Phenolic Faced Baltic Birch Plywood
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/phenolic-faced-plywood-18mm-3-4-x-24-x-32
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/phenolic-faced-plywood-18mm-3-4-x-24-x-32
Mini router table home build
I know this topic will have been covered so apologies for repost. Making a home build mini router table for Makita trim router. What would be best material for the table top?
All it is now is 18 mm MDF, should top face be covered with A laminate of some sort?
Been trying to find 6 or 9mm MDF sheet with one side melamine but no luck, Formica seems to be unavailable now and a laminate sheet With a smooth face is again difficult to find. Any suggestions as to what to use.
All it is now is 18 mm MDF, should top face be covered with A laminate of some sort?
Been trying to find 6 or 9mm MDF sheet with one side melamine but no luck, Formica seems to be unavailable now and a laminate sheet With a smooth face is again difficult to find. Any suggestions as to what to use.
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I don’t know about down in the U S but here where I am there are several hardware stores that sell 2 x 4 laminate pieces, probably from damaged sheets. I’ve used those to make table tops with including a coffee table top for my daughter. A sink cut out works too. If you’re bolting the router through the top you might want to rout out a pocket for it to sit in maybe leaving about 3/8” of material.
@des4170
As the others have said above. However, if you are unable to source a laminate during lockdown, have you considered temporarily just sealing the mdf and waxing it after the sealant is cured? The smooth surface is only to reduce friction on the workpiece - unless aesthetics are important to you.
BTW, since you have a trim router (you do not specify a model), have you seen the Lee Valley mini router table? There was a thread on the forum just recently.
As the others have said above. However, if you are unable to source a laminate during lockdown, have you considered temporarily just sealing the mdf and waxing it after the sealant is cured? The smooth surface is only to reduce friction on the workpiece - unless aesthetics are important to you.
BTW, since you have a trim router (you do not specify a model), have you seen the Lee Valley mini router table? There was a thread on the forum just recently.
Youre looking for Melamine. Or even Masonite (although that is very brittle).
But why are you only using a 1/4" router? Are a modeller?
If not you are very quickly going to wish you had saved all that hard work and used a 1/2" router instead.
The clue is in the title, makita EDGE TRIMMER. Its not going to like large bits.
Decent ply is adequate, just wax it or cover it with shellac
But why are you only using a 1/4" router? Are a modeller?
If not you are very quickly going to wish you had saved all that hard work and used a 1/2" router instead.
The clue is in the title, makita EDGE TRIMMER. Its not going to like large bits.
Decent ply is adequate, just wax it or cover it with shellac
Hello des4170.
Just for coincidence I am working at a mini router table. I had three small pieces of 16mm agglomerated that were joined by means of 5mm splines to get a bigger piece. Then I laminated a 10mm MDF onto the agglomerated.
Two colours HPL were applied to each plank side and finally, the edges were covered with 12mm solid wood. This is a WIP so more details will be offered later.
Just for coincidence I am working at a mini router table. I had three small pieces of 16mm agglomerated that were joined by means of 5mm splines to get a bigger piece. Then I laminated a 10mm MDF onto the agglomerated.
Two colours HPL were applied to each plank side and finally, the edges were covered with 12mm solid wood. This is a WIP so more details will be offered later.
Hey, Des; in case you folks over there use a different descriptive, "HPL" is High Pressure Laminate...many different manufacturers.
Try a cabinet shop, the type of shop that builds modular kitchen cabinets; they'll likely have offcuts that will do perfectly,or even a precut cabinet gable.
Most shops do a run of standard parts that won't need custom laminating. Way cheaper than you buying full or 1/2 sheets yourself.
Biagio mentioned the Lee Valley mini-router table. Here's what he was referring to; might give you some ideas(?).
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...0566-veritas-table-system-for-compact-routers
Try a cabinet shop, the type of shop that builds modular kitchen cabinets; they'll likely have offcuts that will do perfectly,or even a precut cabinet gable.
Most shops do a run of standard parts that won't need custom laminating. Way cheaper than you buying full or 1/2 sheets yourself.
Biagio mentioned the Lee Valley mini-router table. Here's what he was referring to; might give you some ideas(?).
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...0566-veritas-table-system-for-compact-routers
As Alexis mentioned, it's a good idea to have both sides coated, especially if there's humidity variations. If only one side is coated the top can easily warp. I have a piece of ply that's coated one one side only - it could easily be turned into a hygrometer by nailing down one end and calibrating the other. 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
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