[sreilly]

I just got the Lapped Miter Bit from Infinity and really like the concept and amount of glue surface it provides. It also seems to do well with plywood. I did get the setup blocks and this gets you really close. When I finally dialed in the fence depth and got a good clean cut I made a sample to keep with the plywood I generally use. I did this with my rails and stiles set as well (w/hardwood). I have a fence micro adjuster coming tomorrow for my Woodpeckers Super Fence which I highly recommend (the fence). I'll report back on the Micro Adjuster after setting up and using. The question really involves the assembly of the parts when using the Lapped Miter Bits. As you have two 45 degree corners coming together to make the 90 getting the two point exact is key to a clean corner. The best corner clamps I've found and used are the Bessey WS3 corner clamps and even those are hard to align the corners and tighten the clamp at the same time. The Kreg corner clamps, the newer ones, seem to work OK if you have a set of other corner clamps already holding one side together.

What I was making was a table saw blade cabinet to store my blades. Seems like a good design and overall it came out fairly good, could be cleaner corners, but key was more the assembly than the actual cuts. Anyone have words of knowledge to impart? I have to admit the lock miter joint is way easier to clamp and square but shows the plywood edges where the lapped miter joint never shows the plywood edge and looks better (to me) plus I have an investment in this now so getting it right just got a bit more important. I do have the Woodpeckers Box Clamps but find them clunky to use. Maybe I didn't spend enough time trying to adjust them properly. It came down to trying to see, adjust and keep parts aligned all at the same time. And then it could have had something to do with the time of night and being tired. Maybe I need to learn to walk away from a problem and then come back later. That use to work and often I'd dream about it solving the problem. Now not so much, I seem to be less patient.

 

[Cherryville Chuck]

I think most of us would agree that the common corner clamp like this: https://www.amazon.ca/OCGIG-Degree-...342&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=corner+clamps&psc=1 or this: https://www.amazon.ca/Clamp-Zilong-...&qid=1528990342&sr=1-2&keywords=corner+clamps are hard to use. They either don't pull the joint together or pull one side past the other. With that joint you're making I would lightly clamp so that the flats pull together and then clamp across the other side to pull the miters together just using ordinary clamps that span across the entire frame. Once you have both directions clamped then you could tighten a bit more but keep in mind one fact. The most common cause of joint failure is applying too much clamping pressure. If it's a good fitting joint then snug is enough.

 

[sreilly]

Thanks for the advice and yes, I agree that too much pressure means it's a bad fitting joint. Clamping with the additional bar clamp would bring those two pieces together. I went to Bessey's webiste and looked at their video on tehse clamps and have a few ideas to try and realized that they will be great for my face frame pocket hole assemblies. Should have looked at that before...

 

[sreilly]

I think what is going to make a huge difference in this bit in particular as well as many others will be the finite fence control for setting depth. What I just did a few days ago is order, receive, and install the Woodpeckers Micro Adjuster for their Super Fence that I use on my router table. The design was originally by Norm Abram I believe and adapted by Dan Phalenb and titled Ultimate Router Table. I bought the router table top from JessEm and the fence was the Woodpeckers Super Fence. Now I've added the Micro Adjuster and so far I can see where you can make extremely small controlled adjustments in both directions. Looking at the threaded rod it incorporates explains it all. One complete turn of the know, I'm guessing about 1", moves the fence 1/32". The only fault I see is not having a means to use a cordless drill to make major movements. That said it's really unnecessary as you simple loosen the knobs for the bolts in the T-Track and slide the fence back/forwards and retighten. But if you wanted to reference off the back end of the router table you'd have some winding to do. Just saying. I know this sounds like an ad for WP but I'm truly excited about this addition. And one thing I just recently learned is you have 30 days to decide if you like their stuff or you can send it back. I didn't know that until I unpacked this unit. Anyway I thought I'd post a few pictures of the unit installed for those interested. Not sure if this will work on other fences but I can't see why. You may need to adapt how it connects but as long as you have two T-Tracks parallel on the back you should be good to go. You'll see what I mean in a moment. Hopefully I'll have the opportunity to work with this later this week after finishing up some "honey do's". You know that "Happy wife " thingy they say........

 

[Cherryville Chuck]

I don't think many would attempt to dispute Woodpecker's quality. You just have to get past the price they want.

 

[DesertRatTom]

The value has exceeded the price for me twice on Woodpecker stuff. Sometimes they offer an expensive fix for something that ISN'T a problem.
'

 

[DaninVan]

"...they offer an expensive fix for something that ISN'T a problem. "
-Tom

That's what I keep trying to tell SWMBO!