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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi

This just update to the MLCS Horizontal Router Table

I have the older model and it comes with a 5/8" thick top,it's a bit tricky to get the holes in place for the black knobs that hold the top at a angle.
(see note below about the threaded inserts, it will not come with them, 4 each is needed) the knobs are 6mm thread, that was the biggest error I had to over come,the top is only 5/8" thick , I had some in the SAE (1/4-20 size) but no room to put them in place, so I made my own out of some 5/16" copper tubing I put in 6mm threads and press them into the holes that must be drilled dead on..with a little bit of super glue they are in place to stay..
I know others will find a better way than the copper tubing but it worked for me :), metric stuff just drive me nuts. (metric threaded inserts) :(

And you know me I had to make a little jig for that job.. LOL

I will say it's neat accessory/fixture why move/pitch the router you just need to move the table top..to the angle you need..I did check the holding gauges on the side on the table top and it's right on the money..it's a item that you will not use to many times but when you need a mill at a angle it will be a real plus for the shop..


Horizontal Router Table

NOTE: Older Horizontal Tables will require the installation of four threaded inserts (6mm) to use this accessory table.

Horizontal Router Table Feature Demo: table Construction

MLCS Horizontal Router Table

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Pretty neat, did you put the track in the original table yourself?
I'm a little surprised that they did not include the threaded inserts in the kit.

I see that the XY upgrade needs a track which I would have to add to my original setup.

Like you said, don't need 'em very often but either upgrade would be worthwhile when you do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Hi Tom

Thanks, I did put the tee track in place on the original, " threaded inserts in the kit" me too but the original is only 5/8" thick, all the threaded insert I have would take a 1/2" hole, not to much meat left in the chip board for a 1/2" hole:( that was the biggest fear I had, blowing out the edge and coming out the top or the bottom of the top or lifting up the cover on original and put in bump in place.

I should say I'm not a big fan of the newer model they use 4 knobs to hold the plate in place ( I don't know how you can get your hand into the lower knobs on the plate all the time) as you can see they have a cut outs for that in the new top but the new model is 1" thick that's a plus so I would say just use 2 knobs to hold the place in place.
I did block off the space in the original to let the Vac.system work better with just a quick port hole on the side of the cabinet /box..


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Pretty neat, did you put the track in the original table yourself?
I'm a little surprised that they did not include the threaded inserts in the kit.

I see that the XY upgrade needs a track which I would have to add to my original setup.

Like you said, don't need 'em very often but either upgrade would be worthwhile when you do.
 

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How would the geometry, ie pivot point relative to the quadrants, be affected if the threaded inserts were installed below the original table into a beefier applied cleat?
I suspect that 45 degree might be affected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Hi Tom

" cleats " under the top would not work well with the stock side plates I think, it would mess up the 45 deg.thing, I ran that also in my head and played with it..I think it would work if the side plates on the side where bigger (taller) you could make the slots in the plates longer but it would only add about a 1/4" or so.

I have some inserts with ears on them( Tinnerman type) I was going to try to screw them to the under side of the top but it would still mess up the 45 deg. thing...

I guess it's a re invent the wheel thing with bigger plates.. :)
and lift the cabinet/box off the work bench by 2" or more so they have the room to drop down, see picture of the table with the stock plates in place they are right at the bottom of the cabinet/box.

I should say I don't have that error I have the table in a work shop tool kart with the room to drop the plates down.. :)

I guess I should also say not to happy with the tee track, has a small dent on one end from the shipper, it's fine but I will need to sand it clean so I can use it without hanging up the sled that I use from time to time...

I took off the NASTY metric 6mm knobs and made my own in the SAE way (1/4-20 ) and to add a little bit of JAZZ to the jig.:)

http://www.routerforums.com/project-plans-how/9782-best-both-worlds.html

hey Tom

Talk about " cleats " I'm going to remove the threaded inserts I put in and put in some shop made barrel/furniture nuts,, just more meat to hold on to in the PB stock.

http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/barrel-nut-furniture.html
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How would the geometry, ie pivot point relative to the quadrants, be affected if the threaded inserts were installed below the original table into a beefier applied cleat?
I suspect that 45 degree might be affected.
 

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