Dunno, but if it was me I'd call the MirrorCoat people and ask them.

 

seems to me it would be fairly susceptible to chipping. Probably should run a little test on the same paint as the piece.

 

Berry; my first reaction would be 'No!' But then I wondered what you actually mean by "latex"...
That's a rocky road; do you mean water based, or do you mean real latex?
So much of what is now available in waterbased coatings is likely acrylic or urethane. Even alkyd-acrylic.
Why do you want to put epoxy over the existing?
I'm pretty sure that the epoxy solvent would melt the previous coating.

 

Is this it? https://www.systemthree.com/products/mirrorcoat-self-leveling-bartop-epoxy-coating It might adhere well to the latex, epoxies adhere to almost anything, but that doesn't mean that the latex will hold to whatever it's on.

 

Is this it? It might adhere well to the latex, epoxies adhere to almost anything, but that doesn't mean that the latex will hold to whatever it's on.

That is the material I had in mind with my first post.

So here's the back story....We've purchased an older wooden cabinet from a 2nd hand store. At some point it was painted. It has a grey metallic look. (The paint defiantly was brushed on.) My wife wants me to convert it into a bathroom vanity (cut out a holes for the sink, facet and plumbing). I was thinking that MirrorCoat would provide max protection of all the stuff the surface will come in contact with.

I emailed a contact on the link Chuck provided and I waiting to hear.

Thanks for your help.

 

Epoxy would be your best bet for waterproofness. I saw a list years ago that listed finishes by their ability to resistant water penetration and epoxy was the top choice. I think I would try to get down to bare wood though. Epoxies usually generate heat when they cure and heat is one of the best ways to remove latex finishes. If the paint job is really old looking it might be an enamel instead. It would resist being damaged during the curing process better but I'm still not sure about how well the epoxy would adhere to it. If you wanted to color the wood I would use a water based stain. I think they are more like dyes than stains. I like using a product from Quebec called Saman. I can use oil or water based finishes on top of it.

 

I used the link Chuck provided and contacted them this morning with my question. I heard back from System Three Resins and this is the reply
The MirrorCoat contains zero solvents and should not react with the paint. However, I always like to test a small inconspicuous area just to be 100% sure. Sanding the surface always helps to remove any uncertainties as well. Best of luck to you on your project!

So I'll purchase some and try it on the side nearest the wall which won't be seen later.

Thanks to everyone! I've I'm allowed to post pics when it's done I will.

 

Good to know, Berry; another tool never hurts, eh?
Please let us know how it works out. Pictures too if possible.

(Zero solvents is great news on the health front as well. What do they recommend for cleanup?)