[Mike]

This is the one jig of Bob and Ricks designs that I do not care for. Does it work? Yes. Is there an easier way? I think so. The current ShopNotes (volumn 15, issue 90) has a much simpler way to rout mortises. While it is not self centering it is quick and easy to build and use. The image is the edge guide jig. A second fence is added and you manually center your router for the cut. It does not get any easier than this.

 

[bobj3]

Hi Mike

This is one of the best jigs Bob and Rick have come with

 

[Joe Lyddon]

This is the one jig of Bob and Ricks designs that I do not care for. Does it work? Yes. Is there an easier way? I think so. The current ShopNotes (volumn 15, issue 90) has a much simpler way to rout mortises. While it is not self centering it is quick and easy to build and use. The image is the edge guide jig. A second fence is added and you manually center your router for the cut. It does not get any easier than this.

I tend to agree... this jig on page 11 of said issue is one of the Simplest and Easiest mortising jigs I have seen...

If you want a mortise on the edge for a hinge... or 3/8" from the edge...
all you have to is slide the guides into place and make the cut... just that simple...

No clamping required, except for the workpiece and stop blocks... no wedges...

If you haven't seen it, you should... It's a true gem!

IMHO...

I do not want to be restricted to have mortises ALWAYS in the middle... I want to be able to put them wherever I want... If I want them in the middle, I could use a similiar jig as Bob & Ricks jig to just mark it out... then cut it with this one.

 

[bobj3]

I just took a look at it

 

[Joe Lyddon]

Bob,

That's it!

Looks real simple to me...

How did you find that URL?? Is there an index?

 

[bobj3]

Hi Joe

DO a google

 

[Mike]

BJ, If you stop and think about it this jig does a lot more than allow you to place mortises where you want them. By retracting both fences fully you can use the ends of the fences like the bearings to auto-center your mortise. By removing one fence you have an excellent edge guide. Take off both fences and you have the oversized base plate for many projects. When installing the aprons on a table we may want to offset our tenons for a clean recessed look. We all know that the more glue surfaces, the stronger the joint. For this reason we can stack two tenons instead of using one larger tenon. Let's say we are mortising some 4 x 4 stock. A quick adjustment of our fences will set the mortise 1" from the edge. By simply turning the jig around we will have a mirror image ready to rout for the other side. Remember we are using our layout marks on the wood for exact position of the cuts so they will be repeatable and precise. I think this jig would be better if built from Plexiglas or Lexan using HDPE or UHMW for the fences and some nicer knobs. Other than that I don't think you can beat it with a stick.
One other thing, I believe Bob and Rick's design was developed for cutting the mortise into an angled leg and used a wedge to set the proper angle. When holding an irregular shape their method shines.

 

[bobj3]

Hi Mike

I will make one and test it out.
---------------------------

Just a update ,I did make one and now it's the fireplace.
Do I need to say any more.

Bj

 

[Mike]

I could be mistaken about the jig, but if not this one a similar design was used for the angled leg mortises. It is a simple matter to clamp the part to be mortised between two pieces of wood in a vice to hold it. This would serve as your guides for centering. Let's not nit-pic this to death, the idea is for the bulk of what we do the ShopNotes jig is a very handy addition to your shop. It can be used for more than one job and for this I give it a big thumbs up.

 

[bobj3]

Hi Mike

How this ?

Bj

 

[harrysin]

Morticing "Jig"

Gentlemen, I must be thick as I simply do not understand this very complex looking method of making simple mortices. Hands up all of you out there who feel the same. May I at this point plead with Template Tom to show us the simple way that he produces loose tenons. Perhaps some actual photographs of the operation may have helped me to understand. The saying "a picture is worth a thousand words" seems to have been forgotten by certain members of the forum. Harry

 

[challagan]

I like this one bj posted for mortising table legs. With the jig and the router base with the bearings on it that self center on the work piece would make this pretty easy operation.

I like the one Mike posted as well for general slot work. Would like to see a better photo of it.



Corey

 

[template tom]

Gentlemen, I must be thick as I simply do not understand this very complex looking method of making simple mortices. Hands up all of you out there who feel the same. May I at this point plead with Template Tom to show us the simple way that he produces loose tenons. Perhaps some actual photographs of the operation may have helped me to understand. The saying "a picture is worth a thousand words" seems to have been forgotten by certain members of the forum. Harry

Harry
I know we all have different ideas making some jigs and you are well aware of the jig I constructed as you would have used it when attending my workshops many years ago.
I must confess Bob I was also confused with the 'complexity of the jig' as Harry puts it.
I think I would have great difficulty controlling the router running on the two bearings and I am sure if the truth be known there were a few 'Slip-ups' at the beginning as it would take quite a bit to control the router along the sides with the bearings.
I am sure I have posted my 'simple' Mortice Jig before on this forum and at Harry's request I will post some pics. I must point out this is not an adjustable jig but a designated jig for routing a 6mm mortice in a 19mm stile.
I can produce another simple jig for any other size of material. They are always ready for use without any alterations each time.
Only two pieces are required for each jig and the length of the mortice's are controlled more easily.
I have used the 40mm guide as this will not restrict the view of the 6mm cutter.

1 Drawing of the completed Jig
2 Jig in position on a simple stand where the clamp can be added
3. Adjustment made to the stand to insert mortice in rails suitable for 'Floating Tenons' (Loose)
4 One stile was used as a height support
5 Completed mortices
I hope this has shown how mortices can be cut with the router with greater safety. (It must be safe or I would not have given it to the VIPs I was teaching)
Tom

 

[template tom]

I like this one bj posted for mortising table legs. With the jig and the router base with the bearings on it that self center on the work piece would make this pretty easy operation.

I like the one Mike posted as well for general slot work. Would like to see a better photo of it.



Corey

Corey
Again there are other jigs designed to rout for mortices in tapered legs I am in the process of making front legs for a dining room chair. The material is set into the jig and the legs are tapered then the mortice is inserted completing the process before the material is removed. All that is required is to cut the waste material from the base on the leg

 

[bobj3]

Hi Tom

I wish I could take credit for this great Morise Jig but I Can't ,this great jig is Bob & Ricks way of putting in Morise, My Heros , I have used the box jig like yours b/4 I saw how Bob and Rick did it and it blew my mind how neat it was and easy it is, as you know most stock is not always true,(5/8" to 13/16" thick) it can be off just a bit and this will put the slot off just a bit but with Bob and Ricks jig it will always be right on the button,dead center of the stock.
Plus if you want the slot off to one side of a leg it just takes a spacer in the jig to move the bit over to one side or the other of the leg for a apron part of the table, it's a great jig that Bob came up with and if you try it you will also say WOW I like it.
The Sq. router base will do all the work for you with the bearing on the corners of the base plate.
It's a simple design and it's base on geometry ,any two points of contact and the one in the center will always be inline with the two contact points, in can be 1/4" up to 12" wide stock and more.

I should note*** You don't need to make a jig for this type of plunge router setup if you don't want to, the stock can be just put into the wood vise on the work bench and just plunge in and then put the slots in quick and easy with the Oak-Park bearing base plate.
The only thing the jig does is keep the bit sq. and true to the stock.

The bearings that Oak-Park sales have a brass spacer with them that puts the bearing down deeper on the side of stock to help keep it strait and true to the stock.
So to say you can use 1 1/2" or 2" bolts and longer spacers to get the job done without a support jig at all.
I have done it this way and it's a quick way to get it done, but if you put a slot at the end of the ( leg/rail ) you need a end block so the bearing can ride on it at the end of the pass.
SEE SNAPSHOT BELOW ▼

But the key is the base plate with the bearings on it.

You may not get the RWS show but maybe send off for some of Episodes you will see Bob and Ricks use this router setup all the time. (router base plate with the bearings )(RWS ,Chair Side Table)

Bearings from Oak-Park to make your own base plate jig.
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=RTA--&product=MBK0990

I should say a word about the Tenon,, Oak-Park sells a great bit just for this type of cut, it's a great bit and will put on the Tenon in one pass on the router table, they also sale a jig (Raised Panel System) to use this great bit but the jig is a easy one to make if you want to, the bit will put on a 1/4" wide teton 1" long but it can be use to put on 3/8" and 1/2" wide teton as well, Bob and Rick did show how to do that when they made a mission type table (Chair Side Table, in Part one of two).
http://www.routerworkshop.com/epage.html

Here's link to the bit so you can have a look see
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=RBIT-MTB-
This bit will also make 1/4" wide splines quick and easy just a plus for this bit.

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"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions."
MIKE
Senior Moderator
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Bj

 

[Joe Lyddon]

Harry
I know we all have different ideas making some jigs and you are well aware of the jig I constructed as you would have used it when attending my workshops many years ago.
I must confess Bob I was also confused with the 'complexity of the jig' as Harry puts it.
I think I would have great difficulty controlling the router running on the two bearings and I am sure if the truth be known there were a few 'Slip-ups' at the beginning as it would take quite a bit to control the router along the sides with the bearings.
I am sure I have posted my 'simple' Mortice Jig before on this forum and at Harry's request I will post some pics. I must point out this is not an adjustable jig but a designated jig for routing a 6mm mortice in a 19mm stile.
I can produce another simple jig for any other size of material. They are always ready for use without any alterations each time.
Only two pieces are required for each jig and the length of the mortice's are controlled more easily.
I have used the 40mm guide as this will not restrict the view of the 6mm cutter.

1 Drawing of the completed Jig
2 Jig in position on a simple stand where the clamp can be added
3. Adjustment made to the stand to insert mortice in rails suitable for 'Floating Tenons' (Loose)
4 One stile was used as a height support
5 Completed mortices
I hope this has shown how mortices can be cut with the router with greater safety. (It must be safe or I would not have given it to the VIPs I was teaching)
Tom

Tom,

When I look at your jigs, I see a Base unit of three boards and a Top unit of three boards.

I'm trying to see what two boards are used for the jigs.

I'm guessing that:
1. The Base is the Base and is fixed.
2. The top of the Top unit is fixed and you just change the bottom two that straddle the Base unit. (but, it seems like the Base unit verticals would also have to be changed so the Top unit would 'straddle' it better.)
3. The top of the Top, I would think, would probably also need to be changed depending on the mortise width & length desired. (??)

It looks like it's straight forward to actually use it.

What am I missing?

I found a Mortising jig that inherited from my father-in-law... Porter Cable or Sears I think... It clamps onto a main support in a vise... the workpiece clamps on to the support... the adjustable sliding thick metal windows slide side to side & front to back. Once adjusted for the mortise, set the router on top, plunge & cut (probably in a few passes).

When I get my computer working better, I will take a picture of it and post it for all to see... It took me awhile to figure it out... but once I did, the lights sure shined!

Later,

 

[challagan]

Harry
I know we all have different ideas making some jigs and you are well aware of the jig I constructed as you would have used it when attending my workshops many years ago.
I must confess Bob I was also confused with the 'complexity of the jig' as Harry puts it.
I think I would have great difficulty controlling the router running on the two bearings and I am sure if the truth be known there were a few 'Slip-ups' at the beginning as it would take quite a bit to control the router along the sides with the bearings.
I am sure I have posted my 'simple' Mortice Jig before on this forum and at Harry's request I will post some pics. I must point out this is not an adjustable jig but a designated jig for routing a 6mm mortice in a 19mm stile.
I can produce another simple jig for any other size of material. They are always ready for use without any alterations each time.
Only two pieces are required for each jig and the length of the mortice's are controlled more easily.
I have used the 40mm guide as this will not restrict the view of the 6mm cutter.

1 Drawing of the completed Jig
2 Jig in position on a simple stand where the clamp can be added
3. Adjustment made to the stand to insert mortice in rails suitable for 'Floating Tenons' (Loose)
4 One stile was used as a height support
5 Completed mortices
I hope this has shown how mortices can be cut with the router with greater safety. (It must be safe or I would not have given it to the VIPs I was teaching)
Tom

Tom, I like that jig, very simple and easy little jig to use and make. I still think if I was going to do a bunch of legs, bj's jig would be pretty slick once you get the base with the bearings made. Great looking jigs guys. I have saved a bunch of these photos of Tom and Bj for my jig folder!

Corey

Corey

 

[bobj3]

Mortise & Tenon Jig for the Plunge Router


JUST a Note, Jerry ask how do you put the slot in the ends,of the stretcher or rail ??
I just added a picture or two showing how to do that...
see link below ▼

Just clamp/screw the jig to the work bench or table top and slip it into the slot in the base ...
use one more wedge pair to lock it in place...

http://www.routerforums.com/27787-post1.html
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/2641-mortise-tenon-jig-plunge-router.html#post27787

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[rstermer]

This jig is replacement for the old one I had.

Bearing ▼ from Oak-Park also

http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=RTA--&product=MBK0990
OR
Mortise Centering Router Base,here's just one more way for 20.00 bucks
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17847&filter=34553
http://www.rockler.com/gallery.cfm?Offerings_ID=17847&TabSelect=Details

or pickup 2ea. 1/4-20 x 3" brass bolts and cut off the heads and some of the threads and drill and tap your base plate to take on the 2 brass studs...

JUST a Note, Jerry ask how do you put the slot in the ends,??
I just added a picture or two showing how to do that...
=====

Below,,just one more way to get the job done

Mortise Centering Router Base
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17847&filter=mortises
http://www.rockler.com/gallery.cfm?Offerings_ID=17847&TabSelect=Details

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Bj

Bob- The wedges in your jigs and fixtures always look so nice and uniform and appear to work real well! Do you have a recommendation as the best angle for a wedge (they look to be somewhere around 30 deg. or so)? Also, do you cut them using a tapering jig or have you come up with a special purpose jig to make them? If so, could you post a picture? Do you glue sandpaper to the straight edge that goes against the fixture? Thanks!
rstermer

 

[bobj3]

HI rstermer

Thanks,,,,I cut them on the Radio Arm Saw the norm...I do put sandpaper on some of them it helps lock them , I must have 40 or 50 of them made with hardwood from 1/2" thick to 1" thick...what ever cut offs I have around after a project ...the 1" hole is in place to remove them and keep the edges sparp and clean from hammer blows..


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