Mortises in red cedar 2x4

1980 Views 35 Replies 6 Participants Last post by domi125, 7 mo ago

domi125

Discussion Starter · 9 mo ago

hello from Canada again

here is my project. I want to make this garden arbor. The pieces A to E are going to have mortises.
A to D are the same and have a 1 1/2“ square ends. I want these to pass completely thru the 2x4 post.
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Parallel Arch Rectangle Plan Symmetry

so I have to make square 1 1/2“ mortises 1 1/2 deep.

I began by modifying my router base making this transparent plate according to a video I found.

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Not the best picture I agree.

My concern is to know how to reach the dept. Reading other posts on this subject gave me a fair idea of what to do : first bore as large hole I can. Then begin with my upcut spiral bit for as far as I can and finally flip and use a flush trim bit. I’m going to round the corner posts instead of squaring the mortises.

Do I have it right ? other ideas?

thanks for your help and excuse my English, it’s not my first language.
domi.

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domi125

Discussion Starter · #2 · 9 mo ago

Well I don’t know what to say but It seem either everything is ok or nobody cares because I see 50 views and not a single answer.
I’m going to take the good old method of trial and error. I’m really new to this type of router (plunge) and would have appreciated some help.
domi

jw2170

· #3 · 9 mo ago

Hi Domi, don't be phazed if you do not get an instant response.

A few of us are on the other side of the Globe and may not see you post for a few hours.
We are all casual members here trying to help other members.
It may be just visitors viewing you post

I presume you are going to use a mortising jig or template for the mortise?
You will need this to control the cut.
Just a transparent base by itself will not help.

Other than that, your method seems OK.

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Biagio

· #4 · 9 mo ago

Hi Domi, I must confess to not understanding your drawing. Not faulting your drawing, just my lack of understanding.
What do you mean by pieces A to E are going to have mortises? Are you going to have angled tenons on each side of piece E? And what do you mean by A to D?
James’ mortising jig works fine for linear mortises, but will not work for a 1 1/2” square mortise. Consider that you will be pulverizing a lot of wood - you may want to hog out a lot of the waste with a Forstner or auger type drill bit first, then clean up with the router. A suitable template and template guide on your router should permit you to square the round drill hole nicely.
Not sure why you are concerned about the depth - you want to go right through the 2x4? Also not sure why you want to flip and use a different router bit?

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domi125

Discussion Starter · #5 · 9 mo ago

Biagio said:
Hi Domi,
What do you mean by pieces A to E are going to have mortises?
you are right, I must have say will have tenons. Are you going to have angled tenons on each side of piece E? yes but only in the one on the vertical rail.
And what do you mean by A to D? these are styles that go through rails and are 1 1/2 x 1 1/2
James’ mortising jig works fine for linear mortises, but will not work for a 1 1/2” square mortise. that is why I began with this plexiglass gig. Looking how I can off center it to get my mortises in two or more passes. Consider that you will be pulverizing a lot of wood - you may want to hog out a lot of the waste with a Forstner or auger type drill bit first, then clean up with the router. You are right, this is my plan. A suitable template and template guide on your router should permit you to square the round drill hole nicely. I’m expecting to get this result.
Not sure why you are concerned about the depth - you want to go right through the 2x4? I would like the end of the tenon to show. Also not sure why you want to flip and use a different router bit? Because my router doesn’t plunge deep enough.

I will begin my tests soon with these new information.
Thanks

domi125

Discussion Starter · #6 · 9 mo ago

Hi James thanks for the jig PDF. I appreciate. And sorry for the complaining.
domi.

domi125

Discussion Starter · #7 · 9 mo ago

I made a few progress.
here is the beginning of the jig.

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then marking for blade pathway

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I then fixed my sides. Blade being at 1 inch of a side.

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the result after hole made with Forstner bit and passes on both 4 sides of the 2x4.

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for a first try, I’m happy. I won’t have to use a flush trim bit. I only need to flip the board. My router goes only to 1 1/4 inch deep.
now my concern is that how to remove the leftover ?
ideas and experiences welcomes.

domi.

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Biagio

· #8 · 9 mo ago

Domi, did your router come with a template guide Bushing?

domi125

Discussion Starter · #9 · 9 mo ago

I don’t think so.
let’s see

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witch part number would it be?

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domi125

Discussion Starter · #10 · 9 mo ago

last news.
I found a solution for my problem. Maybe not the best but it works.
using the Jig side as limit for the closer part of the mortise and adding a 1 1/4 “ spacer to root the far end. I’m going to begin by the far end then I will remove the spacer and root the closer part. I think I will have to add a screw on my board to prevent the jig to damage the far end.
this is the result of my first try.

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I’m happy with the flat bottom and I don’t want to make passing thru mortises anymore.
this is my “final“ jig.

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I have 16 to do. Precisely placed. I hope for the best. More tomorrow.

domi

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Oscar36

· #11 · 9 mo ago

Looking good so far. I've never used a router to make mortises so fun to see how they work with this method.

Biagio

· #12 · 9 mo ago

I don‘T see one in your parts list. Check with King Canada whether they have one - the base of the router looks like it will accept one. There are two black bolts near the opening that would hold it in place. Tell them for a 1/4” bit diameter.

You will find articles in this forum and elsewhere how to make a template. You would have to replace the transparent part of your current jig. Less room for error.

But you re doing fine with your own method, and you will be finished before they send you the bushing. Get it anyway for future use.

Biagio

· #13 · 9 mo ago

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The simplest type (often supplied with the router) would look something like this, but there are much more sophisticated versions available. For your purposes, this one would do.

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domi125

Discussion Starter · #14 · 9 mo ago

Biagio said:
View attachment 402405

The simplest type (often supplied with the router) would look something like this, but there are much more sophisticated versions available. For your purposes, this one would do.

Thanks Biagio, I will call them to see if they have one but I don’t see it listed on their website.

As you said, It is going to be a part for future use anyway; I‘ll begin real work tomorrow.

domi125

Discussion Starter · #15 · 9 mo ago

Thanks Oscar

domi125

Discussion Starter · #16 · 9 mo ago

This is my progress so far.

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jw2170

· #17 · 9 mo ago

I think you have the hang of it........

Biagio

· #18 · 9 mo ago

Very crisp mortises. Looking good.

domi125

Discussion Starter · #19 · 9 mo ago

Alignement good

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jw2170

· #20 · 9 mo ago

Good result, Domi...

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