Mortise For Cabinet Hinge.....Will My Plan Work?

DesertRatTom said:

Very difficult to control a mortising bit freehand. You need to use a template. Make the template long enough to clamp firmly to the faceframe below, or above the mortise location. You haven't shown the hinges you're using, but there are offset hinges made just for this purpose. That's a pretty deep mortise for a hinge, which is why I mentioned the offset hinges. I'd check the hinge issue out before cutting anything.

Making a template for me means drawing an outline of the hinge piece onto the template material, then cutting it out with a bandsaw. Then a little sanding to smooth out the edges.

You might have to make an extra thick tempate for this to work right. I have great results from a half inch Yonico bit I use just for this kind of job. If necessary, you may still have to do some chisel work to square up the corners, depending on the hinge shape.

Here's a 3/8ths mortising bit that might work for you. https://www.amazon.com/Yonico-14122q-8-Inch-Diameter-Template/dp/B088GV3W8Q/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3M2304Z7CJJGF&keywords=3/8ths+mortising+bit+for+routing&qid=1664212270&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIxLjg5IiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ==&s=hi&sprefix=3/8ths+mortising+bit+for+routing,tools,150&sr=1-3&th=1

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JIMMIEM said:

I made a typo....meant to say mortise will be 1/16" deep. I made the template from 1/2" thick MDF. I cut the hinge outline in the template on the router table. I did order a Yonico bit like you recommended. I bought the 1/2" diameter 1" long bit. I'll do some test cuts and chisel work in some scrap.

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JIMMIEM said:

I'll do some test cuts and chisel work in some scrap.

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JIMMIEM said:

I'm making a Face Frame Cabinet with 1/2" overlay doors. The cabinet and doors are completed. The door edges rub together. I would like to remedy this by cutting mortises in the edges of the face frames so that the hinges will be recessed 1/6". I don't think that I could get flat bottom mortises with a chisel so I would like to use a router and template.
Ideally I would like to rest the cabinet on its side(s) and have the router 'stand' on the inner edge of the face frame ....BUT the hinge locations are too close to the top and bottom rails and there wouldn't be enough clearance for the trim router. So, I figure that I will have to route with the router 'standing' on the face of the face frame. I took a straight piece of MDF and cut a 1/16" mortise in it's edge. I would clamp the MDF template to the front of the face frame and use a patterning/template bit.
Does this sound feasible? Any other recommendations or suggestions.
Thank You.

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JIMMIEM said:

I'm making a Face Frame Cabinet with 1/2" overlay doors. The cabinet and doors are completed. The door edges rub together. I would like to remedy this by cutting mortises in the edges of the face frames so that the hinges will be recessed 1/6". I don't think that I could get flat bottom mortises with a chisel so I would like to use a router and template.
Ideally I would like to rest the cabinet on its side(s) and have the router 'stand' on the inner edge of the face frame ....BUT the hinge locations are too close to the top and bottom rails and there wouldn't be enough clearance for the trim router. So, I figure that I will have to route with the router 'standing' on the face of the face frame. I took a straight piece of MDF and cut a 1/16" mortise in it's edge. I would clamp the MDF template to the front of the face frame and use a patterning/template bit.
Does this sound feasible? Any other recommendations or suggestions.
Thank You.

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DesertRatTom said:

I have a Veritas router plane. It is wonderful for clearing out a shallow mortise like this. This comes with several different irons. You mark the outline of the hinge, use a chisel to cut it to roughly the correct depth, then use the plane to remove clear the bottom. Hadn't thought of this, but it would be terrific for some of the odd shaped decorative hinges out there. It is a real pleasure to use.
View attachment 402617

And it has an attachment for cutting and doing inlays.
View attachment 402618
That thing is nice, Tom. Mine is the Stanley 71 with standard stops and cutters from way back. For cabinet hinges, I was thinking the Stanley 271 that'll fit in your pocket.

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JIMMIEM said:

I'm making a Face Frame Cabinet with 1/2" overlay doors. The cabinet and doors are completed. The door edges rub together. I would like to remedy this by cutting mortises in the edges of the face frames so that the hinges will be recessed 1/6". I don't think that I could get flat bottom mortises with a chisel so I would like to use a router and template.
Ideally I would like to rest the cabinet on its side(s) and have the router 'stand' on the inner edge of the face frame ....BUT the hinge locations are too close to the top and bottom rails and there wouldn't be enough clearance for the trim router. So, I figure that I will have to route with the router 'standing' on the face of the face frame. I took a straight piece of MDF and cut a 1/16" mortise in it's edge. I would clamp the MDF template to the front of the face frame and use a patterning/template bit.
Does this sound feasible? Any other recommendations or suggestions.
Thank You.

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JimmieMcD said:

Have you considered taking a 1/32” slice off each door?

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Rob Bragg said:

I made a mortise jig from Wood Worker Journal that works great on just about any width and depth.

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JIMMIEM said:

Yes, but the door edges are rounded over and have a fillet. I don't want to take a chance on getting the bit set-up dialed in again. I figured the mortises would be less risky.

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Rob Bragg said:

With the door clamp in place it won’t matter the the door is rounded. Once set it won’t change on any of the doors clamped in. I’ll see if I can find the article. I’ll post pictures of the one I made if that helps?

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Rob Bragg said:

View attachment 402663
View attachment 402664

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