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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This jig is replacement for the old one I had.

Bearing ▼ from Oak-Park also

http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=RTA--&product=MBK0990
OR
Mortise Centering Router Base,here's just one more way for 20.00 bucks
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17847&filter=34553
http://www.rockler.com/gallery.cfm?Offerings_ID=17847&TabSelect=Details

or pickup 2ea. 1/4-20 x 3" brass bolts and cut off the heads and some of the threads and drill and tap your base plate to take on the 2 brass studs...

JUST a Note, Jerry ask how do you put the slot in the ends,??
I just added a picture or two showing how to do that...
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Below,,just one more way to get the job done

Mortise Centering Router Base
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17847&filter=mortises
http://www.rockler.com/gallery.cfm?Offerings_ID=17847&TabSelect=Details

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Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I should note that the base is 5 1/4" wide X 24" long. (Poplar)
The sides are glued and screwed into place with 4ea. 8 x 1 3/4" drywall screws.

Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)

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If the Mortise is the hole that the Tenon fits into, I make them using a fence and a laser sight from a pistol which I hung from a rafter. I shine the light beam directly on the tip of the bit and mark the piece on the top. The laser light shines on the top of the piece and shows me where to start and where to stop. By hiting the marks I have drawn I follow the light to the next mark knowing that the bit is directly below the light and is doing its job of making an exact cut. I use the same method for making initials on the head board of doll beds. I use a computer to make the initials, copy them into the Paint program and ask that program to reverse them. I print that and tape it to the top of the piece of wood. The laser follows those letters and makes a correct copy on the reverse side.
 

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bobj3 said:
Hi mowerhappy1

That's the beauty of the jig it will setup the board width automatically, the bearings on the base will do the work for you, the geometry of the bearings set the slot on dead center of the board.
It can be 3/8" to 4" or more wide boards the slot will always be on dead center.

You can also move it to one side or the other by adding a board to the side or to say to the width, this will move the bit over to one side or the other..

see drawing below, (HowItWorks)

Bj :)
Bob,

I am probably very dense... but this is about the only picture that started to make sense to me... in most of the others, I can't tell a Workpiece from part of the jig... if there is a workpiece... It's hard for me to see exactly what you're trying to show... Maybe, instead of actual pictures, mechanical drawings like this one would be easier...??

It appears now, that the router base corner bearings ride against the Workpiece or spacers held by wedges to eventually get the bit to cut in the desired spot (rather than in middle)???

Very confusing to me... but, as I said, I guess I'm just too dense... or need to really study it for a few hours... (??)

Does this one jig make Mortises and Tenons?? At first, I thought so, but now, I don't know...

Thank you... & Merry Christmas!!
 

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Idea for improvement of the jig...

Instead of having separate boards for the centering bearings to roll on... why not...

Have the bearings roll on the outside of the router support sides... the sides being adjustable via sliding dovetails in the base...

Proceed to use as now... but with a little more flexibility...

What do you think?
 
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