Why not just make straight edge guide and Clamp it to the board and route a long it
Modifying Bosch RA1054 edge guide
Context:
I'd like to route a dado about 16" in from the edge of a sheet.
Being perfectly parallel to the edge matters.
The RA1054's guide rods aren't long enough to do this, so I'm considering replacing them with a pair of longer steel rods. Per my micrometer, the rods are 9.65mm in diameter which seems an odd size. Switch to imperial and they're 49/128"... close enough to 3/8", which should be easily obtainable. (googling "49/128 inches in mm" yields 9.72mm, surprisingly far from the measured 9.65)
Questions:
1. Are there any hidden traps for a router newbie in doing what I have in mind here - either the jig modification, or using it this way?
2. Has anyone already done this and can point me to rods that work?
Other musings...
I recognize that operating farther from the edge make the edge guide a bit more likely to shift and not stay square to the edge, but I think that's probably manageable at 16". In case it doesn't feel good, I may oversize the new rods to allow 18" depth, then use that extra 2" to fasten a longer fence into the edge guide.
It may be less hassle to simply build a single use edge guide for this operation... take a 12" x 24" sheet of 1/4" plywood or hardboard, mount the router at one end, attach a fence beneath the other end.
All input is welcome... especially the kind that saves me from errors and hazards.
I'd like to route a dado about 16" in from the edge of a sheet.
Being perfectly parallel to the edge matters.
The RA1054's guide rods aren't long enough to do this, so I'm considering replacing them with a pair of longer steel rods. Per my micrometer, the rods are 9.65mm in diameter which seems an odd size. Switch to imperial and they're 49/128"... close enough to 3/8", which should be easily obtainable. (googling "49/128 inches in mm" yields 9.72mm, surprisingly far from the measured 9.65)
Questions:
1. Are there any hidden traps for a router newbie in doing what I have in mind here - either the jig modification, or using it this way?
2. Has anyone already done this and can point me to rods that work?
Other musings...
I recognize that operating farther from the edge make the edge guide a bit more likely to shift and not stay square to the edge, but I think that's probably manageable at 16". In case it doesn't feel good, I may oversize the new rods to allow 18" depth, then use that extra 2" to fasten a longer fence into the edge guide.
It may be less hassle to simply build a single use edge guide for this operation... take a 12" x 24" sheet of 1/4" plywood or hardboard, mount the router at one end, attach a fence beneath the other end.
All input is welcome... especially the kind that saves me from errors and hazards.
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Better to use a guide and run the router's base against it...boom...done.
Any straight edge long enough to be clamped at each end will do the job.
There are several on the market and straight guides are good to have.
Your instincts are correct...the further the router, the harder to manage...
Any straight edge long enough to be clamped at each end will do the job.
There are several on the market and straight guides are good to have.
Your instincts are correct...the further the router, the harder to manage...
I have rods 10' long...
3/8'' works...
trap the board between two edge guides...
when you use really long rods put the trammel half way between the router and the edge guide's head...
all said and done use a clamp on guide or make a guide board..
this one is a pretty tough guide that doesn't flex... Pro-Grip Straight Edge Clamps
I think the Bora brand clamps suck...
3/8'' works...
trap the board between two edge guides...
when you use really long rods put the trammel half way between the router and the edge guide's head...
all said and done use a clamp on guide or make a guide board..
this one is a pretty tough guide that doesn't flex... Pro-Grip Straight Edge Clamps
I think the Bora brand clamps suck...
I could clamp on a guide, but that adds another potential source of error since being precisely parallel to the edge is critical... so trapping the board between two edge guides is a really interesting option!
Stick, can you explain this? I think you're using the trammel to support the rods and maintain their spacing over a longer span from edge guide to router. Is that the intent?I have rods 10' long...
when you use really long rods put the trammel half way between the router and the edge guide's head...
yes....Stick, can you explain this? I think you're using the trammel to support the rods and maintain their spacing over a longer span from edge guide to router. Is that the intent?
use a spacer...I could clamp on a guide, but that adds another potential source of error since being precisely parallel to the edge is critical...
the edge of your board is not straight unless you straighten it...
a straight edge will give you a much straighter grove...
see the PDF...
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Ashley when I need something as accurate as you need the last thing I try is measuring. Measuring necessarily requires interpolation. Cut a stick the length you need and use it as a gauge to distance a guide strip from the edge. Directly transferring a measurement is always more accurate than measuring.
Ok, it seems I've narrowed to equally viable options...
A. Acquire a couple long 3/8" rods and a second RA1054. Sandwich the workpiece between the edge guides and route wherever I like. Prerequisite: parallel workpiece edges.
B. Clamp on a straightedge and route along it. Eliminate the error setting the straightedge with spacers.
Although I like the double edge guide trick, Chuck's comment reminds me that I have another use for adjustable spacers elsewhere. I'm thinking of tweaking this design:
Something like that will perfectly set my clamp on straightedge and the problem is solved.
Thanks everyone for poking and prodding me to multiple solutions better than where I started!
A. Acquire a couple long 3/8" rods and a second RA1054. Sandwich the workpiece between the edge guides and route wherever I like. Prerequisite: parallel workpiece edges.
B. Clamp on a straightedge and route along it. Eliminate the error setting the straightedge with spacers.
Although I like the double edge guide trick, Chuck's comment reminds me that I have another use for adjustable spacers elsewhere. I'm thinking of tweaking this design:
Something like that will perfectly set my clamp on straightedge and the problem is solved.
Thanks everyone for poking and prodding me to multiple solutions better than where I started!
Those are a great idea. I think I'll make myself a set.
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
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