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Most useful location for scales on a router table
I have this router table which is almost identical to the Charnwood W014
It comes with two adhesive scales which are pictured in two different locations and could also actually be added to the top of each side of the fence. I assumed that they would be most useful for adjusting the fence so that it is square to the table edge but there is no recess in the table for them so it seems to be left up to the user. Perhaps they really aren't that useful as the cutter is circular and it's more important that the fence is straight and fixed? Maybe they would be more useful when using the mitre gauge or a coping sled?
Does anyone have any advice on where these would be most useful? I will mostly be routing rabbets, tenons, grooves etc and am unlikely to be doing much profiling / moulding. I also plan on jointing small boards with an offset outfeed fence
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It comes with two adhesive scales which are pictured in two different locations and could also actually be added to the top of each side of the fence. I assumed that they would be most useful for adjusting the fence so that it is square to the table edge but there is no recess in the table for them so it seems to be left up to the user. Perhaps they really aren't that useful as the cutter is circular and it's more important that the fence is straight and fixed? Maybe they would be more useful when using the mitre gauge or a coping sled?
Does anyone have any advice on where these would be most useful? I will mostly be routing rabbets, tenons, grooves etc and am unlikely to be doing much profiling / moulding. I also plan on jointing small boards with an offset outfeed fence
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Thinking it over, I think the scale is only useful if one end of the fence is fixed, so it becomes a fulcrum. Then you can place the scale into a slight mortise on the other end. It doesn't really matter what the markings are, because it is the face of the fence being even with the edge of the cutter that is what you want to note. Where that falls on your scale varies with the width of the cutter. With the left end of the fence fixed on a peg (for example), it is very easy to adjust the fence precisely again and again.
What makes this single scale valuable is That you can set it for multiple passes on the same piece. You start with shallow cut or cuts until you reach the final pass. Note that mark on the scale, and you can then repeat the cut on any number of pieces and they will all match. Precision setting the fence in that case really counts.
With something like milling picture frame material with a tall bit set, you can cut the pieces a little over length, then mill each piece, one at a time, yet get a good match. Repeatability is a big deal.
Attached is a picture of the Rockler table saw jig. It is similar to what I'm describing in that it is a fulcrum device, but with the arc marked in degrees. Once you set it to 90 degrees to the fence, the angles are precise and repeatable. That is the most useful thing about a fulcrum mounted fence.
Last item. How do you locate and make the fulcrum? You would want to mark the center of the underside of your fence, then use a drill press to drill, say, a quarter inch hole. Then drill a hole near the edge of your router table. Insert a 1/4 aluminum or steel peg and mount the fence on that peg. Voila, you now have a fulcrum-mounted fence. Use a straight edge and mortising bit to cut a very slight groove the exact width of your measuring scale (a steel ruler for example) so the scale is just slightly below level with the table top. If it's a printed scale, that will keep the fence from scraping the markings off. If it's engraved, you can make it perfectly level. I don't think it would matter much if it's parallel to the edge. Here's a possible choice: https://www.amazon.com/Officemate-C...626799953&sprefix=steel+ruler,aps,236&sr=8-24
Here's the table saw sled so you can picture this idea.
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What makes this single scale valuable is That you can set it for multiple passes on the same piece. You start with shallow cut or cuts until you reach the final pass. Note that mark on the scale, and you can then repeat the cut on any number of pieces and they will all match. Precision setting the fence in that case really counts.
With something like milling picture frame material with a tall bit set, you can cut the pieces a little over length, then mill each piece, one at a time, yet get a good match. Repeatability is a big deal.
Attached is a picture of the Rockler table saw jig. It is similar to what I'm describing in that it is a fulcrum device, but with the arc marked in degrees. Once you set it to 90 degrees to the fence, the angles are precise and repeatable. That is the most useful thing about a fulcrum mounted fence.
Last item. How do you locate and make the fulcrum? You would want to mark the center of the underside of your fence, then use a drill press to drill, say, a quarter inch hole. Then drill a hole near the edge of your router table. Insert a 1/4 aluminum or steel peg and mount the fence on that peg. Voila, you now have a fulcrum-mounted fence. Use a straight edge and mortising bit to cut a very slight groove the exact width of your measuring scale (a steel ruler for example) so the scale is just slightly below level with the table top. If it's a printed scale, that will keep the fence from scraping the markings off. If it's engraved, you can make it perfectly level. I don't think it would matter much if it's parallel to the edge. Here's a possible choice: https://www.amazon.com/Officemate-C...626799953&sprefix=steel+ruler,aps,236&sr=8-24
Here's the table saw sled so you can picture this idea.
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
