs, too.
I've heard and read that it's possible to whip out a dove tail joint by hand in the same time you could do it by machine. That has NOT been my experience.
But to your point, I'm in complete agreement that a box joint is every bit as structurally strong as a dovetailed one, if not stronger.
Gene
 

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Hi Guys

I need to disagree, the dovetail is much stronger than the box joint ,you don't need to put them on 3/4" center you can make them as big as you need,lets say 1 every 4" of stock,you don't need glue because the way the dovetail cut..it's almost self locking almost, unlike the box joint..:) that will pull apart..
The through dovetail is the same as a box joint but much stronger :)
more mass the norm..

Now if we are talking about blind dovetails they are not as strong as the box joints, less mass the norm..

"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions."
MIKE
Senior Moderator

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I just purchased the same one. I look forward to following this Thread to see what people think. Ill be using it this weekend and will post my opinion then.
 

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Hi Guys

I need to disagree, the dovetail is much stronger than the box joint ,you don't need to put them on 3/4" center you can make them as big as you need,lets say 1 every 4" of stock,you don't need glue because the way the dovetail cut..it's almost self locking almost, unlike the box joint..:) that will pull apart..
The through dovetail is the same as a box joint but much stronger :)
more mass the norm..

Now if we are talking about blind dovetails they are not as strong as the box joints, less mass the norm..

"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions."
MIKE
Senior Moderator

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Given the same pin/finger sizes, I'd think the BJ would be far stronger due to the taper inherent in the through DT. But, I've been wrong before....a few times.:D
Considering the quality of today's glues, what strength differences that do exist may be strictly academic, anyway.
As far as I know none of my joints of either type have ever failed....as far as I know;)
 

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"Testing Joints to the Breaking Point" by Bruce Gray - M&T beats dovetail

"Joinery, We push 18 popular frame joints to the breaking point" Douglas Moore and Thomas McKenna strongest = half lap joint, weakest = stub tenon.

"Dovetail joint vs box joint -- Comparing the strength of a dovetail joint to a box joint " Dovetail joint vs box joint dovetail loses box joint wins.

'nuf said
 
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